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Old 04-08-2021, 03:14 PM   #1
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Black tank leaking from top? Cup from install found at top.

Fleetwood bounder 35k 2014.
I’ve discussed previously that my dometic flush system no longer goes to green. We can flush if we leave it on then turn it off and it gives us enough vacuum for flushing”.
My wife said, “ put the fans on in the bathrooms” that only seemed to draw the smell.
Bingo, at our latest stop I saw a small drip puddle out back, smelled like toilet.
As I put my hand above the black tank there was a “mega” drink cup left there/put there when tank was raised. It’s been “ banging around up there since new”. Not metal nor plastic but also not soft enough to disintegrate.
6 years later Do I let Fleetwood customer service know this as I now have a leak in that area?
Thoughts on cup and looks like tank needs to come down to get repair done?
Thanks in advance
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:04 PM   #2
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I have a '16 35K. A few months after my warranty was up I found a leak from above the LR window. I diagnosed it and found the install instructions for the window. There is supposed to be a bead of caulk above the window before installation to prevent leaking from the top. I brought this to Fleetwood/REV's attention and asked them if they would repair the problem under warranty as it had been leaking from day one and there was mold under the window.

They said no I should have found it while under warranty

My problem is now a sticky in this forum and can be found here if you want to read more about it.

Good luck getting them to do anything with your 7-8 year old issue and do let us know what they say.
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:56 AM   #3
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Where’s sealand dometic pump? Above black tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsportys View Post
Fleetwood bounder 35k 2014.
I’ve discussed previously that my dometic flush system no longer goes to green. We can flush if we leave it on then turn it off and it gives us enough vacuum for flushing”.
My wife said, “ put the fans on in the bathrooms” that only seemed to draw the smell.
Bingo, at our latest stop I saw a small drip puddle out back, smelled like toilet.
As I put my hand above the black tank there was a “mega” drink cup left there/put there when tank was raised. It’s been “ banging around up there since new”. Not metal nor plastic but also not soft enough to disintegrate.
6 years later Do I let Fleetwood customer service know this as I now have a leak in that area?
Thoughts on cup and looks like tank needs to come down to get repair done?
Thanks in advance
I guess I should have enunciated about the dometic seal and pump. I know I’ll go round and round with Fleetwood not going there.
BUT , if sealand pump not turning green and fully sealing ( turned green once this morning!!!) ( just keeps pumping and we can still flush)
Does the black tank have to come down to do this leak repair, assuming leak coming from dometic sealand pump?
Any advice appreciated
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Old 04-09-2021, 08:22 AM   #4
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Sounds like you most likely have a bellows issue, the plastic bellows most likely has split somewhere and that is the leak source and also why the pump does not function at full efficiency. The vacuum pump is in a very inaccessible spot on your coach but the vacuflush pump unit itself should be mounted on floor next to the tank. If you do have to work on it make sure you also get the flapper valves to put in the pump when it's out. Making sure the pump is solidly mounted to the floor on reinstallation will go a long way to reducing the noise level the pump makes. I did a pump replacement on my 2017 Bounder a long time ago but that pump is in a different location than a 2014 is.
also to the OP, I don't understand what you mean when you say the "tank was raised"?
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Old 04-09-2021, 12:21 PM   #5
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I never took my 15 Discovery back to Fleetwood.
1. Nearest repair facility 100 miles.
2. Dealer bought it from 1000 miles.
3. Didn't want to schedule service weeks out.
4. Didn't want to drive it and the car multiple times. Fuel and time lost.
5. Didn't want a rookie or oil change trained employee to work on it.
6. Didn't want poor workmanship.
7. Didn't want to wait weeks so they could work it in their schedule.
7. WANTED THE JOB DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, GUESS WHO CAN DO THAT.........
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Old Yesterday, 04:59 AM   #6
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Yeah I would agree with z3406. I read the problem being the tank leaking because of the cup. But if the leak is at the pump it most likely is the bellows.
Have you done ANY maintenance to the Vacuflush system? Such as replace the duckbills? replace the bellows? Condition the seals? I recall the life of the duckbills is about 2 years. Not sure of the life of the bellows. My bellows lasted 4 years until it cracked and was leaking. I noticed it during a duckbill changed and replaced it also.
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Old Yesterday, 05:11 AM   #7
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Yes if accessible I do the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by z3406 View Post
Sounds like you most likely have a bellows issue, the plastic bellows most likely has split somewhere and that is the leak source and also why the pump does not function at full efficiency. The vacuum pump is in a very inaccessible spot on your coach but the vacuflush pump unit itself should be mounted on floor next to the tank. If you do have to work on it make sure you also get the flapper valves to put in the pump when it's out. Making sure the pump is solidly mounted to the floor on reinstallation will go a long way to reducing the noise level the pump makes. I did a pump replacement on my 2017 Bounder a long time ago but that pump is in a different location than a 2014 is.
also to the OP, I don't understand what you mean when you say the "tank was raised"?
“Tank was raised” the leak is coming from above the tank, looking at rv from rear, on the left side drips. I mean by that, when installed the black tank was raised ( unless that tank back there is both grey and black divided) and held in place by metal straps and bolts on both sides of the tank. My comment on the cup was that someone, on purpose during install left that cup up there to roll around. Only will come out if destroyed.
So, the vacuum pump and vacuflush pump are two different units. I’m assuming tank has to be dropped to access one or both units?
Until I get home I can’t go under and do repairs, just inconvenience now having to put pump on and off to flush.
Thanks for advice, appreciated
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Old Yesterday, 08:41 AM   #8
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There is a motor, bellows and two duckbill valves built into a unit that is rebuildable. The tank does not have to be removed to work on the pump unit. If you have a leak coming from above the tank it is most likely the seal on the bottom of the rear toilet. The duckbill valves are one way valves that maintain the vacuum in the pump and black water plumbing between flushes. I had a rear toilet flange seal leak on my 2014 35K. Look behind the toilets there should be a owners manual for the Vacuflush system there in a bag attached to the toilet with a rubber band.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...g&action=click
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Old Today, 06:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z3406 View Post
There is a motor, bellows and two duckbill valves built into a unit that is rebuildable. The tank does not have to be removed to work on the pump unit. If you have a leak coming from above the tank it is most likely the seal on the bottom of the rear toilet. The duckbill valves are one way valves that maintain the vacuum in the pump and black water plumbing between flushes. I had a rear toilet flange seal leak on my 2014 35K. Look behind the toilets there should be a owners manual for the Vacuflush system there in a bag attached to the toilet with a rubber band.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...g&action=click
See bold print:
There is a motor, bellows and two duckbill valves built into a unit that is rebuildable. (THE MOTOR, BELLOWS ARE ACCESSIBLE WHERE? BELOW THE BACK TOILET TANK? AS STATED IN FOLLOWING SENTENCE) THE tank does not have to be removed to work on the pump unit. If you have a leak coming from above the tank it is most likely the seal on the bottom of the rear toilet. The duckbill valves are one way valves that maintain the vacuum in the pump and black water plumbing between flushes. (DUCKBILL VALVES ARE PROBABLY THE CULPRIT, THESE ARE ACCESSIBLE SPECIFICALLY WHERE?) I had a rear toilet flange seal leak (SEALS BOTH GOOD NOT LOSING WATER EITHER TANK.)on my 2014 35K. Look behind the toilets there should be a owners manual for the Vacuflush system there in a bag attached to the toilet with a rubber band. (NO BAG IN EITHER TOILET. I’LL CHECK ALL THE ORIGINAL MANUALS.)
Thanks for taking the time.....
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Old Today, 06:56 AM   #10
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Maintenance ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
Yeah I would agree with z3406. I read the problem being the tank leaking because of the cup. But if the leak is at the pump it most likely is the bellows.
Have you done ANY maintenance to the Vacuflush system? Such as replace the duckbills? replace the bellows? Condition the seals? I recall the life of the duckbills is about 2 years. Not sure of the life of the bellows. My bellows lasted 4 years until it cracked and was leaking. I noticed it during a duckbill changed and replaced it also.
When you buy your new motor home and get a 40 minute walk around, no one says you have to do maintenance on the bellows, duckbills and seals every two years. So no, aside from keeping seals / ball clean in toilets nothing else done. You never realize that unlike a home toilet you’d have to completely disassemble a toilet to look for / maintain bellows etc.
don’t mind doing work if I know exactly where how to access.
Is it located behind “wall” on utilities access panel? Is it located below rear toilet and you have to disassemble and take out rear Toilet and replace bellows that way?
Appreciate the comments
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