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Old 06-16-2020, 10:37 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
2 different issues. The heat pump is 120v and the furnace is 12v.
I have a 35K so no help to you where mine is.
The 12v ground would be followed from the house batteries negative terminal to the frame of the RV.
The 120v has a neutral bus bar in the breaker panel and then goes to the transfer switch.
If you don't KNOW electrical systems I highly recommend you get a qualified person to troubleshoot. A few wrong things done can easily get you killed.
Thanks for the thoughts. As to the heat pump, the system is 120v but the controls are 12v. I am relatively confident the issues are contained to the 12v as the symptoms are identical no matter which system activates. I was also able to replicate it for a short period by switching on other lights, that particular aspect has since stopped.

I won’t be digging any deeper then cleaning up the grounds to see if that fixes the problem. After that it becomes a warranty issue. I understand 120v systems and am comfortable working with it. 12v systems with circuit boards and computer controls are well beyond my comfort level. The next problem is getting a service appointment. My dealer is not answering emails at this point
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:35 PM   #16
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First Damage

Well we have our first damage and figured we should share as the issue is unique to the 35P floorplan.

We travelled a very bumpy road today. We got to the campground and were having a very smooth set up right up until I put out the galley slide. The pantry door, which is hidden behind the fridge during travel had come open, unbeknownst to us. As I put the slide out the cupboard door caught the trim and ripped the whole right side trim piece off of the slideout.

The trim pulled right off the screws so I have to try and figure out how to delaminate the two layers so I can access the holes, clean them up and add washers before re-gluing everything. Any advise on how to cleanly seperate the two layers without breaking the wood is appreciated!
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:08 PM   #17
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Well we have our first damage and figured we should share as the issue is unique to the 35P floorplan.

We travelled a very bumpy road today. We got to the campground and were having a very smooth set up right up until I put out the galley slide. The pantry door, which is hidden behind the fridge during travel had come open, unbeknownst to us. As I put the slide out the cupboard door caught the trim and ripped the whole right side trim piece off of the slideout.

The trim pulled right off the screws so I have to try and figure out how to delaminate the two layers so I can access the holes, clean them up and add washers before re-gluing everything. Any advise on how to cleanly seperate the two layers without breaking the wood is appreciated!
Yikes! Sorry to hear about this. Thanks for the heads up. Definitely will check that before each set-up.

Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 07-31-2020, 03:18 PM   #18
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Passenger Side Power

I am almost always convinced, people who design RVís have never actually lived in them. Has anyone figured out a way to bring 110v power to an outdoor location on the Passenger side?

I am looking to figure out some kind of power on the outdoor ďlivingĒ side of the RV. Currently I run an extension cord under the rig either from the post if it is close enough or from the plug in the wet bay. It amazes me that they build a unit like this and donít give you easy access to power where you are most likely to need it.

The easiest solution I see is to simply run an extension cord from behind the TV. Because I have drawers instead of a stove I have easy access to the TVís plug and could just drop a short extension cord but that only gives me power when I have the cabinet open.

The easiest cabinet to mount a proper outlet in would be the battery compartment. If I could pull a 110 line from somewhere then I could put an outdoor plug inside the cabinet. The advantage to that location is I donít have to put a grommet in the floor to run cables through.

Any thoughts or solutions are welcome.
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Old 07-31-2020, 06:34 PM   #19
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I am almost always convinced, people who design RVís have never actually lived in them. Has anyone figured out a way to bring 110v power to an outdoor location on the Passenger side?

I am looking to figure out some kind of power on the outdoor ďlivingĒ side of the RV. Currently I run an extension cord under the rig either from the post if it is close enough or from the plug in the wet bay. It amazes me that they build a unit like this and donít give you easy access to power where you are most likely to need it.

The easiest solution I see is to simply run an extension cord from behind the TV. Because I have drawers instead of a stove I have easy access to the TVís plug and could just drop a short extension cord but that only gives me power when I have the cabinet open.

The easiest cabinet to mount a proper outlet in would be the battery compartment. If I could pull a 110 line from somewhere then I could put an outdoor plug inside the cabinet. The advantage to that location is I donít have to put a grommet in the floor to run cables through.

Any thoughts or solutions are welcome.
I thought it was a little strange as well that they put power in the utility bay but not on the passenger side, where your patio pad would be. Hasn't bothered me too much, as I'm such a long-term camper as opposed to a weekender, but I understand why you might want it there.

Just a thought: could you run off the power in the utility bay, run your wire (or extension cord) to the left one bay with a simple hole to drill, and then go up and over the drive shaft using the full pass-through storage bay? Once on the other side, you could route to anywhere.

Personally, I'm thinking about doing something like this simply for my impact driver. I keep all of my tools in front right bay, right next to the door, and I'd like to be able to keep my batteries charged without having to bring them into the cabin. Just something that I'll get around to sooner or later.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:00 AM   #20
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Hey Timmy,

That is pretty much the direction I was leaning towards after digging around a bit last night. All of the slideouts on this rig make dropping a line from above seem rather daunting. The challenge is deciding which bay to come to. If I go to the battery bay I will have to drill a hole in the wall to get the line through. Or go to the inverter bay which is pass through but will need a grommet in the plastic floor to pass cords through.

So far the inverter bay is my probable destination because that is where I keep the air compressor. It would be nice to have a constant power source to it and not require full removal from the bay just to blow up a floaty. Then, of course, I will have to add a 50í hose for airing the tires
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