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Old 06-16-2020, 10:37 PM   #15
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2 different issues. The heat pump is 120v and the furnace is 12v.
I have a 35K so no help to you where mine is.
The 12v ground would be followed from the house batteries negative terminal to the frame of the RV.
The 120v has a neutral bus bar in the breaker panel and then goes to the transfer switch.
If you don't KNOW electrical systems I highly recommend you get a qualified person to troubleshoot. A few wrong things done can easily get you killed.
Thanks for the thoughts. As to the heat pump, the system is 120v but the controls are 12v. I am relatively confident the issues are contained to the 12v as the symptoms are identical no matter which system activates. I was also able to replicate it for a short period by switching on other lights, that particular aspect has since stopped.

I won’t be digging any deeper then cleaning up the grounds to see if that fixes the problem. After that it becomes a warranty issue. I understand 120v systems and am comfortable working with it. 12v systems with circuit boards and computer controls are well beyond my comfort level. The next problem is getting a service appointment. My dealer is not answering emails at this point
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:35 PM   #16
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First Damage

Well we have our first damage and figured we should share as the issue is unique to the 35P floorplan.

We travelled a very bumpy road today. We got to the campground and were having a very smooth set up right up until I put out the galley slide. The pantry door, which is hidden behind the fridge during travel had come open, unbeknownst to us. As I put the slide out the cupboard door caught the trim and ripped the whole right side trim piece off of the slideout.

The trim pulled right off the screws so I have to try and figure out how to delaminate the two layers so I can access the holes, clean them up and add washers before re-gluing everything. Any advise on how to cleanly seperate the two layers without breaking the wood is appreciated!
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:08 PM   #17
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Well we have our first damage and figured we should share as the issue is unique to the 35P floorplan.

We travelled a very bumpy road today. We got to the campground and were having a very smooth set up right up until I put out the galley slide. The pantry door, which is hidden behind the fridge during travel had come open, unbeknownst to us. As I put the slide out the cupboard door caught the trim and ripped the whole right side trim piece off of the slideout.

The trim pulled right off the screws so I have to try and figure out how to delaminate the two layers so I can access the holes, clean them up and add washers before re-gluing everything. Any advise on how to cleanly seperate the two layers without breaking the wood is appreciated!
Yikes! Sorry to hear about this. Thanks for the heads up. Definitely will check that before each set-up.

Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 07-31-2020, 03:18 PM   #18
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Passenger Side Power

I am almost always convinced, people who design RV’s have never actually lived in them. Has anyone figured out a way to bring 110v power to an outdoor location on the Passenger side?

I am looking to figure out some kind of power on the outdoor “living” side of the RV. Currently I run an extension cord under the rig either from the post if it is close enough or from the plug in the wet bay. It amazes me that they build a unit like this and don’t give you easy access to power where you are most likely to need it.

The easiest solution I see is to simply run an extension cord from behind the TV. Because I have drawers instead of a stove I have easy access to the TV’s plug and could just drop a short extension cord but that only gives me power when I have the cabinet open.

The easiest cabinet to mount a proper outlet in would be the battery compartment. If I could pull a 110 line from somewhere then I could put an outdoor plug inside the cabinet. The advantage to that location is I don’t have to put a grommet in the floor to run cables through.

Any thoughts or solutions are welcome.
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Old 07-31-2020, 06:34 PM   #19
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I am almost always convinced, people who design RV’s have never actually lived in them. Has anyone figured out a way to bring 110v power to an outdoor location on the Passenger side?

I am looking to figure out some kind of power on the outdoor “living” side of the RV. Currently I run an extension cord under the rig either from the post if it is close enough or from the plug in the wet bay. It amazes me that they build a unit like this and don’t give you easy access to power where you are most likely to need it.

The easiest solution I see is to simply run an extension cord from behind the TV. Because I have drawers instead of a stove I have easy access to the TV’s plug and could just drop a short extension cord but that only gives me power when I have the cabinet open.

The easiest cabinet to mount a proper outlet in would be the battery compartment. If I could pull a 110 line from somewhere then I could put an outdoor plug inside the cabinet. The advantage to that location is I don’t have to put a grommet in the floor to run cables through.

Any thoughts or solutions are welcome.
I thought it was a little strange as well that they put power in the utility bay but not on the passenger side, where your patio pad would be. Hasn't bothered me too much, as I'm such a long-term camper as opposed to a weekender, but I understand why you might want it there.

Just a thought: could you run off the power in the utility bay, run your wire (or extension cord) to the left one bay with a simple hole to drill, and then go up and over the drive shaft using the full pass-through storage bay? Once on the other side, you could route to anywhere.

Personally, I'm thinking about doing something like this simply for my impact driver. I keep all of my tools in front right bay, right next to the door, and I'd like to be able to keep my batteries charged without having to bring them into the cabin. Just something that I'll get around to sooner or later.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:00 AM   #20
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Hey Timmy,

That is pretty much the direction I was leaning towards after digging around a bit last night. All of the slideouts on this rig make dropping a line from above seem rather daunting. The challenge is deciding which bay to come to. If I go to the battery bay I will have to drill a hole in the wall to get the line through. Or go to the inverter bay which is pass through but will need a grommet in the plastic floor to pass cords through.

So far the inverter bay is my probable destination because that is where I keep the air compressor. It would be nice to have a constant power source to it and not require full removal from the bay just to blow up a floaty. Then, of course, I will have to add a 50’ hose for airing the tires
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Old 05-21-2021, 03:48 PM   #21
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Good Afternoon,

Has anyone fromthe 35P group happened to order plumbing schematics from REV. My bathroom sink has alost no water pressure. I get good pressure though at the washing machine and shower. I am guessing the lines are kinked somewhere. I am just not sure where I need to go hunting to find the problem.
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Old 05-21-2021, 04:52 PM   #22
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Good Afternoon,

Has anyone fromthe 35P group happened to order plumbing schematics from REV. My bathroom sink has alost no water pressure. I get good pressure though at the washing machine and shower. I am guessing the lines are kinked somewhere. I am just not sure where I need to go hunting to find the problem.
I have not, but the sliding drawers to the right of the vanity come out easily enough and that gives a pretty good look at the water lines. Maybe that could get you a start?
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Old 05-22-2021, 07:12 AM   #23
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Yep, looked there and could not see anything, pipes were in nice clean runs. It is weird that both hot and cold are impacted makes me wonder if the pipes are getting crushed at some point
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Old 05-22-2021, 08:06 AM   #24
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Yep, looked there and could not see anything, pipes were in nice clean runs. It is weird that both hot and cold are impacted makes me wonder if the pipes are getting crushed at some point
My MIL had a similar problem at her house. We thought the line was plugged because she had great pressure elsewhere. I finally took off the faucet and discovered that had plugged up with sediment. Have you tried that before doing the really hard stuff?
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Old 05-22-2021, 11:00 AM   #25
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My MIL had a similar problem at her house. We thought the line was plugged because she had great pressure elsewhere. I finally took off the faucet and discovered that had plugged up with sediment. Have you tried that before doing the really hard stuff?
i think that is wise advise. i was pondering after my last post and if i remember correctly the lines for the bathroom come up the slide arm closest to the rear. From there they would likely come forward, hitting the bathroom sink first, then the washing machine and finally the shower. Since the other appliaces have no issues that would lead me to believe the problem is somewhere between the main line and the outlet.
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Old 08-08-2021, 11:06 AM   #26
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Sub-Freezing Camping

Good Day,

Wondering if any of you have done any sub-freezing camping in the 35P. If so what did you do to protect the tanks and water lines?

Looking at the rig, two sets of waterlines being completely exposed on the slideout arms appear to create a fairly challenging circumstance.

We have never done any winter camping but this year we pushed a huge chunk of our vacation time out into October/November hoping that the border would be open and we could go South. Our fingers are still crossed but the rising Covid numbers are not giving us a warm and fuzzy feeling. Weather in Southern Ontario fluctuates quite a bit at that time of year. Most days will be above freezing but nights will drop below the freeze line with the possibility of consecutive freezing days.

Any thoughts are welcome. Some of my considerations include:
- Putting an electric space heater in the wet bay to assist in adding warmth
- Building foam insulating wraps to close off each of the slideout entry points and the two arms the water lines run up
- heat tape wrapped around the two exposed water lines (with/without the foam insulation?!?)

I know many wrapp or enclose the entire bottom of the unit and then put a 100 watt bulb below to provide heat but that will not be a realistic option for us.
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Old 08-08-2021, 12:14 PM   #27
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Good Day,

Wondering if any of you have done any sub-freezing camping in the 35P. If so what did you do to protect the tanks and water lines?

Looking at the rig, two sets of waterlines being completely exposed on the slideout arms appear to create a fairly challenging circumstance.

We have never done any winter camping but this year we pushed a huge chunk of our vacation time out into October/November hoping that the border would be open and we could go South. Our fingers are still crossed but the rising Covid numbers are not giving us a warm and fuzzy feeling. Weather in Southern Ontario fluctuates quite a bit at that time of year. Most days will be above freezing but nights will drop below the freeze line with the possibility of consecutive freezing days.

Any thoughts are welcome. Some of my considerations include:
- Putting an electric space heater in the wet bay to assist in adding warmth
- Building foam insulating wraps to close off each of the slideout entry points and the two arms the water lines run up
- heat tape wrapped around the two exposed water lines (with/without the foam insulation?!?)

I know many wrapp or enclose the entire bottom of the unit and then put a 100 watt bulb below to provide heat but that will not be a realistic option for us.

Hey, Gris. Hope things are well!

We have had a few nights where the temp dropped well below the freezing point. We indeed put space heaters in the two relevant bays (water tank and water control system). We also put remote thermometer sensors in each bay with the master unit right by my bedside, so I could wake up in the middle of the night and press the light button on it and see what the temps were in each bay. Only had to worry about this for a few days but it did very well and the bays themselves never got into any danger at all. IIRC, one of them was actually warmer than I had intended so I had to dial down the space heater the next night.

This is pretty similar to what I use. I think it's "this year's model". Hope this helps.

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Old 08-08-2021, 01:31 PM   #28
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Exposed Lines

TimmyB - Good to hear from you. Hopefully you are having a good season so far.

Did you do anything about the exposed lines on the slideout arms? Or just hope enough heat migrated along them?
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