Pace Arrow: Can the Pace Arrow Handle the Mountains?????

[gt350ed]

We have the same "36B" as yours, except that it is a 2000 and does NOT have "Banks" power. We have been RVing in western Colorado for 40 years. The last 5 years with this 2000 Pace Arrow Vision gasser. Contrary to TriMoot's opinion, we have no problem driving the route between Durango and Ouray by way of Silverton. This includes the Million Dollar Highway. Just go slow. You'll have no choice. And it's the most beautiful drive you'll ever experience. Doing it in a motorhome is the only way. Nothing better than having your mountain cabin with you.😁

[navyjoe]

If you really want a view and test your driving skills try the Moki Dugway


https://www.utahscanyoncountry.com/T...ah-Highway-261

[navyjoe]

PS at the bottom is Goosenecks state park. Best $5 youll ever spend!





https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/goosenecks/

[TriMoot]

No way!!! Yikes!

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by Craig1960

Back when I was still racing I hauled a 24' enclosed trailer through the rockies several times with my 94 Pace Arrow with the 460 and no Banks system. Going up a few of the hills was slow but we always made it. Going down I would try to hit the top as slow as I could and let it pick up speed as I went and did the same as D Gardiner to scrub some off.

To be honest I think my 460 pulled the hills better then my V10 did.

Sounds like I'll be fine.

[CaptronNZ]

OK lots of decent advice so far.

I've been running a 34' Fleetwood Bounder for a few years mostly in or around the Rocky Mountains.

First of all you did not clarify which Banks system you have. Is this the RV headers or the Turbo? Both potentially increase the power to over 300HP. More energy means more heat and more heat means keep your cooling system clean, especially at altitude where the air is substantially thinner.
Its hard to add another electric pusher fan but cam help.
I don't have any banks kits and I can still overheat at altitude when hot outside. I added a transmission cooler and a thermostatically controlled high volume fan for the cooler. Its located so that it doesn't add heat to radiator air intake.

Headers: Make sure they are wrapped with high temp header cloth to lower the heat radiation on climbs. Otherwise expect melted wires and fuel issues.

Turbo: Usually comes with all the requirements but also runs VERY hot.

Downhill: & Avoiding a runaway.
My biggest issues beyond the rad overheating was going down long steep sections at altitude. The beast is heavy and pushed downhill like a skier.The 460 only helps a little to reduce the acceleration.
So keep the speed down, don't over rev and NEVER use your brakes continuously (Emergency excepted).
You apply solid pressure to significantly reduce the speed, typically only for a few seconds (5-10), use the engine as able to try to keep speed down, (20mph & 4 ways on), let the brakes cool as long as possible, repeat. Pull over for cooling if you feel the brakes are getting too hot.

Hope this helps.

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by CaptronNZ

OK lots of decent advice so far.

I've been running a 34' Fleetwood Bounder for a few years mostly in or around the Rocky Mountains.

First of all you did not clarify which Banks system you have. Is this the RV headers or the Turbo? Both potentially increase the power to over 300HP. More energy means more heat and more heat means keep your cooling system clean, especially at altitude where the air is substantially thinner.
Its hard to add another electric pusher fan but cam help.
I don't have any banks kits and I can still overheat at altitude when hot outside. I added a transmission cooler and a thermostatically controlled high volume fan for the cooler. Its located so that it doesn't add heat to radiator air intake.

Headers: Make sure they are wrapped with high temp header cloth to lower the heat radiation on climbs. Otherwise expect melted wires and fuel issues.

Turbo: Usually comes with all the requirements but also runs VERY hot.

Downhill: & Avoiding a runaway.
My biggest issues beyond the rad overheating was going down long steep sections at altitude. The beast is heavy and pushed downhill like a skier.The 460 only helps a little to reduce the acceleration.
So keep the speed down, don't over rev and NEVER use your brakes continuously (Emergency excepted).
You apply solid pressure to significantly reduce the speed, typically only for a few seconds (5-10), use the engine as able to try to keep speed down, (20mph & 4 ways on), let the brakes cool as long as possible, repeat. Pull over for cooling if you feel the brakes are getting too hot.

Hope this helps.

Excellent advice, my RV has a turbo that kicks in and gives a good boost when going uphill. I also have a transmission cooler. Can you tell me gear you usually go down to as in 2nd or 1st when going downhill and how high do your RPM's get? I really appreciate the advice

[CaptronNZ]

Excellent Question and potentially life saving.

There has to be a lot of common sense involved here.

Personally I never let the RPM go over 4,000 in the 460; 3500 is better.

Once it gets up to around 3500 I begin to take measures in a steep long downhill. When you push hard on the brakes, I try to get the RPM down to where I can gear down without over-revving, then let that slow me even more. Speed is a matter of RPM in this instance.
First gear means you have no other alternative.

Sadly the Ford Gearbox has a 2nd to 3rd big jump that's not appreciated on a heavy vehicle like this when its trying to slow down so be careful.

I have considered the Turbo but it made me cost sensitive as did the headers. I like the latter because there are no moving parts and the system they developed was specific for this size of RV

Good luck

[Qstaar17]

Originally Posted by CaptronNZ

Excellent Question and potentially life saving.

There has to be a lot of common sense involved here.

Personally I never let the RPM go over 4,000 in the 460; 3500 is better.

Once it gets up to around 3500 I begin to take measures in a steep long downhill. When you push hard on the brakes, I try to get the RPM down to where I can gear down without over-revving, then let that slow me even more. Speed is a matter of RPM in this instance.
First gear means you have no other alternative.

Sadly the Ford Gearbox has a 2nd to 3rd big jump that's not appreciated on a heavy vehicle like this when its trying to slow down so be careful.

I have considered the Turbo but it made me cost sensitive as did the headers. I like the latter because there are no moving parts and the system they developed was specific for this size of RV

Good luck

Thanks, I was hoping someone would address the RPMs.