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08-22-2011, 05:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 168
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Changing out Batteries
I am picking up my new batteries for the coach on Thursday. Plan was to change them out while camping this weekend. I am not the greatest mechanic but thought if I take it slow and steady I can get the job done correctly and learn a few things.
Wanted to get some advise from the experts out there on this process. Are there any watch outs for this? I am taking out 4 Workhorse and putting in 4 Trojan T-125 Plus.
I will try and do a search on this topic also.
Thanks
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Mike Gosselin
2007 Fleetwood Discovery 39S
Toad- 2013 Ford Explorer
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08-22-2011, 05:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 3,595
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Label EVERY wire and make a drawing of where it attaches. AND.......pay attention to polarity of all the battery posts. Don't assume you'll remember where the wires go.
Some A/C units use 12 volts for the thermostat.......when you disconnect the batteries you may lose the A/C.Hope it'snot too hot where you're camping.
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KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
2013 Jeep Rubicon JK Unlimited
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08-22-2011, 05:44 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 8,638
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Draw a diagram where ever wire goes just in case and how they are positioned.
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2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
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08-22-2011, 05:50 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bluff Dale, TX
Posts: 624
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Easier to take a picture before you start.
The batteries will not be fully charged when you install them. Do not install new batteries and start draining them down. First thing you want to do is charge them. Never let them get below 12.1 volts and never leave them partially depleated unless they are in use.
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Most RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
2000 National Sea Breeze F53
1998 CRV Toad
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08-22-2011, 06:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,499
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Hook up the positive (+) first and then ground (-) last so you will have less chance of shorting your new batteries to ground. I recommend you fully connect one battery then check to see if it works. Followed by disconnecting that ground and hooking up both batteries - grounds last and retest. Also, when you get to connecting the grounds (-) up, touch the chassis ground wire to the (-) battery post in such a way that you can pull/drop it free if there is a loud bang and flash. If there is a flash/bang go get help in figuring out what went wrong. Good luck - you can do it.
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Tom and Amy from Northern Virginia.
2000 Allegro 454/Workhorse P32/TST/Crossfire
Life is a DIY project, so own less and live more
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08-22-2011, 07:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Get two small cans of spray paint, One red, one black (Testor's from the hobby and craft shelf is good)
On your existing batteries, the day before.. Spray all the POSITIVE wires red
Spray all the negative black.
Will make it much harder to confuse the wires later.
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Home is where I park it!
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08-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 799
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Unplug from shorepower and don't have the generator running. You don't want to be charging the batteries while disconnecting the old ones and installing the new ones. Turn off the battery disconnect to the house. And wear old clothes.
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2005 Dutch Star 4015
Cummins ISL
2007 Honda CR-V
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08-22-2011, 11:43 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 168
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Thanks for all the info. My plan was to change out one at a time taking a picture with my cell before disconnecting each battery. Is it ok to hook up new battery completely (positive then negative) and then move onto next one? Will new batteries start to charge once I plug back into 50 amp service?
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Mike Gosselin
2007 Fleetwood Discovery 39S
Toad- 2013 Ford Explorer
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08-23-2011, 05:07 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
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For safety's sake, make sure you remove your watch and any rings. you'll only short out on these once and you'll remember for a long time. Otherwise take your time and remember, these batteries are heavy.
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08-23-2011, 05:29 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 86
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I'd seriously consider buying a remote battery fill kit - for three batteries, plus the hand pump (all for about $120), you can keep your batteries topped off and pump directly from a jug of distilled water. The system provides for check valves so you cannot overfill a cell.
Last week there was a fair amount of discussion regarding putting a drop of mineral oil in each cell - I suppose the idea is that the lighter oil will form a barrier to prevent evaporation...but I'm not yet sold on that idea since batteries fart all the time; so they still need to be checked...maybe just less often. Just brought it up for you consideration.
REAL GOOD advice from the previous poster to REMOVE rings and watches BEFORE inserting your sandwich clamps inside the evil battery box.
__________________
USN, Ret. - Dynamax DynaQuest 32XL
'71 BMW 2002, '99 BMW 528i, '90 Porsche C2
...and four Wire Hair Mini Dachshunds
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08-23-2011, 06:29 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgosselin
Thanks for all the info. My plan was to change out one at a time taking a picture with my cell before disconnecting each battery. Is it ok to hook up new battery completely (positive then negative) and then move onto next one? Will new batteries start to charge once I plug back into 50 amp service?
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The batteries are connected together. You should disconnect all negative cables on all batteries and then disconnect the positive cables. When you install the new batteries connect all positive cables to all batteries and then connect the negative cables. It is not a good idea to replace one battery at a time. If only one negative cable is still connected and you are working with a positive cable and the wrench slips or a positive cable falls and hit s the frame you will get an arc like from a welder and can cause major damage. That is why you need to disconnect ALL negative cables first.
Yes, after you install the new batteries and turn on shore power they will start charging.
__________________
2005 Dutch Star 4015
Cummins ISL
2007 Honda CR-V
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08-23-2011, 09:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chalreston, S.C.
Posts: 288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIX
Label EVERY wire and make a drawing of where it attaches. AND.......pay attention to polarity of all the battery posts. Don't assume you'll remember where the wires go.
Some A/C units use 12 volts for the thermostat.......when you disconnect the batteries you may lose the A/C.Hope it'snot too hot where you're camping.
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label each wite and this is the most important part, you will find several small jumper type wires on certain battery posts. Note which battery post and the POSITION of the smaller wires, such as are they on the bottom and sequence of which wire is installed first, second so on. It can make a difference in the connecting sequence. Not a hard job just make sure all the wires go back exactly as removed and in the same order and sequence.
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08-23-2011, 09:39 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 71
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Loads of good tips here that i never thought of.
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08-24-2011, 05:53 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 86
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One more thing; safety glasses are a good call when fooling with the batteries.
__________________
USN, Ret. - Dynamax DynaQuest 32XL
'71 BMW 2002, '99 BMW 528i, '90 Porsche C2
...and four Wire Hair Mini Dachshunds
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