Bounder: Chassis battery issue

[Dennis Dean]

Originally Posted by computerguy

I'm not sure what the problem is at this point. Did you find the BCC troubleshooting doc I recommended above?
FWIW I replaced my chassis battery a few weeks ago because it was shot.
Also, the solenoids discussed earlier get temperamental. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't.
Do the troubleshooting and let us know. FYI, I no longer get notified of any posts I replied in. Had a little disagreement with the admins. So, if you need me send a pm and I'll probably see that before I see the thread.

Thanks CG, i found the web site for my BCC and downloaded the TS tips and diagrams. I may call the manufacture later to discuss. BTW for all i have a RV custom BCC F73-1020 the schematic is clear on the back of the cover plate and Twin was corret it is a BIRD solenoid LOL

[Dennis Dean]

Hello all and thank you for those that are responding, still looking for some guidance/advice.
UPDATE: did everything all suggested including buying a new Chassis battery even tho when they put the old battery on a load tester it check good. it was almost 5 years old from the manufacturer and purchase so i was fine with the replacement.
I had a great conversation with the TECH for my BCC manufacture and we went thru several voltage readings and test. Never could get the BIRD to trigger for AUX start but everything checked out; but that, and to be honest based on his and Twins info, i do not think it was ever at the level to allow a change over. However, just yesterday i went out and my chassis batt was at 11.6VDC and my MAGNUM actually showed FULL CHG and was showing 13.7VDC for house BAT and when i hit the AUX start i heard a click.
Conclusion i think my BCC and MAGNUM are all working fine, but I am still showing Chassis battery drain, and my house batteries rarely reach FULL CHG and are mostly in FLOAT.

My concern at this point is why is my chassis battery suddenly having a draw??? That is where i would appreciate some tips/advice. I am very familiar with electronic/electric and have checked/tested everything i can find or think of and cannot figure out WHY my chassis battery is suddenly having a draw while sitting on my house power source like it has for the past 4 years.

Just for reference, i checked my house batteries and the water level was low in all, filled and tested but did not run an equalization sequence because did not seem they needed it. No cores where exposed and they are 2 years old.

I can go out after a couple of days and my Chassis battery will be around 11.6 to 11.9VDC and NOTHING is on that uses the chassis battery. House batteries show 13.4 to 13.7 and float or FULL CHG. I have only my auto vents on and normal FRIG/TV running but those are all on Shore power and or House battery/inverter.

Any ideas/suggestions from others would be greatly appreciated

[gpounder]

There has to be a load on it somewhere. Use a clamp tester to measure current and make sure it is working.

Even if there was a very small load if your plugged in the you should see a charge. PM me if you want. sometimes better to talk it out.

[LETMGROW]

Disconnect the battery wire from the vehicle alternator. (Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable before doing this)
With the wire off the alternator let the vehicle sit over night and recheck the chassis battery charge level the next day. Slide something over the wire or tape it so it can't fall against something and short the wire out.
A bad diode or rectifier in an alternator can create a voltage draw.
Lynn

[darbyjudy]

On my HR 2017 35K I was having the same problem with the engine battery running down when hooked up to power pole. I would go out and check voltages and they would be ok one day but go the next day and the engine battery would be low. I thought it must be the solenoid in the battery control box so I ordered a new one and installed. It still did it so I made a jumper and installed on the lugs of the solenoid. No problems now. Only think if you are doing any dry camping you need to take the jumper off or you may also run down the engine battery and then you cant start the engine.

[Dennis Dean]

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

Disconnect the battery wire from the vehicle alternator. (Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable before doing this)
With the wire off the alternator let the vehicle sit over night and recheck the chassis battery charge level the next day. Slide something over the wire or tape it so it can't fall against something and short the wire out.
A bad diode or rectifier in an alternator can create a voltage draw.
Lynn

Thanks, I will try this, this coming weekend, i just did not have the time to do it now. I take it you are thinking i may have a diode pack shorting to ground on the alternator side??? My alternator charges everything just fine when running BTW.

[Dennis Dean]

Originally Posted by darbyjudy

On my HR 2017 35K I was having the same problem with the engine battery running down when hooked up to power pole. I would go out and check voltages and they would be ok one day but go the next day and the engine battery would be low. I thought it must be the solenoid in the battery control box so I ordered a new one and installed. It still did it so I made a jumper and installed on the lugs of the solenoid. No problems now. Only think if you are doing any dry camping you need to take the jumper off or you may also run down the engine battery and then you cant start the engine.

Darbyjudy --- this is exactly what the TECH told me to do from the BCC company. He said it will insure the coach battery gets charged from the BCC but to insure i remove it when i travel. I saw in a few other threads people do the same thing, but i still want to try and find where the Chassis battery draw is coming from. Like i posted in the 4 years i have had my coach and parked it at my house on my dedicated shore line i have never had this issue.

Its weird and i cannot figure out where the draw could be happening. Everything else appears to be working as it should. Even my little solar panel is giving me 19 - 20 VDC on my pin 3 in the BCC. That should be passing straight thru to the chassis battery to help insure it stays charged.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Dennis Dean-

I read through your posts, and am not sure of one thing: Is the AUX START solenoid working correctly every time? That is, when you connect a voltmeter across the solenoid and someone presses the AUX START switch, does the voltmeter read zero volts? A dozen times in a row?

You don't even need to have someone use the AUX START switch. You can jumper a 12V source to the solenoid activation lug and make the solenoid close as many times as you want.

On our coach, the solenoid passed this test. This pointed to the activation circuitry, which I replaced to fix the problem.

It helps to track down battery drains, but the ultimate answer for your coach is to fix the cross-charging system.

[Dennis Dean]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Dennis Dean-

I read through your posts, and am not sure of one thing: Is the AUX START solenoid working correctly every time? That is, when you connect a voltmeter across the solenoid and someone presses the AUX START switch, does the voltmeter read zero volts? A dozen times in a row?

So i forgot about this as Twinboat suggested early on. I do not have another person but when my daughter gets home tonight i will do this test. I did try a jumper from lug to lug on the BIRD and i can tell you nothing happened, but my voltages for both House and Chassis are not in range to actually trigger the BIRD from the DASH switch.

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

You don't even need to have someone use the AUX START switch. You can jumper a 12V source to the solenoid activation lug and make the solenoid close as many times as you want.

so i tried this got a little spark on the BIRD and heard a click, but now have ZERO VDC on both lugs of the BIRD, everything else is fine and no FUSE blown?????

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

On our coach, the solenoid passed this test. This pointed to the activation circuitry, which I replaced to fix the problem.

It helps to track down battery drains, but the ultimate answer for your coach is to fix the cross-charging system.

So went out and did some voltage measurements, here are my results:
These are on the BCC
Shore power - normal set up at house
Left side BCC
Chassis lugs both at 12.2VDC
HOUSE lugs at 13.5VDC
BIRD - top lug ZERO, Bottom lug (yellow wire) 12.67VDC
P4 pin 1 - 13.5VDC - pin 2 - 12.8VDC pin 3 (solar) 20.19VDC Pin 10 - 12.9VDC

Shore power unplugged with MAGNUM inverting or NOT the voltages really did not change from above

Engine Running
Left side BCC
Chassis lugs both at 14.3VDC
HOUSE lugs at 12.8VDC
BIRD - top lug ZERO, Bottom lug (yellow wire) 13.5VDC
P4 pin 1 - 12.72VDC - pin 2 - 13.64VDC pin 3 (solar) 20.19VDC
Pin 10 - 13.6VDC PIN 11 with engine running is now at 14.4VDC

I will try the two person test tonight ---- Any ideas with this information?

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Dennis Dean-

I'm not sure you are testing as I suggested, in my admittedly short way:

You can jumper a 12V source to the solenoid activation lug and make the solenoid close as many times as you want.

The purpose of the test is to see if the solenoid opens and closes correctly, multiple times. This is independent of all charging sources and the cross-charging circuitry (IRD or BIRD, as appropriate).

The solenoid activates because the IRD/BIRD or the AUX START switch puts 12V on the activation lug. What you do with this test is to put 12V on that lug, yourself. Then, with the voltmeter in place (one probe on the chassis battery lug, one on the house battery lug), you want to see the voltage go to zero. That's how the solenoid works- when it works.

So, put the voltmeter probes on the chassis and battery lugs. By your description, there will be a difference of a volt or two. Then, with the probes still in place, take a small piece of 16 AWG insulated wire, touch one end to the house battery lug and the other to the solenoid activation lug. Hold it there. This should cause the solenoid contacts to close. The voltmeter should read zero volts. Remove the jumper. Repeat test several times. Each time, the voltmeter should show zero volts. If it fails to go to zero volts, then the solenoid is probably faulty. If the voltage goes to zero every time, then the problem is likely in the cross-charging system (IRD/BIRD).

I usually try and have all the charging sources shut off for this test. It's not exactly necessary, though.

For variety, you can apply the jumper between the chassis battery lug and the solenoid activation lug. The voltage shown on the voltmeter should be zero then, too.

I hope this detail helps.

[mtjct1960]

Need help in finding all filters and relays on a 1991 Fleetwood bounder 454 chev. Trying to avoid dropping fuel tank to get to fuel pump.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by mtjct1960

Need help in finding all filters and relays on a 1991 Fleetwood bounder 454 chev. Trying to avoid dropping fuel tank to get to fuel pump.

Welcome to the forum.
You might have better response if you started a new thread stating your problem and asking questions.
Lynn