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Old 02-27-2017, 12:05 PM   #1
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Computer Guy about, original batteries

I am curious. What were the original battery brand in your coach. I was told mine are suppose to be 4 Trojan AS I? 6 volt 220ah. What I have are 4 U.S. Battery 6 volts 208 ah.
Does anyone else out there have the U.S. Battery brand 208ah in there Bounder? Mine is a 2015 33c.
By the way, your Lithium switch seems fascinating. Your electronics knowledge must be very extensive. It looks like a very professional, clean job that you are doing.
Best of luck!! Lou Camp 50.
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Old 02-27-2017, 02:44 PM   #2
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I found this link on the internet, very informative

Get the Real Facts on U.S. Battery | Trojan Battery Company
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:58 PM   #3
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US Battery is correct as to what I had. Sold first day I listed them.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:42 PM   #4
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Mine came with u s batteries however only two as I don't have a residential fridge.
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
US Battery is correct as to what I had. Sold first day I listed them.
Do you think 4 6volt 208ah are adequate? I have residential frig. I have to turn it off at night if not on shore power or run generator.
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:19 AM   #6
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US Battery is correct as to what I had. Sold first day I listed them.
Forgive my simple questions. I am a rookie when it comes to electronic!
Lou Camp 50
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:42 AM   #7
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Do you think 4 6volt 208ah are adequate? I have residential frig. I have to turn it off at night if not on shore power or run generator.
Lou Camp 50
You came to a good place to learn.
Here's the numbers plain and simple.
208x2= 416 amp hours total. You should never use more than 50% of that number on FLA (flooded lead acid) batteries.
That leaves you a total of 208AH.
The Samsung residential refer with use between 120 and 150 Ah in 24 hour period depending on temperature and how often you open/close the doors and if the ice maker is on, well all bets are off - that option is a electric hog.
My 35K has a parasitic load of ~3.5 amps. 3.5 amps for an hour uses 3.5 AH. Add up ALL your other uses (lights, water pump, TV, satelite, satelite dish, OTA antenna, stereo, charge your iPhone, iPad, laptop, inefficiencies in the inverter, and well, you should be able to go 8-12 hours before you need to do something. Something as in drive the MH, plug into shore power or start the gene. Sure you can choose to do nothing and drain those batts down to say 20% DOD. You'll be replacing batteries every year IMHO if you do that though. Go to 50%, charge it properly and those batts should last 5+ years.
Only you can decide if that is enough.
It might be clearer why I went with 600AH of lithium and 960 watts of solar on the roof.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:45 PM   #8
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Computer Guy, your logic about batteries seems sound. Do I set my EMS, LBCO to 50%? This of course only happens when we are boondocking, which is infrequent. My batteries read between 1.225 and 1.250 on hydrometer, after equalizing and a full charge. Shouldn't fairly new batteries read 1.275 to 1.280?
Thanks for the info!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
You came to a good place to learn.
Here's the numbers plain and simple.
208x2= 416 amp hours total. You should never use more than 50% of that number on FLA (flooded lead acid) batteries.
That leaves you a total of 208AH.
The Samsung residential refer with use between 120 and 150 Ah in 24 hour period depending on temperature and how often you open/close the doors and if the ice maker is on, well all bets are off - that option is a electric hog.
My 35K has a parasitic load of ~3.5 amps. 3.5 amps for an hour uses 3.5 AH. Add up ALL your other uses (lights, water pump, TV, satelite, satelite dish, OTA antenna, stereo, charge your iPhone, iPad, laptop, inefficiencies in the inverter, and well, you should be able to go 8-12 hours before you need to do something. Something as in drive the MH, plug into shore power or start the gene. Sure you can choose to do nothing and drain those batts down to say 20% DOD. You'll be replacing batteries every year IMHO if you do that though. Go to 50%, charge it properly and those batts should last 5+ years.
Only you can decide if that is enough.
It might be clearer why I went with 600AH of lithium and 960 watts of solar on the roof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
You came to a good place to learn.
Here's the numbers plain and simple.
208x2= 416 amp hours total. You should never use more than 50% of that number on FLA (flooded lead acid) batteries.
That leaves you a total of 208AH.
The Samsung residential refer with use between 120 and 150 Ah in 24 hour period depending on temperature and how often you open/close the doors and if the ice maker is on, well all bets are off - that option is a electric hog.
My 35K has a parasitic load of ~3.5 amps. 3.5 amps for an hour uses 3.5 AH. Add up ALL your other uses (lights, water pump, TV, satelite, satelite dish, OTA antenna, stereo, charge your iPhone, iPad, laptop, inefficiencies in the inverter, and well, you should be able to go 8-12 hours before you need to do something. Something as in drive the MH, plug into shore power or start the gene. Sure you can choose to do nothing and drain those batts down to say 20% DOD. You'll be replacing batteries every year IMHO if you do that though. Go to 50%, charge it properly and those batts should last 5+ years.
Only you can decide if that is enough.
It might be clearer why I went with 600AH of lithium and 960 watts of solar on the roof.
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou Camp View Post
Computer Guy, your logic about batteries seems sound. Do I set my EMS, LBCO to 50%? This of course only happens when we are boondocking, which is infrequent. My batteries read between 1.225 and 1.250 on hydrometer, after equalizing and a full charge. Shouldn't fairly new batteries read 1.275 to 1.280?
Thanks for the info!
Lou Camp 50.
Lou Camp

The age of the batteries is pretty much a moot point. If the batteries were abused previously they are damaged. You may get a degraded reading due to that. Temp you did the gravity test matters also. I am also no battery expert. I don't recall if on your original thread you said the batteries were left for dead a couple of times. You can still use them they will just never be able to get to 100% and will discharge faster than new.
I think you are confusing an EMS with an inverter setting (LBCO). An EMS (energy management system) at least on the Bounder is what controls devices that can be used when on shore power that is 30 Amp or less. Example you are on 30 amp service and turn both ACs on, only one will actually run the compressor and cool.
LBCO (Low Battery Cut Out) is a setting on the Magnum remote that will disconnect the inverter when a certain voltage is detected on the battery bank. For whatever reason FW decided to set this at 11v. At that low voltage your battery bank is at a very discharged state unless you are drawing a large load. Another reason LBCO based on voltage is not a good indicator. Best way is to install a BMK. This gives a much better reading on SOC as it measures actual amps in and out.
Below are typical voltages at a given SOC (at rest).
Also these are the FW default settings on the Magnum remote for my RV. I obviously changed mine as I have a different battery bank and actually upgraded the remote, added a BMK and and AGS.
I think I rambled on way too long. It's after my bed time.
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:16 PM   #10
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so if I want to change batteries, I believe I would have to change the remote for my magnum inverter. I currently have this one. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

If i add two more 6 volts tomy system, will I have to change remote settings and does that mean I have to change remotes? Also, does anyone know if i turn the two batteries so they no longer face lengthwise under the step, will I be able to fit four batteries in the compartment?
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by mojoracing View Post
so if I want to change batteries, I believe I would have to change the remote for my magnum inverter. I currently have this one. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

If i add two more 6 volts tomy system, will I have to change remote settings and does that mean I have to change remotes? Also, does anyone know if i turn the two batteries so they no longer face lengthwise under the step, will I be able to fit four batteries in the compartment?
Mojo
Looks like that remote works with the MM series of inverter/chargers from Magnum. The '16 has the MS series.
Doesn't look like you can upgrade the remote nor change the settings for yours. I'm not an expert so maybe a call to Magnum will provide a different result.
I know I had 4 batts under my step. Might want to take a tape measure to it if no one else replies. I did put a picture up of my (now empty) space under the step. Might be under my lithium thread.
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:32 AM   #12
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I could swear I read somewhere (maybe on magnums site) that it could be upgraded and could even add remote gen start. That was actually what I was researching. Am I correct when I say that the settings would need to be changed if I install 2 more batteries?
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:33 AM   #13
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I would also like to be able to equalize them and I don't think that is possible with my remote
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Old 03-05-2017, 12:16 PM   #14
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Mojo,
Not sure if you have that series but it seems you do.
http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sit...-MM-Series.pdf

I'll stick with my comment on giving Magnum a call. Their support is top notch and are very helpful. 425-353-8833

"ME-RC50 - Full feature remote with backlit LCD display and LED indicators for inverter and charger status. Provides full menu access for easy selection and adjustment; comes with 50’ cable. The ME-RC50 is used for many inverter models and has additional features that are not functional with the MM Series inverter. However, it can be used with all MM Series inverter models (MM612 requires serial number L1-201 or higher)."

"Charge Mode (not available on all models)
Some MM Series models are equipped with a multi-stage battery charger feature. This includes an automatic 4-stage charging process:
Bulk, Absorb, Float and Full Charge; and a manual charge stage: Equalization (the ME-RC50 is required to enable Equalization charge). The automatic 4-stage charge process provides complete recharging and monitoring of the batteries without damage due to overcharging."

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