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05-19-2017, 06:12 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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Cummins C8.3 Oil change and Fill
I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on my 1998 American Eagle. So when I go to refill I know I can fill the engine with oil from the top of the engine as with all other engines. But i noticed another possible place on the front of the engine that has a cap. I have circled in red the cap on the front of the engine. Can I fill the engine with oil from this opening on the front of the engine. The pic is not my actual engine but one similar. Thanks in advance.
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John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-19-2017, 06:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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Yes, you can .......but be careful as the oil will fill up that neck fast and over flow........just pour it slow watching the level in the neck.
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2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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05-19-2017, 06:54 PM
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#3
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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Yes, you can use that fill, in fact I believe that is where you are supposed to fill the engine with oil.
I have noted no restriction when filling at that point, the restriction was the funnel.
A couple of points
1) There is a lot of oil in the crank case, be sure you have enough capacity in you drain pan to hold all the oil
2) You should change the oil when hot
3) There are two drain plugs in the side of the crankcase, if you are a little squeamish about opening the bottom one to drain all the oil out, you can use the one above it to drain about half the oil and then use the one on the bottom to drain the rest of the oil out. I use the bottom one and just put my thumb over the hole to change drain pans.
4) A good strap oil filter wrench helps get the oil filter off.
5) Use a Phillips screw driver or awl to poke a hole in the bottom of the oil filter to drain the filter before removing it.
6) have lots of paper towels on hand.
7) Once you have done an oil change the second one will not be as hard.
This is a link to my first OIL CHANGE
In the link I talk about the Fumoto valve which allows you to just turn the valve to drain the oil. I have removed it as I feel it restricts the flow of the oil and I want it to flow freely to drain any particles of the bottom of the crankcase.
Good luck, take your time and you will not have a mess to clean up.
Glenn
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05-20-2017, 05:50 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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Well I went to remove the oil filter with a strap wrench and the filter is not budging. And ideas what Else I can try. Changed about 2000 miles ago.
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John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-20-2017, 05:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 475
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Did you try poking a hole in the bottom of the filter....
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05-20-2017, 05:57 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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This is what I use after strap wrench did not work for me also......1/2" long extension and a 1/2" breaker bar........
NAPA and other auto supply store's have them......
__________________
2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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05-20-2017, 06:00 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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I'll try that
__________________
John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-20-2017, 06:10 AM
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#8
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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I also us a 1/2 breaker bar with my strap oil filter wrench, and a long extension to get the breaker bar below the crankcase.
Here I am only taking the slack out of the strap. When it comes time to remove the filter I am on the end of the breaker bar and exerting quite a bit of force to get the filter loose.
One thing I forgot to mention in my tips was to break the filter loose before poking the hole so that you do not immobilize the unit. I guess you could put a screw in the hole, bit the filter is empty and takes almost a gallon of oil to fill it. I would not want to run the engine that long without oil.
I only hand tighten the filter 3/4 turn after contact, but it seems to get tight over time and takes quite a bit of effort to get it off.
(putting a hole in the filter will not help get it off)
Glenn
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05-20-2017, 06:22 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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Glenn that is exactly the setup I'm using. I'm putting a lot of pressure on the breaker. I didn't want to push so hard I crush in the filter case with the metal bar on the strap wrench
And the wrench broke, the webbing slips out of the slot now. I hammed the slot closer and go it back together.
Finally got the filter to turn, dam what alot of force
__________________
John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-20-2017, 07:12 AM
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#10
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWLSC
Glenn that is exactly the setup I'm using. I'm putting a lot of pressure on the breaker. I didn't want to push so hard I crush in the filter case with the metal bar on the strap wrench
And the wrench broke, the webbing slips out of the slot now. I hammed the slot closer and go it back together.
Finally got the filter to turn, dam what alot of force
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Sounds like it is time for a new wrench before the next oil change.
It does take a lot force.
I think the rubber gasket on the filter swells up over time.
Good going.
Glenn
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05-20-2017, 07:27 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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Glenn what about the coolant filter. I tried the valve but not turning. Can I just spin off the old filter and put on the new one. I will loose some coolant is it enough to worry about. If so what do put back in.
Also i was lucky my oil pan already had a Fumoto installed..
Thanks for the quick and great advice.
__________________
John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-20-2017, 08:37 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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Done !
Got the oil change done and no leaks,yet. Was not bad except for the filter being a pain to get off. Easy fill on the front of the engine. Next is the Cooling filter, then the Fuel filters. Some how I got the wrong filters.
__________________
John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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05-20-2017, 10:17 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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You can remove the coolant conditioner w/o turning the valve off, but be sure to keep your mouth closed, lol
Be sure to put a little oil on all filter o-ring gasket before hand...
You'll need to add the type of coolant you have, is the green stuff? If not then it'll be a long life product that you can pick up a box stores
__________________
1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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05-20-2017, 10:24 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 226
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It's green. When you say container do you mean the filter.
__________________
John
USMC 1981-1993 SSgt
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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