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Old 09-10-2021, 06:54 PM   #1
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Dead fuel pump updates

Hi again,

As some already know I'm having hard time rescuing a 96' Bounder that was parked for 10 years and used as a guest house. Today I woke up on my other rv at the owner property who kindly allow me to stay plugged but for some reason I started to feel bad and I think I got a big flu. Anyway, trying to work for short time lapses to avoid getting worse, today, after 2 hours I was able to open the stuck basement doors to see if I've room to cut the floor and have access to the in tank fuel pump and I got the nice surprise that the whole basement is occupied with the fresh water tank and water pump.

Sooo, I went under the floor to start the plan B and drop the tank. However, I found that I can't remove the bolts of the leveling jack that are all the way up with a cross member that embrace the gas tank, funny right? The bolts seems to have lose nuts on the other side and I don't have any access to use a wrench and stop them to turning.

Time to get to the Plan C (the third is the winner, as we use to say in Argentina): high pressure inline fue tank. I found a guy from other forum that use to build big engines hot rods and says that the he has more efficiency with inline pumps vs in tank. He also created a guide that I've having some issues to understand as electricity is not something that I dominate.


Anyway, I'm here again trying to know if anyone was able to install a inline fuel pump with a dead in tank pump and what's the procedure. I already know that I'll need the actual high pressure inline pump, high pressure hoses, clamps, 10 gauge wire, relays, fuses, and sealed connectors but not sure where I need to install the pump, what I need to cut o remove, etc.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-10-2021, 08:13 PM   #2
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Just guessing.. i would add just before fuel filter.. because if any trash gets sucked up.. you have filter to try [ On old rv] keep trash from going to fuel injectors... I am thinking 6AN. Or 8AN.. you should be easily get AN to barb hose connector..cut before filter and use compression fitting to barb hose connector.. mount on frame.. keep parts you cut out.. and I would install new filter..

If you get trash in injectors.. big job to repair... next I would try and get my power off fuel pump power for new relay trigger.. You did check for power at fuel pump right ?

Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 09-10-2021, 09:31 PM   #3
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Just guessing.. i would add just before fuel filter.. because if any trash gets sucked up.. you have filter to try [ On old rv] keep trash from going to fuel injectors... I am thinking 6AN. Or 8AN.. you should be easily get AN to barb hose connector..cut before filter and use compression fitting to barb hose connector.. mount on frame.. keep parts you cut out.. and I would install new filter..

If you get trash in injectors.. big job to repair...

Thanks for your response. I was thinking to put 2 filters, one between tank and inline pump and other between pump and injectors. Keeping in mind that the external pumps are better pushing than sucking not sure if it will have enough pressure to pump the fuel through the intank pump.

By another side to make sure the injectors don't get any dirt from the ancient gas I was thinking to install the pump on the reverse way first to make sure I can remove everything from the lines.
Then install the pump between the filter and the tank, pointing to the tank to blow the line and see if its clogged and after I put some pressure on the tank release the pump from the line and finally drain the few gallons of gas by a siphoning effect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
next I would try and get my power off fuel pump power for new relay trigger.. You did check for power at fuel pump right ?
I checked every relay and fuse from the fuse box and everything is working good. Then with a multi tester I checked the inertia switch with the omhs option and I got open circuit.

That makes any sense or I missing some steps on the kind help that I'm finding in this forum? Maybe I should cut the wiring before the closest to the tank as possible to check if I'm getting the proper voltage?
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Old 09-10-2021, 09:35 PM   #4
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Iím one who cut the hole from the top. The fresh water tank is fairly easy to remove. I cut the fill hose and vent hose where I could reach because I couldnít reach the clamps through the basement doors. Then used couplers and clamps on these hoses when I reinstalled the fresh water tank. Otherwise, if yours is like mine, it is fairly smooth sailing.
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Old 09-10-2021, 09:51 PM   #5
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Iím one who cut the hole from the top. The fresh water tank is fairly easy to remove. I cut the fill hose and vent hose where I could reach because I couldnít reach the clamps through the basement doors. Then used couplers and clamps on these hoses when I reinstalled the fresh water tank. Otherwise, if yours is like mine, it is fairly smooth sailing.
Thanks for you explanation Marvin! I'm trying to leave the owner's property as possible to avoid abusing of her generosity and then with more time and the rv running see how can I change the in tank pump.
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Old 09-11-2021, 05:09 AM   #6
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On re-reading your previous post I see you said the inertia switch ohms open circuit. If I am understanding you correctly that is the next thing that needs addressing. It should read closed circuit. If it wonít reset to zero ohms, take a paper clip or other wire and short the two terminals going to the inertia switch to bypass it. The fuel pump will never get voltage if the inertia switch is breaking the circuit.
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Old 09-11-2021, 10:12 AM   #7
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On re-reading your previous post I see you said the inertia switch ohms open circuit. If I am understanding you correctly that is the next thing that needs addressing. It should read closed circuit. If it wonít reset to zero ohms, take a paper clip or other wire and short the two terminals going to the inertia switch to bypass it. The fuel pump will never get voltage if the inertia switch is breaking the circuit.
Let me trying to explain better. What I did on the inertia switch, was find the switch terminal and with the switch connected and key all the way to OFF I connected the multimeter probes, one on each side of the switch and I got a beep. Is that how to test an inertia switch?

I'll try your suggestion to jump the switch, I tried but was hard to pull out and one needs to be a contortionist to get down there.
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Old 09-11-2021, 11:33 AM   #8
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You canít really test it connected to the wiring harness with an ohmmeter, you might be measuring continuity from all kinds of other places. You could test for voltage on both sides with key on but again it easy to get confused by feedback from other sources.

Simplest is to bypass it if you can get to it. That way you KNOW you have a good connection there and no lingering diagnostic question about it.
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Old 09-11-2021, 12:28 PM   #9
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You canít really test it connected to the wiring harness with an ohmmeter, you might be measuring continuity from all kinds of other places. You could test for voltage on both sides with key on but again it easy to get confused by feedback from other sources.

Simplest is to bypass it if you can get to it. That way you KNOW you have a good connection there and no lingering diagnostic question about it.
Got it disconnected and jumped! Still can hear any pump noise nor activity.
Right now with the inertia switch still jumped I'm trying to see if I can check for power at the fuel pump wiring but I'm not sure how to do that.
I can see there are 2 switchs, one round with only 2 wires (that you can see disconnected in the photo) and the other a rectangle with more wires.

Could you tell me how to check voltage on the wiring and where to plug my multitester probes?

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Old 09-11-2021, 12:42 PM   #10
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Ok, so I found the wiring diagram and after tested the black with pink wire and the ground I'm getting 11.5v so I can confirm wiring it's good to go.

Now heading to Napa to buy an external fuel pump and see what I can do.
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Old 09-11-2021, 12:52 PM   #11
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Can anyone confirm this:

To avoid adding fuses and relays for the external fuel pump, can I just split the wiring of the dead in tank pump and connect the inline pump there?
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Old 09-11-2021, 02:29 PM   #12
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The short answer is probably yes you can. However, when you measured 11.5 volts, that is low voltage, is your battery almost dead or are you losing voltage somewhere or multiple places like poor grounds, for example. So a question is what is your battery voltage measured across the battery terminals?

On my Bounder, the pump pigtail has enough slack that I can actually pull it out through a handy hole already formed in the frame and could measure voltage there if I needed to, to make sure I have voltage to the pump. At the pump you also have to determine what is pump wiring and what is fuel level gauge wiring.

Moving forward, if you do have adequate voltage at wherever you want to pull the pump voltage from, it should work. You dont have to split it off, you could break the wire there and connect to your new pump. You can always put it back later if you go back to the original pump configuration.

Iíve had trouble with aftermarket external pumps. Get one with enough pressure and capacity to provide what you need. Possibly you can at least get it working well enough to get it to another location.

Hope this helps some.
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Old 09-11-2021, 04:23 PM   #13
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I'm curious how old the starting battery is and what is the voltage measured at the battery itself?
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