Deleting the AC Shedding System

[ret60sp]

We had our 30 amp electrical system upgraded to a 50 amp system, replaced the 1000 watt inverter with a Victron Energy Multiplus 3000, replaced the AC and DC electrical panel and rewired the loads to balance them across the two sides of L1 & L2. The issue now is we can safely delete the shedding system, but finding anyone with the knowledge to do that task is proving to be a bit elusive. Has anyone found the requisite expertise to delete the shed system? Our electrical system works fine, but the airconditioners still like to argue with one another and shed the compressor start for no describable reason. The way they are wired for AC power there is no risk of a circuit overload. The shedding system is no longer needed because we have a tankless LPG truma water heater and there is no actual load sharing. Every appliance that needs power (AC or DC) has its own appropriately sized home run back to the electrical service panel. Anyone know someone with experience deleting the shed system?

[MarvinG]

On my 97 Bounder, the units have the standard low voltage red, yellow, green, common, terminals on the unit itself. Since I still need load shedding but was not at all happy with the temperature regulating, I simply put standard HVAC thermostats (choosing stats that have self-contained AA batteries) and broke the yellow wire. I turn my load shedding control panel to on, lower the temp setting all the way and control the temps with my stats.

If the red terminal at the AC is hot all the time, you could simply disconnect the Yellow wire from load shedding, the green wire from load shedding and instead run red to the R on your new stat. The green to green and the yellow to yellow.

If the Red is not hot all the time, you could run 12 volt from wherever you want (make sure it is fused properly) to the stat and proceed accordingly.

[Bigd9]

What device does your RV have that controls the shedding? Mine is a 50 amp smart EMS by Intellitec. So when it "sees" 50 amp the shedding is basically nil. BUT if it sees 30 amp or 20 amp supply, then it will shed as needed.

[Bigd9]

Here are two manuals for Intellitec load EMS I found online. Maybe they will offer some nugget of information that you can use.

[MarvinG]

Since he started with 30 amp, it will likely be somewhat more similar to what I have. It has no understanding of 50 amp capacity. However, with plenty of voltage and ampacity supposedly available to handle the load, I’m unclear why his is shedding.

[Lt Dan]

Our Itasca was a 30 amp when we bought it and had the Intellitec Power Management System like BD9 showed. After I converted it to 50 amp, it automatically showed no shedding and no longer displayed the amperage draws.

[House Husband]

Behind the circuit breakers is what looks like a small transformer with a black wire running through it. Remove the black wire from the induction coil and reattach the wire to it original location. That way the shedding system won't know how much power you are using.

Richard

[Gary RVRoamer]

Originally Posted by MarvinG

Since he started with 30 amp, it will likely be somewhat more similar to what I have. It has no understanding of 50 amp capacity. However, with plenty of voltage and ampacity supposedly available to handle the load, I’m unclear why his is shedding.

The 30A-only version of the Intellitec Smart EMS doesn't check for capacity greater than 30A - it just limits all consumption to 30. The 50A version checks for more than 150v between L1 & L2 to determine 50A and turns off amp monitoring if it is, but the 30A doesn't have that feature.


Here is the 30A EMS manual, which includes installation wiring and service.
https://intellitec.com/wp-content/up...-00912-000.pdf


The easiest way to defeat amp monitoring is to remove the neutral wire from the monitor device (current sensor). No measurement of amps means it never exceeds the limit.