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Old 07-25-2021, 09:24 AM   #1
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Denso high pressure sensor

I have a 2007 Fleetwood Southwind. Ford F53 chassis. The chassis ac hasnít worked since we purchased it. I took it too a mechanic and he puts on a new compressor. Which it needed. He charged the system. After charging by hot wiring the compressor he said he couldnít get it to run. He said the ECM was not telling it to come on. I had a hard time buying that. After taking it home, I started doing some digging into the problem. I have diagnosed it as a bad high/med pressure switch. Now the real problem is the switch is in the evaporator box. To replace they say the box has to be removed. My question is has anyone cut a hole in the box to remove the sensor and patched the box back afterwards. I would really like to not have to remove the box. Itís seems rather stupid to put that sensor in a place that is not accessible.
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:03 AM   #2
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Are you sure you are not confusing the expansion valve with hi pressure switch.. don't cut the box.. now mine is 2000 workhorse.. with denso system and I only had expansion valve is deep inside evap box.. no hi pressure switch.. that is on dryer.. did they replace the dryer? Does it look new? I had to pull my evap box.. it's not hard.. but you have to have basic understanding of a/c system.. you can use magnet to find screws that hold pass side foot kick panel.. there are 2. And there should be some relays.. you got to stand on your head.. and have good lighting.. I always thought hi pressure switch is outside on dryer.. and they should have changed the hi pressure switch . try jumping that and see if works.. go to big box ap,store and get a basic a/c repair book. And gauges set.. that will tell you how to diagnose bad expansion valve.. it has no electric control.. expansion valve control flow of Freon and mine had no electric going to it..it uses a temp sensing bulb.. there maybe a difference but I doubt it.. don't cut into evap box.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you.. if you really want to get into evap box.. get back with me and I will take you on a long journey.. but until then.. get all relays, fuses, clutch connection and dryer, and clean all connection they get very corroded over time and need cleaning.. that's 99% of problems and very time consuming and expensive... check and clean all grounds.. you can get your own a/c book and gauges. And get a ford f250 or f350 repair book that will tell you how to test e cm. And a scanner a good one and you can see if E.c.m. is commanding the a/c to come on.. and a good scanner you can manually tell a/c to come on.. was the system still holding pressure before you took it in?..
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:34 AM   #3
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Sorry just a thought you could take to 2nd shop for 2nd opinion.. and or get one of those special scope camera, bore scope camera, get a color one they are under 100.00 and pull blower under dash and snake that in the evap box and see if what you are is looking for is in there.. no pulling box.. you should have one.. they are great to see what's in your ear , nose, or sink drains for blockage.. great to use all over rv to fit into places your head does not. I use mine all the time..
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Old 07-26-2021, 10:12 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
Are you sure you are not confusing the expansion valve with hi pressure switch.. don't cut the box.. now mine is 2000 workhorse.. with denso system and I only had expansion valve is deep inside evap box.. no hi pressure switch.. that is on dryer.. did they replace the dryer? Does it look new? I had to pull my evap box.. it's not hard.. but you have to have basic understanding of a/c system.. you can use magnet to find screws that hold pass side foot kick panel.. there are 2. And there should be some relays.. you got to stand on your head.. and have good lighting.. I always thought hi pressure switch is outside on dryer.. and they should have changed the hi pressure switch . try jumping that and see if works.. go to big box ap,store and get a basic a/c repair book. And gauges set.. that will tell you how to diagnose bad expansion valve.. it has no electric control.. expansion valve control flow of Freon and mine had no electric going to it..it uses a temp sensing bulb.. there maybe a difference but I doubt it.. don't cut into evap box.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you.. if you really want to get into evap box.. get back with me and I will take you on a long journey.. but until then.. get all relays, fuses, clutch connection and dryer, and clean all connection they get very corroded over time and need cleaning.. that's 99% of problems and very time consuming and expensive... check and clean all grounds.. you can get your own a/c book and gauges. And get a ford f250 or f350 repair book that will tell you how to test e cm. And a scanner a good one and you can see if E.c.m. is commanding the a/c to come on.. and a good scanner you can manually tell a/c to come on.. was the system still holding pressure before you took it in?..
Yes pretty sure its the high/med pressure switch. The schematic shows the switch in the box. They even tell you in the instructions how to check it. I jumped it and the system works perfectly. I dont understand why they put it there but they did. I tested every relay. I have check the control panel with another motorhome. Everything works as it should. The low pressure switch check good. Its just the high pressure switch. The med portion of the switch is hooked to the temp sensor on the motor. If the motor gets hot it shuts the system down. Thats what the manual says. So I have to replace it.

I do have the blower out and I plan on getting a camera in there to make sure before I do anything.
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Old 07-26-2021, 10:15 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
Sorry just a thought you could take to 2nd shop for 2nd opinion.. and or get one of those special scope camera, bore scope camera, get a color one they are under 100.00 and pull blower under dash and snake that in the evap box and see if what you are is looking for is in there.. no pulling box.. you should have one.. they are great to see what's in your ear , nose, or sink drains for blockage.. great to use all over rv to fit into places your head does not. I use mine all the time..
I have access to a camera and thats my next move. I have the blower out now. I want to check before I do anything else. I have tried to take this thing to different shops and when I tell them its a motorhome they run for the hills. No one wants to touch it. A Ford dealer said they wouldn't even look at it. They wanted nothing to do with it. So that's why I have dug in. Right now if I jump the connector that goes into the box to the high pressure switch it works perfectly.
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:08 PM   #6
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Ok.. now mine is 2000 Fleetwood/ southwind storm with Chevy chassis but denso a/c.. you have blower out you might be able to use your cell phone with camera and flash and record up under and inside too.. or use bore camera to get to your objective.. try to clearly see it's orientation.. and are you going to have to disconnect the a/c lines.. to get the switch out.. I know some are just plastic and just screw on the evap.. if so great I hope you don't have to recover all the Freon.. 1st tool and supplies.. you need a power screwdriver with 8 to 10 in long #2 Phillips head.. next caulk or RTV.. to seal the box back to firewall.. a great light.. hopefully one that fits on your head.. it's a simple job so their loss is your gain because all the a/c places I tried 3yrs ago wanted 5,000.00 just t change a 13.00 part.. I am going to tell you 2 different ways.. the first way... hopefully you will not have to remove the whole box out and set it on the bench to tear down..
1st wy.. partial removals... under hood pass side free up as much slack in a/c lines as possible.. remove clamps, zip ties ect... take cell picture so you can put them back.. label zip lock bags.. you will forget when it's time to reassemble..
Now you freed up lines.. look at pass side under hood at evap box.. it sticks out.. feel under it and see if they glued a little drain line on it.. pull that.. most of Tim they don't or it's long lost.. so we will call that the front of box and the back is inside coach at pass feet.. ok... look and feel all around front of box for screws.. sometimes they put some outside.. use cell phone with camera and flash and record all around.. notice.. the firewall is wood.. that is why they use wood screws to hold box on to firewall..
Next.. go inside.. get in area between box and side wall of rv, you get maybe 1.5 n it's tight.. there are 4 or 6 screws that hold box form inside to firewall.. you will need a magnet to find them all.. and retrieve the one's that are dropped. This is where you need 10in long Phillips... check with magnet very closely in carpet area next to front and sides of box.. make sure they did not screw down to floor.. next.. check all around front of box and remove screws.. I have to remove relays and wiring.. make sure to record a lot of pictures.. on mine.. there was a 1.5in silver metal box that has a probe that goes inside box.. don't damage it!, be very careful and the probe has to go back in same spot.. pictures..
The silver box on mine is a temp control.. ie.. pressure control, but was mounted outside of evap box on the inside top.. two very tiny screws hold it on box.. careful.. use phone with camera and flash and record up under there to help you see what you cannot
See part 2
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:29 PM   #7
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Part 2 cont.. objective.. only pull the box out just enough to get to switch you want to pull.. now here is the hard part.. and be very careful.. they not only glue the box to firewall but use a very.. very.. very.. very strong sealant.. most time black.. I had to remove as much by hand and box knife.. I cut myself so many timees... it was like a sacrifice to the rv gods..... next pull down 1st and pull out wiggling side to side.. get helper if you can to push under hood towards insides.. not to far.. that should get you a better look.. maybe record.. and see if you can get it...
Now after 14 plus years.. I bet the caulk they used was leaking anyway.. mine was..so.. if you change your part and go to get this back.. do it right.. a very little leak will rot out the floor in no time.. you got to get this right..
Go under hood.. clean entire area that old seal was around.. pull all old seal out.. then with all safety precautions.. use alcohol or lacquer thinner to clean up and give you a fighting chance to get it back .. completely sealed.. see part3..
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:40 PM   #8
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Part 3 cont.. ofcouse if you remove the switch you want to change.. I should have warned you.. in part 1... use all safety precautions.. most of time those types of switches have a self seal a/c valve.. but it might not.. and it is 14yrs old.. it might not seal.. so be ready for a flood of high pressure Freon to hit your hand and face and possibly flood the coach with gas.. open all... I mean all. Windows and vents.. door open so you can run out holding your breath.. a safety spotter to watch away from outside.. in case they need 911.. with good cell phone.. explain they are not under any circumstances are they to enter coach and try to save you.. use a good heavy leather gloves and eye protection.. just in case..see part 4
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:49 PM   #9
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Part4 cont.. seal area is all cleaned up.. you got to get this right.. or water damage will occur.. caulk all around the firewall to box area and a lot.. do a good job.. you don't want to do it again..
Push box from inside in and then up.. and reverse of what you did.. my back is shot so I had a lot of help.. I removed the pass chair and that made things so much easier for me, you don't have to, but the room you get is to your advantage.. I hope this helps.. no special skills only 1 or 2 special tools and hi quality sealant..
See part 5
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:23 PM   #10
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Part 5 cont. Now if you realize the whole box must come out and on to bench for repair, which is what I had to do.. you got to recover Freon at shop.. I would ask if same shop would do this for free.. since they could not fix it..
So system is empty.. under hood at front of the box where 2 a/c lines go into box.. pictures.. lot of pictures.. use 2 wrenches to disconnect lines.. now this is so important.. tape all ends of lines off.. you don't want any water or dirt to get it..the rest is the same above..

After all is back together.. you can go to something like AutoZone and you can borrow an a/c vac pump for free..just a deposit.. and freon..
Vac out for 45mins to one hour, then refill .. take vac pump back.. get refund..
Don't worry if compressor does not start 1st can.. it takes some time and maybe 2 cans to get things moving.. you made sure shop changed dryer.. like I asked above.. you never said.. you must have a new dryer on it.. or all your work will be destroyed including the new compressor..
Well good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me.. I hope this helps.. I know there is so many parts.. but it the only way I could get it all to post.. the system kicked me off earlier today and I lost a long post.. that took me 45mins..ps.. if you put a new dryer on it yourself.. make sure you add proper type and amount of special a/c oil to it 1st.. or compressor will by destroyed.. AutoZone can tell you what type and amount... and really hats off for you trying this yourself.. and I know for what the shop charges you can do this 2 or times and still not be that much.. I had 250 for compressor and 13.00 expansion valve and 30. Freon but it took 2 of us some time and bloody thumbs.. and a few shots of morphine.. maybe quiet a few.. but no one would do it.. not for 5,000.00.. once you see how easy it is.. you wonder about shops.. I guess they can pick and choose.. when you think about it.. it has to be easy.. because the factory gives the workers about 10 seconds to get entire a/c in.. the rv dash and sealed.. mine was missing screws.. oh.. now is good time to use your favorite spray lube on top of blower box and lube all moving parts and cables.. I like white silicone grease.. 1st clean all the old dust bunnies off..all the door hinges and seals.. check for signs of water.. and tighty everything up.. inspect dash while there.. you will see missing screws.. add them to strengthen dash.. check all door move ect.. that is about it.. i added about 200 in extra insulation for sound and heat.. what a difference.. i got off Amazon.. stuff is great.. i used 3 layers and put everywhere i could.. you cant hear eng..and blocks out the heat..
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:51 PM   #11
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Wow what a reply. Thanks for the reply. Thatís above and beyond the call of duty there. I appreciate your patience. As far as the dryer goes, I really donít know. When the guy quit working on it I took the motorhome I told him to call me when he was ready for me to bring it back. He never called and I never paid a dime. I suspect he didnít know how to fix it so he didnít want to mess with it. And to be honest I dont want to take it back to him. My trust in him as a mechanic is gone. None of this seems too tough. I did my own rear brake and bearing replacement on the rear so I think this is something I can handle.
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Old 07-26-2021, 07:52 PM   #12
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You not only can do it.. but better than any shop.. I hope it helps.. if look at dryer and it does not look new change it.. period.. it's about 40.00 and check compressor.. if it does not look new.. change it.. they only last 5 to 10yrs anyway.. so if you think it's 14yrs old pull it.. buy the nicest you can afford.. try to avoid rebuilt ones.. they just don't last.. good luck keep us posted..
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:07 PM   #13
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Sorry.. forgot how to spell desiccant.. and spell checker kept messing up.. it's the material inside dryer and if it's over 10yrs it can breakdown and circulate through the system and you need to add a step of flushing.. you really want to grab a basic a/c repair book for cars and trucks to give you the best out come..
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Old 08-01-2021, 05:05 PM   #14
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I wanted to update this thread. I went this weekend to look at replacing the high pressure switch. After looking at it which a camera and figuring out my next move I decided to plug the connector back in and see if it was the high side or the med pressure side that was the problem. I plug it back in and the system works. I basically have done nothing. Best I can tell the connector was either not making a complete connection or was corroded and not making contact. The system works as it should. I have looked at the drier and I believe it has been changed. I checked pressures and all looks good at this point. So no more work needs done. I will take being lucky over good anyway. Thanks for all you input. I’m sure this will help someone along the way.
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