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Old 10-02-2017, 10:21 AM   #15
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Ok... deposit was sent on 40x, refundable, looking to pick up on the 12th. I have contacted a NRVIA inspector for availability and cost. It would be nice to have inspection done before I book my flight but is this something I should be present for? I know this coach was a 1 owner and traded in for a new coach. Dealer has done inspection and tells me it is ready to roll. But..... Should I still pay for private inspector?
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Old 10-02-2017, 10:33 AM   #16
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Yes, you should. Small cost to protect a large investment. Peace of mind too.
The dealer has no real interest other than selling you the coach.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:23 PM   #17
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I paid ~$300 for my own inspection 4 years ago when we bought this coach. I was there for it and glad I was. He explained a lot of things to me that I didn't know to ask--but I was a 100% newbie with NO experience with any type RV.

He found no problems (neither did we), but I was glad I did it. Gave me piece of mind.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:35 PM   #18
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Dealer has probably done no inspection, probably has never even plugged it in. They usually won't touch them until the sale is done but lie to you the entire time. They only lie when there mouths are moving. Have flown thousands of miles to pick up more than one coach that was "ready to roll" and they weren't...
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Old 10-02-2017, 06:51 PM   #19
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Have inspection set up for this week, $400. Wish I could be there but too far.
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:43 AM   #20
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Make sure he tests the house batteries, with a hydrometer too. If the rig was left unplugged for too long, they could be shot even if the charge says full.

Have him tell you the dates on the house and chassis batteries too, just so you know. They're only good for 5-7 years, depending on how they were treated--less, if really badly!

Find out when was the last servicing and what done for the chassis. Try to get the records. Make sure your inspector unplugs from shore power and runs the generator under load (ACs running, microwave too) Have him tell you the total amps pulled. My ACs are heat pumps; I'm sure yours are too. They pull about 16amps to start, but run at about 11amps. The microwave can draw 13-14 amps.
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:27 AM   #21
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Received my very detailed report, very impressive. I would like another set of eyes on this, who is the motor coach guru here? Please let me know with a pm.
Thanks
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:06 PM   #22
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Ok... pick up coach tomorrow, flying into Phoenix. I need some support we are driving to Las Vegas for 2 days then home. I have driven hills before with my Duramax 3500 and 40 Fuzion but this motorhome gig is new to me. Been reading all I can on here but still a little nervous. Keep her around 2k rpm up hill and down? Can I keep the exhaust/retard switch on going down, if needed? This coach will be empty and not sure of a place to get weighed, so what tire pressure should I roll out with? Hopefully I will get some knowledge from dealer before we go. Throw some more pointers out at me!
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:47 PM   #23
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Tire pressure probably posted on a placard next to driver seat. Just go with that until you can weigh it someday. I just let trans take care of things going uphill, if engine temps go up, start downshifting. Use the retarder exhaust as needed , foot off accelerator touch brake all set. I usually have all the retard I need in position 1. By the time you get to Vegas you'll be comfortable. Enjoy
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:57 PM   #24
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What temp range should normal on engine and tranny? Where is the concerned zone?
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:05 PM   #25
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Lots to cover here, and being at the DOAI National Rally here in OK I don't really have time to go into detail. Remember I have a 2008 with a Cummins engine; you have a 2007 with a Cat. But for driving purposes, they are nearly the same.

When going up a grade, aim for 2300 RPM (not precisely, but that's your target). That will keep you from overheating. Watch your temp gage when on level ground driving about 60-65. That's your normal. Going up a grade it will inevitably rise.

IF you have an actual temp gage (I have a Banks that gives it to me), "normal" is probably similar to mine: 192-194 (newer rigs I'm hearing run closer to 186-189. In the mountains going up a grade I often hit 206-212 when going too fast. That is still a bit lower than the red range on the temp needle.

I also monitor my exhaust temp and try hard to keep it below 1400 degrees on grades. Unless you have a Banks or a VMS-PC, you are unlikely to have that info available to you (although it may be available on your LBCU [?], the LCD readout on your dash).

Suffice to say, it will often be appropriate to be going up a 6% grade at 35mph in 3rd gear at 2300 RPM. When you drop below 45-50mph, put on your emergency flashers, just as the truckers do. DO NOT try to use your cruise control when dealing with grades, up or down.

Regarding your retarder, I would suggest you use it primarily in smaller hill situations. On steep grades it cannot downshift soon enough. When going downhill, the rule is to use the same gear used when going uphill.

Whenever you gain enough speed in that gear that the RPM approaches 3000, hit the brakes enough to bring you down to 2300 and then release them (do NOT ride the brakes; you will overheat them and their stopping ability will be severely degraded). You should be able to reduce the speed to the desired RPM with 10-15 seconds of braking, then release. If you cannot safely keep within that RPM range, you are in too high a gear.

You asked about tire pressure. Every rig will be different. The pressure shown on your placard behind the pilot's seat is NOT the recommended driving pressure. It is the pressure you should have when storing your rig for months, and it is the CYA pressure that the manufacturers post. It will give you a rougher ride than necessary, and handling will be reduced.

Stop at any major truck stop and get at least the front and rear axle weights on their scales, usually a CAT scale (QT has their own, as do other truck stops). Use those weights and the online charts of your tire brand to determine what pressure to use. I use ~105psi in the front, 95psi in the rear for my actual weights (my placard says 120psi, far too high and much poorer handling!).

There are lots of threads on this tire topic, and a lot of ignorance shown therein. When you can, get a 4-corner weight and set your pressures accordingly. I add 5 psi for my own CYA. BTW you can get 4-corner weights on many truck scales, but some have curbs too close to put just one side on the scale.
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:09 PM   #26
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Great info Al, thanks! There is a CAT Scale in my town, took my old set up there many times before big trips, if I see one on my way to Vegas, I will definitely stop. I will check in when I get settled with a cold one in Vegas.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:05 AM   #27
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Are you kidding me!! What a great ride. Was nervous as all get out when I left dealer, took about 30 min to get relaxed. Easy peasy, boy, glad we made the choice to move to a class a diesel. Drove 6 hours to Vegas, LV Motorcoach Resort, engine temp was 185-192, tranny was 165-178 with zero issues. Now this CAT motor is fanominal, let it do its thing. Did mess with the manual shift, had too Don't know what I have left out, just excited. I will get a pic posted.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:15 PM   #28
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Yup I was nervous too first time, told you by the time you got to Vegas everything would be comfortable. We usually stay at the Oasis just little ways from you.
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