Community Forums

Juano · 09-07-2021, 11:46 PM

Hi again,

As some of you already know, I got the chance to get a deal for a 96’ 28T Bounder that was parked for 10 years. Last week I tried to drain the fuel tank but after I removed the fuel line where it reachs the fuel filter and jumped the fuel pump nothing happened so I suspect that the fuel pump it’s dead.

Tomorrow I’ll be going again to the owner’s property so I’m planning every step in advance.

My main concern is that the jacks are all the way up and covering the fuel tank support bolts so I want to know if anyone here was in the same situation as me and which will be the easier way to do it.

Excuse my English and thanks you again!

Sunadan · 09-08-2021, 03:04 AM

RV Builder should learn a lesson from the boating industry. Most tanks are just under you floor and the builder should build in floor hatches with sealed plastic hatches for cleaning. I have a Ford chassis and they are notorious for bad in-tank fuel pumps. I located the fuel tank, measured off the vicinity of the fuel pump which happened to be under our bed and I cut a hatch right over the sending unit. When that pump dies I won't be hit with a $1,500 plus bill for removing the fuel tank. All they need to do is open hatch and change the sending unit.

Juano · 09-08-2021, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunadan

RV Builder should learn a lesson from the boating industry. Most tanks are just under you floor and the builder should build in floor hatches with sealed plastic hatches for cleaning. I have a Ford chassis and they are notorious for bad in-tank fuel pumps. I located the fuel tank, measured off the vicinity of the fuel pump which happened to be under our bed and I cut a hatch right over the sending unit. When that pump dies I won't be hit with a $1,500 plus bill for removing the fuel tank. All they need to do is open hatch and change the sending unit.

That’s is something I’m really thinking to do it as I’m alone. Can you tell me how hard was to cut the hatch? Did you use a circular saw or a jigsaw?

TandW · 09-08-2021, 09:03 AM

You speak as though you don't own this rig yet. Will you have anyone helping you? Will you have firefighting equipment at the ready? How close is it to any dwellings?

Juano · 09-08-2021, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TandW

You speak as though you don't own this rig yet. Will you have anyone helping you? Will you have firefighting equipment at the ready? How close is it to any dwellings?

I own this rig but can’t take it back home as it’s not running, I’m with my wife and a 18 month baby so pretty much doing the job solo and I’ve fire extinguishers.

TandW · 09-08-2021, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juano

I own this rig but can’t take it back home as it’s not running, I’m with my wife and a 18 month baby so pretty much doing the job solo and I’ve fire extinguishers.

Protect yourself first with the extinguishers if things go south on you. Good luck and we'll be waiting for you to report in.

donr103 · 09-08-2021, 10:32 AM

So.. many thousands of rv get new in tank fuel pump every yr.. no problem.. so it's ok.. and with all safety precautions followed.. safe to do.. 1st no one in rv.. and no one in structures next rv.. send them shopping.. that just best.. have charged garden hose on standby.. have all fire extinguisher out.. get comfortable chair and set it about 100 ft from rv.. designate a safety person with cell phone and written down proper address and cross roads.. explain their job.. 1st call 911 next start putting you out.. I know this sounds stupid.. I have changed hundreds of these not even close to having any fire.. and I did stupid stuff.. so now you have better safety.. THEN EDUCATE YOURSELF.. try to jump those jacks down.. as far as you can.. but 1st get 3 layers of 2 by 8 or something like it.. under each jack pad.. then crib up with old wood to stabilize rv.. and chock all wheels.. if you can't get jacks up.. you are going to have to jack only the frame up with rear wheels still on ground.. since you are just lifting frame.. one side at time.. you don't need 20ton jack.. use biggest you got with cribbing.. and do each side.. I cannot take credit here.. so you tube rv fuel pump change.. watch them.. you use 2 ratcheting straps.. about 20.00 best friend.. or if you have or can rent motorcycle jack.. a tv jack.. I like straps

Now if you are the guy that was just wanted to move it short distance... you can use a 5gal gas can and make up your own frame mounted fuel pump for under 100.00 and some hi pressure hose.. you tube Kevin CAUDILL.. he did it.. if you closely look at tank.. you will find that tank was made to be filled from left or right side of tank.. so they just block off un-used ports on one side.. you can run temporary line in there and rig you up temporary fuel pump..

SO you tube p30 tank fuel pump.. or something like that.. there are 5 or 10 great vids..

Once up as far as possible.. unplug rv.. disconnect all batteries.. I mean every post on batteries.. take cell phone with camera and flash and record 1st..

Then put down card board under all over where you will be working and then 4 by 8 sheet of thickest you can get plywood.. I like to ask builder's suppliers if they have cracked sheet.. cheap.. just put down under tank.. makes it easier if you got to slide it out...

SO YOU TUBE.. 1ST.. THEN as always good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you.. oh.. just hit local ap store for pump.. if you are going to use rv a lot get expensive one.. if not cheap.. oh you will have gen fuel line to deal with.. watch out for that..

donr103 · 09-08-2021, 10:44 AM

Now if you are going to drive a lot.. pull tank all the way out.. inspect all lines and replace.. replace entire gen line both rubber and hard line.. cover lines with SS. Braided cover.. find at ap store.. keeps critters from eating about 40. For kit.. cheaper on line..

Clean and paint tank as needed.. inspect inside both frame rails.. for brake lines and hydraulic lines.. replace as needed.

Replace the fill hose rubber hoses.. cheaper on line if you need a lot.. if you don't now.. you will regret it.. good luck and keep us posted

donr103 · 09-08-2021, 10:50 AM

Also if you are going to use a lot.. take time to add insulation under rv floor above the tank.. thickest you can.. it will make it so much better.. you don't want to wish you would have done it and trust me.. you will.. go on line.. get the 350mm or thicker with aluminum coated that self sticking.. following out.. following instructions..you have to wipe underneath 1st with alcohol cleaner .

MrMark52 · 09-08-2021, 11:05 AM

I dropped the fuel tank on our ‘91 P30 chassis after siphoning about 45 gallons of gas out of the 60 gallon tank. It only had about 5 gallons left in it.
Removing the gas was more about removing the the weight than concerns for fire. As long as you drop the mostly empty tank somewhat level and do t use any open flame powered tools of any kind, the fuel in the tank won’t spontaneously ignite.

What turned out to happen on that one is the 1-1/2” long hose that connected the fuel pump discharge to the pick-up tube inside the tank had ruptured - it wasn’t designed to handle today’s alcohol impregnated fuels.
I went ahead and replaced the pump anyway with a new OEM Delphi (the kit came with a new rubber hose and clamps). Bosch would be a good one as well. Don’t go with a cheaper house brand of pump or “Lifetime Warranted” pump - you want reliability, not bells and whistles.

Get some ratchet straps, hook to points on the frame and route under the tank. Drop those jacks a tad so you can get to the anchor nuts. Get heavy duty jack stands and a good bottle jack, or maybe the hydraulic jacks will lift the coach enough that you can get jack stands and blocking under the coach.
BE SURE TO BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS! When the rear wheels are off the ground, the coach WILL ROLL. Raise the rear, put blocks under the rear wheels and jack stands under the axle set so when you drop the coach, the rear wheels are in contact with the blocks.

aog928 · 09-08-2021, 12:17 PM

After several $800+ quotes, plus towing I did my 96 P30 myself.

Cutting a hole under the bed would have been thru the floor, then again thru the cross storage below that. Or crawl in the cross storage and work in there.

I ended up digging and trench the width between the rear wheels and a little longer than the tank itself and about 18" deep. Pulled the RV over the trench and dropped the tank without jacking it up.

Using ratchet straps works in both removing and lifting it back up.

To drop it, hook the straps to the frame and leave slack under the tank and then ratchet the straps snug against the tank. Use some blocking under the tank and release the straps to the blocking. Ratchet up a little. Then lower your blocking and repeat until its down. Putting up is the reverse. Whatever you do, do not release the straps with out some kind of block or it'll drop pretty quick.

My tank had about 20 gals in it and didn't drain it till it was down.

Hope this helps.

Sunadan · 09-08-2021, 10:52 PM

Juano, Using straps are obviously the best solution at point for you, but when your tank is down is obviously a good time to locate a hatch. I see you have had a lot of smart-ass comments and some good advice. I already knew the exact thickness of the cheap chipboard they used for the floor and used a 4" Dremel saw and cut about a millimeter short for safety reasons ( For those comments from the fire chief) and then used an oscillating saw. The hardest part was locating the exact area and I just got lucky. It would have been a lot easier to do when the tank is down, and safe (For the Fire Chief).
A good example video of your problem is well portraid by Rufus N Dufus, Chico (bless his departed soul) display how he lowered his tank using straps. Here is the You tube link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7kVEe77n7E&t=1s

Juano · 09-09-2021, 12:17 AM

Thanks again for all your help guys, it’s really a relief for a second time rv owner. First timer was a Toyota mini motorhome so almost doesn’t fit in this big rv troubleshooting section and as we know, Toyotas never breaks

Tomorrow is the day, I’ll be arriving with a fire fighter squad, ratchet straps, a jigsaw, new fuel lines, fuses and the fuel pump order at the auto part in hand, just in case the fuel pump is dead.

What I’m still thinking is, how possible it’s that this Bounder was parked in that same spot 10 years ago in a driving condition and now, with the in tank fuel pump submerged in fuel somehow it got broken? Hard to believe right? I’m suspecting that something more is going on, like rodents chewing the fuel pump wiring, etc.

The first and last time I was in that town with my brother trying to troubleshoot the fuel pump we had a hard time figuring out where the pump wiring was located. Now I’m thinking that finding them and trying to connect it to a battery can be a good way to know if the pump is dead or alive so any help to locate the wires will be really appreciated.

Thanks again,
Juano.

TandW · 09-09-2021, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunadan

Juano, Using straps are obviously the best solution at point for you, but when your tank is down is obviously a good time to locate a hatch. I see you have had a lot of smart-ass comments and some good advice. I already knew the exact thickness of the cheap chipboard they used for the floor and used a 4" Dremel saw and cut about a millimeter short for safety reasons ( For those comments from the fire chief) and then used an oscillating saw. The hardest part was locating the exact area and I just got lucky. It would have been a lot easier to do when the tank is down, and safe (For the Fire Chief).

A good example video of your problem is well portraid by Rufus N Dufus, Chico (bless his departed soul) display how he lowered his tank using straps. Here is the You tube link