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11-01-2021, 01:02 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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Emergency Pre Purchase Inspection - Fiberglass Roof
I've just traveled to see a 2003 40' American Coach. I get on the roof and find that much of the glass roof is not adhered to the substrate. It's not soft underneath. Everything is firmly attached, seals look intact, no cracks... I suppose I had expected that it would be completely adhered. Is this normal for a glass roof?
I imagine this has been discussed endlessly but... I've been awake for 24 hours now so, I'd appreciate some input.
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11-01-2021, 03:54 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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After some searching, I get the impression that this is a molded fiberglass roof and is not bonded to the entire lower layers. That this is normal.
I suppose if anyone could speak to cold weather operation - the current owner is skeptical that the RV water system can be used below freezing, even with the furnace running. He admittedly has never used the furnace. The 2003 Manual available from the American Coach website calls out two furnaces as a standard feature and has a table of thermostat settings required, down to 5 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent plumbing problems. Does it stand to reason that if I have a functional furnace, this table applies_
Turns out I have way more questions than I thought I would, e.g., How Shore Power, Generator, and Inverter live together. Are they all protected if one or more are on at the same time_ Does the pusher alternator charge house batteries_ ...and so on.
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11-01-2021, 05:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 8,134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhere
I've just traveled to see a 2003 40' American Coach. I get on the roof and find that much of the glass roof is not adhered to the substrate. It's not soft underneath. Everything is firmly attached, seals look intact, no cracks... I suppose I had expected that it would be completely adhered. Is this normal for a glass roof?
I imagine this has been discussed endlessly but... I've been awake for 24 hours now so, I'd appreciate some input.
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They are not a layered fiberglass like a boat it is a fiberglass panel glued to the roof structure. I would say there is a 100% chance every fiberglass roof has a air bubble or 2.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
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11-01-2021, 09:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: N.E. Florida
Posts: 1,343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhere
After some searching, I get the impression that this is a molded fiberglass roof and is not bonded to the entire lower layers. That this is normal.
I suppose if anyone could speak to cold weather operation - the current owner is skeptical that the RV water system can be used below freezing, even with the furnace running. He admittedly has never used the furnace. The 2003 Manual available from the American Coach website calls out two furnaces as a standard feature and has a table of thermostat settings required, down to 5 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent plumbing problems. Does it stand to reason that if I have a functional furnace, this table applies_
Turns out I have way more questions than I thought I would, e.g., How Shore Power, Generator, and Inverter live together. Are they all protected if one or more are on at the same time_ Does the pusher alternator charge house batteries_ ...and so on.
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Agree that the roof is normal.
Re: your other questions the Eagle has heated tanks so as long as you are operating your furnaces their are vents down below that will keep your plumbing from freezing. However if you are on city water in cold climates you will likely need some tape that warms up the hose....I live in Florida so I do not know what it is actually called.
Shore Power, Inverter/Converter and Genny all play nice together. Shore Power/Genny connection is managed by Transfer Switch. Generator takes precedence over shore power to allow you to use 120 AC while not connected to Shore Power. Cut off Genny, connect shore power and the transfer switch will connect to the shore power source after disconnecting from the Genny. Inverter will give you 120 AC when not connected to shore power or running the Genny. Inverter will not power your Air Conditioners but will power virtually everything else.
Same 120 Volt AC breakers protect your systems regardless of power source.
Battery charging is controlled by the Battery Control Center (BCC). Once the alternator has fully charged your chassis (starting) battery the charging will be switched to your house battery bank.
Good luck in your decision!
__________________
DaveS
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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11-02-2021, 05:49 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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It was a night of near hive inducing anxiety but I did buy it. No doubt it will need a couple things looked into but overall it's doing well. I do have three more current questions:
One of the furnaces was replaced by a dealer during the last sale. The forward furnace can be controlled by a thermostat in the forward most high cabinet near the door. It mentioned zones, so I suppose it might have two remote sensors? How do I control zone 2? The zone/mode button seems to switch between gas and electric. Press and hold?
The water pump seems like it's drawing air. Water continues to come out but, always with lots of air pockets blasting out too. The tank sensor has three pips lit. I suppose the most likely answer is that the sensor is just wrong and the tank is nearly empty? But I thought I'd throw this out there incase someone recognized it as an obvious easy answer.
How do I run the leveling? Does the engine have to be on? The power button did nothing last night but I had had 2 hours sleep in the last 48 so, I didnt try beyond two button presses.
Thanks
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11-02-2021, 06:00 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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Oh my mistake, one more question: Driving with the furnaces on? I tried it and felt like I was smelling a lot of burned propane and feeling a lot of cold air moving around. I don't know if it was blowing hot or not but the burned propane smell had me a bit nervous.
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11-02-2021, 08:11 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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My mistake again, zone button works. ...although the rear furnace made two bursts of fast clicking and then shutdown before reaching the set temp so... might need some attention.
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11-02-2021, 08:27 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 88
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Congrats on your new purchase! You should be able to use your propane heat while underway. We have done it many times. But you should not smell propane or burning after the heaters have started. Have you checked your propane gauge on tank under the coach to see if its running low? May have been air in the system if coach has been sitting for a while. We usually light a stove burner to purge the line of any residual air.
Our thermostat had lost its settings and I had to reprogram it so that zone 1 and 2 had gas furnace selected. Sounds like you got both of your zones working though
__________________
2011 Fleetwood Discovery 40G
Freightliner XC Chassis
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11-02-2021, 02:49 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC182
Congrats on your new purchase!
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Thanks, so far so good.
Crazy question... Anyone know how to access the rear furnace? It's got a whole panel that looks like a basement door but, no latch. I'm not sure how to open/remove it. I haven't gotten under there to look but I thought I would ask while waiting for some work to finish.
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11-09-2021, 03:26 PM
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#10
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Member
Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club American Coach Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 80
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thermostats and furnaces for 2007 Tradition
I believe our front thermostat above the stairs controls both ACs and both furnaces, and is Attwood, I think. I was also told if we had to replace a heater, it may not work with the current thermostat and require a dedicated thermostat. So you may look for another thermostat somewhere close to the new unit.
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11-09-2021, 04:21 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 282
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Lighting a burner on stove to purge the line is definitely *Old School* technoligy but it sure does and can work !
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11-10-2021, 04:37 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genevatexan
I believe our front thermostat above the stairs controls both ACs and both furnaces, and is Attwood, I think. I was also told if we had to replace a heater, it may not work with the current thermostat and require a dedicated thermostat. So you may look for another thermostat somewhere close to the new unit. 
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Once I got some sleep I noticed that 'mode' and 'zone' were two separate buttons, yeah, the one thermostat controls both furnaces correctly.
Unfortunately the rear furnace struggles to stay lit after it runs for a while. It lights reliably cold but if it has to run for a more than five minutes, the flame starts going out and it attempts to relight... sometimes successfully, sometimes after three failed attempts it stops due to the error.
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11-10-2021, 11:48 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 14
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Mine has self tap screws on the bottom of the door you mentioned facing up
Hinge is on top of door.
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11-11-2021, 05:25 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIZBOB
Mine has self tap screws on the bottom of the door you mentioned facing up
Hinge is on top of door.
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Yep, that's exactly what's happening, Thanks.
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