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Old 01-05-2016, 02:27 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Why the positive side? The CR-V is a simple (not so simple to do) fuse removal. I built a disconnect circuit for it.
The relay would need to be hooked to the positive side because it needs power to run the relay when the battery is disconnected. At least that is what I understand. If I am wrong, someone please correct me. I am ready to pull the trigger on a tow dolly.
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Old 01-05-2016, 02:41 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
I posted on another thread to see if there are any options for the replay on the negative side.
You are making this too complicated. If you need to disconnect the negative side for towing, just put a $20 battery-mounted disconnect on the battery and spend 15 second popping the hood when you hook/unhook. That's far less hassle than a tow dolly, and far more reliable than installing a continuous duty relay that has to deal with starting current.

If you're designing a circuit to remove power for towing, you don't need to make it so that it's the negative circuit that is isolated. The reason the instructions say to remove the negative terminal is that any time you remove the power cables from a car's battery, you should always always always remove the negative first. The reason you do this is so that if the tool you are using to loosening the battery attachment strikes the vehicle's body (which is attached to the negative/ground side of the battery), there's no sparking if the negative is removed first.

I'm an electrical engineer, and this is all I would install:
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Old 01-05-2016, 03:13 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
The relay would need to be hooked to the positive side because it needs power to run the relay when the battery is disconnected. At least that is what I understand. If I am wrong, someone please correct me. I am ready to pull the trigger on a tow dolly.
I just purchased my EZE-TOW dolly and did a first tow of my 2013 Elantra from OKC to Georgia and back. It would be a great expensive to make my Elantra 4 wheel down towable (would include a drive train disconnect, something I don't think the resale would be good for, plus all the other requirements) My GF and I loaded it the first time and it took a few times to get it figured out and lined up. I still need to ajust the wheel strap cinches slightly to get them perfectly centered. We just stowed the ramps in the trunk instead of trying to put them on the dolly tongue with the car loaded. I also have a 4 bike carrier on the hitch and there is no issue with room around the hitch. The second time it was much faster and we did it in the early morning dark. She lined it up perfectly the first time and I got the straps right on and cinched down. I check the straps at any stops just for piece of mind and so far have found no issues or loosening. I even had to do a short back up maneuver at a gas station, with no issues ( the EZE tow has a lock out pin for the surge brakes if you need it for backing short distances) I wouldn't go crazy backing but the dynamics of the EZE Tow make it possible for a short distance and little to no turning. The dolly allows total visibility of my RV lites and has full trailer lites on it as well. Overall I am extremely pleased with my EZE tow dolly and I didn't even need to unhook it at my Camp site and still had plenty of room to park the Elantra in front of the Bounder. Is it as easy as 4 down hook up and unhook, No, but it was not really that big a deal and towed our Elantra very well and much cheaper than it would cost to convert or buy a new vehicle. One thing I think i will add as a result of reading this forum, I will buy some large cutting boards and either epoxy them or screw them down to the dolly plate wear the car tires sit. I think it will make it easier to line up and also give the tires a solid flat surface for the straps to compress them on. Just a thought to decrease any tire wear from the wheel straps. I recommend the EZE TOW dolly for anyone not able to 4 down or doesn't want to go thru the expense of converting a car to 4 down capable.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:43 AM   #60
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Towing 4 down with a proper tow bar and aux-brake system means you are towing the car plus about 50 to 100 pounds, and when you stop ALL WHEELS are assisting in the stop.. It just does not get better than this, Plus it is the easiest hookup of any tow system.

The downside is that not all cars can be towed four down Make sure yours can by googleing Remco Towin USA and clicking on the STORE link. Then enter your car's specifications on teh left and the main farme is yor answer

Dolly towing you only have the dolly wheels assisting when you break, Much harder to align for hookup and up to about 1500 pounds more to Tow.

MOST gassers are very limited in what they can tow, My Intruder for example can only tow 4,000 pounds.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:21 AM   #61
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Towing 4 down with a proper tow bar and aux-brake system means you are towing the car plus about 50 to 100 pounds, and when you stop ALL WHEELS are assisting in the stop.. It just does not get better than this, Plus it is the easiest hookup of any tow system.


Dolly towing you only have the dolly wheels assisting when you break, Much harder to align for hookup and up to about 1500 pounds more to Tow.

MOST gassers are very limited in what they can tow, My Intruder for example can only tow 4,000 pounds.
All good info except the 1500 lb dolly.

400 to 600 pounds is more in the range of most dolly's out there.

I pick up the front of my dolly and drop it in the ball.
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:46 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
The relay would need to be hooked to the positive side because it needs power to run the relay when the battery is disconnected. At least that is what I understand. If I am wrong, someone please correct me. I am ready to pull the trigger on a tow dolly.
I agree with cwsqbm. But, being a techie guy, hook the coil of the relay through your cabin switch to both terminals of the battery. The relay wouldn't care then. Don't forget to get a continuous duty high current relay.

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Old 01-06-2016, 09:22 PM   #63
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Hello Everyone,
I often see the dolly Vs. 4down discussion but have not seen or heard from those that trailer their autos. I see both covered and open trailers being pulled by motorhomes. I would like to hear the advantages and disadvantages of trailering. I'm sure storage of a trailer can be an issue but it can also provide an opportunity to carry other than autos.
Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated.
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CoachC
A little bit of an old thread, but I tow on a trailer. Here's why:

1. The trailer cost about the same as getting a car set up for towing.

2. I now have a trailer to haul my tractor and to haul hay.

3. I have a nice VW TDI jetta and a subaru outback that can't be flat towed (I also have a 5 speed accord but my daughter has it at college and I have a Silverado, but haven't got it set up to flat tow).

4. I can back up as easy as backing up a boat.

5. The trailer tows like it is not even there.

6. The trailer and VW (or subaru) are less than 5000 lbs so I don't need a weight distributing hitch.

Next time I have a little cash, I will get the silverado set up to flat tow.
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Old 01-07-2016, 11:21 AM   #64
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dolly /flat tow

something to consider

some vehicles still add the mileage on the odometer even when being towed
front wheel drive would not add mileage on a dolly


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Old 01-08-2016, 09:17 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by roadster27 View Post
something to consider

some vehicles still add the mileage on the odometer even when being towed
front wheel drive would not add mileage on a dolly


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'37 Packard? Couldn't resist the sarcasm. I don't know of any modern cars that will. I wish to be corrected if someone has knowledge of this happening. Our cars today are so electronic heavy. I don't know of any with a direct connection cable to the tranny as in the oldin days.

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Old 01-08-2016, 11:41 AM   #66
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Our Equinox only requires the pulling of a fuse (which is in a switch now) to disable almost all the electrical loads in the car. That kills the odometer updates to the computer. But we still have DC voltage for the Auxiliary Brake unit.
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