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Merriottr · 10-30-2024, 05:35 PM

Clicking under hood from fuse box while on shore power?

exrench · 10-31-2024, 06:40 AM

Probably it is your BIRD trying to equalize the state of charge in the house battery system and the chassis battery. I am guessing the chassis battery is due for replacement or the chassis battery has a drain on it if the clicking is frequent.

Merriottr · 11-13-2024, 03:29 PM

20004 Bounder clicking under hood when connected to shore power. All 3 batteries have power. (Test with 12v light) tested the what looks like a capacitor in fuse box under hood when it clicks it has power the second click it does not same with battery disconnect connection in the box and the actual item clicking behind the fuse board.

Merriottr · 11-13-2024, 03:39 PM

I don’t know what to do next clicking continues? Any help would be appreciated?

MikenDebbie · 11-13-2024, 03:51 PM

Is your Bounder on a Ford chassis or a workhorse chassis?

exrench · 11-13-2024, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merriottr

20004 Bounder clicking under hood when connected to shore power. All 3 batteries have power. (Test with 12v light) tested the what looks like a capacitor in fuse box under hood when it clicks it has power the second click it does not same with battery disconnect connection in the box and the actual item clicking behind the fuse board.

A test light will not indicate the CONDITION of a battery. The chassis battery is charged separate from the house batteries. The clicking you hear is when the device you hear is directing the charge to either the chassis battery or to the house batteries. One of the batteries is needing to be charged and that is what is happening when you hear that click. The battery is either failing or it is being discharged by something in the motorhome.

Merriottr · 11-17-2024, 02:40 PM

Workhouse

Merriottr · 02-05-2025, 06:35 PM

After the clicking stopped I now have no shore power which I had a few weeks ago. I replaced the RV CORD AND extension to power box and test all the way to junction box whereRV romex meets the cord 125 volts ;30amp system. Pretty sure all batteries are dead now I hooked up battery booster to start RV DC lights lit up and everything ran for about 1-2 minutes with booster hooked up then it died. And I check all the connections it fire up again and ran for less than30 seconds. The booster continued to give power but the RV not start and the shore power does not come in to the RV passed junction box. Some said something about BIRD was causing the original clicking I am at a complete loss. I was reading about the battery disconnect switch’s it says to leave them on there real is no on/off it is a rocker type switch how do you know which way is on?

exrench · 02-06-2025, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merriottr

After the clicking stopped I now have no shore power which I had a few weeks ago. I replaced the RV CORD AND extension to power box and test all the way to junction box whereRV romex meets the cord 125 volts ;30amp system. Pretty sure all batteries are dead now I hooked up battery booster to start RV DC lights lit up and everything ran for about 1-2 minutes with booster hooked up then it died. And I check all the connections it fire up again and ran for less than30 seconds. The booster continued to give power but the RV not start and the shore power does not come in to the RV passed junction box. Some said something about BIRD was causing the original clicking I am at a complete loss. I was reading about the battery disconnect switch’s it says to leave them on there real is no on/off it is a rocker type switch how do you know which way is on?

1. Why did you replace the shore power plug and cord?
2. How many of these rocker switches are there and where are they?

Merriottr · 02-06-2025, 11:27 AM

I replaced the power cord because I was going to only replace male plug because of corrosion generally not looking good. When I removed plug and pulled back the insulation the copper wire were all scorched with burned and black streaks I cut back bit further and the damage seem to be through. So I replaced the whole cord & plug.

The Electrical disconnect switches are above the door clearly marked Aux and main. Note to the right is the kitchen slide out control.

My thought is the batteries are so dead it won’t start and when started it with boost it only ran long enough for the BIRD rely to trip and shut everything down.

I don’t understand how I have no power in the RV when connect to shore power. And again power coming all the way to junction box of the new cord. Double checked the connection all
3 wires good and tight.

US1 · 02-06-2025, 11:50 AM

Did you check your transfer switch, if you have one?

The 2 switches at your door should be ON when you push the top of the rocker and OFF when pushed on the bottom. Do you hear the solenoids click when switching those on/off?

exrench · 02-06-2025, 12:19 PM

With dead batteries, you will not hear any relays or anything else. The transfer switch is suspect if the main 120 volt breakers are not tripped. That transfer switch allows the generator to be running while the shore-power cord is plugged in. It in turn feeds the 120 ac circuits in the coach. The convertor is fed from a 120 ac circuit and it will charge the batteries and keep the batteries charged. The transfer switch contains a bunch of contactors which are a frequent source of trouble which necessitates replacement of the switch. I would look for the transfer switch behind the main breaker and fuse panel.
When you do find the transfer switch, be certain the shore power cable is stowed, such that it can't be connected to shore power while you are working on the transfer switch. This VERY IMPORTANT.

Merriottr · 02-06-2025, 04:11 PM

I went in the BIRD Last night and disconnected the coach batteries P6 P 7 just the rely red wires. Hooked up a battery charger to the chassis battery it would go up to about 10 amps then errored out (normally means to me the battery is bad or too low for my little old blacken decker charge) so I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight. Put a little tough meter on the battery terminals afternoon it showed about 10vl so I hooked my Gooloo battery booster back up to chassis battery and started the RV ENGINE up. So I waited a few minutes and tried to start generator from the dash starter after 2 tries it fire up. Within 2 more minutes the overhead AC kick on… (just one) have not turned the other one on yet to test.

Keep in mind this all started with the clicking sound of the solenoid under the hood then batteries dying then no shore power coming into the RV.

The power center display says 14.0 on main and the accessories no display assuming because the wires are dis connected.

I am not sure what to expect when I shut everything down with the shore power magically start working or is the still a problem with: Automatic transfer switch

Electrical disconnection switches

Solenoid in battery power box

Battery Isolation Manager

Merriottr · 02-06-2025, 05:13 PM

Okay turned off the RV engine the generator cutoff within 1 minute. Cutting all power. Tried to restart the engine with RV chassis battery (no booster) it would not fully turn over battery show 13.68 Volts on display when cranked twice it drop to around 10 volts.

Hooked up shore to 20 amp adapter some interior lights are on very dim not full brightness (assuming the converter is not successfully converting AC to DV l? Thoughts?

I hooked up to fully 30 amp using new dog bone and see if that makes a difference at all.
I did last night it was zero power with that hook up.

Still reduced 12 volt power to lights.

110 power outlets show 124 volts.

Why did the generator cutoff without the RV engine running?

So is the inverter bad or the ATS OR still possible the solenoid under the dash?

I am an amateur so any help is greatly appreciated.