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Old 05-27-2014, 10:25 AM   #29
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Our coach is so new that I'm only marginally able to reply on this.. it works great and we love, love, love the space it provides.

One ADVANTAGE that I see to this slide compared to our previous RV and those that I've seen is that with the Fleetwood FWS, they integrate a nice system that locks the FWS in place after retracting... There is a lock on the front and back side that really snugs things in tight, and that plus the key-activated button pad gives a real sense of security of that wall staying put while underway.
The full wall slide was a deal breaker for us a well, we were close on a Newmar Mountain Aire, but in 2012 it was not available with a full wall. We did have a problem with ours in the first year...it starting coming out all on its' own just as we were starting to come down a steep grade on Hi Way 2! Those locks kept the top in, but the bottom came out about 2-3 inches and the grinding sound from the gears being stripped was very loud. The dealer said it was a big job to fix, and said the issue was with that key control and the circuit board?? Having the wall open up like that is so nice inside, but like everything there is usually a trade-off. Years before there were no slide leaks, gears being stripped, motors jamming up etc because well, there were no slides!
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:26 AM   #30
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2006 Discovery FWS Issue

Just this past week we noticed that after opening our slide that the rear part got almost all of the way out but failed to drop down. When I retracted the slide I heard a pop in the rear area as if something had bound it up. I checked where I could to see if anything had become stuck in the slide area. Nothing was found. When I closed the slide I noticed that the slide did not retract all the way in at the bottom rear of the slide. The locks went into position fine.

Any thoughts on what my problem may be.

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #31
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Hopsplace,
I suspect your back motor "jumped the track" and is now out of sych with the other motors. You'll have to determine why it bound up on the way out and have to reset the drive on that track so it is even with the others.

CBones,
I just went out to our MH and unplugged the shore power, restarted the engine, and I could hear the inverter kick in and watched the coach battery voltage go right up to well over 13.5 volts after less than a minute. So, the inverter reset fixed the problem. My DW and I discussed this of course and suspect a power outage about 1 month ago may have zapped the inverter circuitry.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:52 AM   #32
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The only problem we ever had was when DW forgot to move the vacuum cleaner head which got pinched between the very rear of the slide and the wall, just momentarily.
Put us "out of sync"...other than that, it's been fine.

Jim
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:05 AM   #33
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Hopsplace,
I suspect your back motor "jumped the track" and is now out of sych with the other motors. You'll have to determine why it bound up on the way out and have to reset the drive on that track so it is even with the others.

CBones,
I just went out to our MH and unplugged the shore power, restarted the engine, and I could hear the inverter kick in and watched the coach battery voltage go right up to well over 13.5 volts after less than a minute. So, the inverter reset fixed the problem. My DW and I discussed this of course and suspect a power outage about 1 month ago may have zapped the inverter circuitry.

Thanks again.
Glad I could help!
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:17 AM   #34
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Just this past week we noticed that after opening our slide that the rear part got almost all of the way out but failed to drop down. When I retracted the slide I heard a pop in the rear area as if something had bound it up. I checked where I could to see if anything had become stuck in the slide area. Nothing was found. When I closed the slide I noticed that the slide did not retract all the way in at the bottom rear of the slide. The locks went into position fine.

Any thoughts on what my problem may be.

Thanks in advance
As was said before, you are going to need to see what caused the pop. The synchronization is actually a pretty simple procedure, but it will require a trip to the dealer. There is a special control unit that is used to run each of the 3 motors individually. This is a dealer only device. Once they reprogram the motors, they will lock the setting (which basically only counts the number of turns on the motor.) I am not sure which coach you have, but if it is a 40G, or any 2 level FWS, there are some special things to look for. Basically, a 2 level FWS is any FWS that does not have a flat floor, but rather you will notice a very small step somewhere along the slide, usually towards the rear of the coach to accommodate the clearance around the engine. Report back with your findings.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:48 AM   #35
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Thanks. My coach is a 39V and I do have the step discussed.

Thanks to all for the info thus far.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:48 AM   #36
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As was said before, you are going to need to see what caused the pop. The synchronization is actually a pretty simple procedure, but it will require a trip to the dealer. There is a special control unit that is used to run each of the 3 motors individually. This is a dealer only device. Once they reprogram the motors, they will lock the setting (which basically only counts the number of turns on the motor.) I am not sure which coach you have, but if it is a 40G, or any 2 level FWS, there are some special things to look for. Basically, a 2 level FWS is any FWS that does not have a flat floor, but rather you will notice a very small step somewhere along the slide, usually towards the rear of the coach to accommodate the clearance around the engine. Report back with your findings.

The devise is called a tech pendant and can be purchased for around $600 bucks the pop could be a gear slipping the rail.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:55 AM   #37
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Thanks. My coach is a 39V and I do have the step discussed.

Thanks to all for the info thus far.
Carefully examine the weld on the bracket that attaches to the rear slide rail. It has been known to let loose as that bracket is longer than the other 2. This puts increased stress on that bracket. Additionally, as the slide is closing, you need to examine the gap between the rear of the slide and the stationary wall at the rear of the coach. There have been cases of insufficient clearance and the slide hits the rear wall too tight which causes that bracket to be over stressed. The motors in these FWS's are incredibly powerful, and I have seen them bend 3/8" steel with nary a problem. In any event before the dealer attempts to just resynchronize the motors examine those areas carefully, as it will only happen again over time. If it is a clearance issue, it is really an easy fix. You only need to change the slide wiper from one that pops on the metal track to one that screws on the edge, and believe it or not that usually is enough to increase the clearance. If you look carefully at the area, you will see how that makes sense. Once again good luck and report your findings.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:59 AM   #38
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The devise is called a tech pendant and can be purchased for around $600 bucks the pop could be a gear slipping the rail.
That must be new, as when I wanted to purchase it, they informed me that it was a dealer only item.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:37 PM   #39
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That must be new, as when I wanted to purchase it, they informed me that it was a dealer only item.

From a power gear distributor about 2 years ago
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:46 PM   #40
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The devise is called a tech pendant and can be purchased for around $600 bucks the pop could be a gear slipping the rail.
I bought one to keep with me in case of a problem on the road. BTW the newer models like my not so new now 2011 FWS have 4 motors.

Eric
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:09 PM   #41
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In another post, there is an RV tech that says he has seen many full wall slide issues. Fleetwood has many models with full wall slides, so I hope to get many responses. In any event after a conversation with Doug Haas (senior engineer at fleetwood) he stated to me that he feels that the FWS is well engineered and they have very little problems. I am just curious to hear from those that have had any issues.

I had one issue that took Fleetwood a little while to figure out. The frame that the wall closes against was slightly bowed, and this was causing the slide box to shift a tiny bit when it would fully retract. After a while this broke the weld on the rear most slide rail upright. They would weld the bracket and it would just break again until they found the frame alignment issue. Once that was corrected, no more problems in hundreds of extension/retraction cycles. I am absolutely amazed in the strength of the motors. The piece that would break is 3/8" steel!

Now that Monaco and Holiday are part of the family with Fleetwood maybe they will offer a full wall operated with hydraulic rams? Monaco uses rams @ about 1500 PSI to move their FWS. I haven't had any issues yet but it still looks weird seeing a 28 ft. wall move. We love the room a FWS gives you.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:06 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by hopsplace View Post
Just this past week we noticed that after opening our slide that the rear part got almost all of the way out but failed to drop down. When I retracted the slide I heard a pop in the rear area as if something had bound it up. I checked where I could to see if anything had become stuck in the slide area. Nothing was found. When I closed the slide I noticed that the slide did not retract all the way in at the bottom rear of the slide. The locks went into position fine.

Any thoughts on what my problem may be.

Thanks in advance
My 2007 Bounder made a pop then continued in but didn't sound right after that. I found the inside rollers had broken in two. see attachments as you can see there are two sets of rollers the one on the outside which are visible and two on the inner end of the beam. There are some notes of the beam picture when I sent this to powergear. Awhile after the pop the pinion- small gear on the drive for that beam would slip/jumpteeth on the beam when bringing in the room. I was able buy parts and fix it myself but not easy.
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