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Old 06-02-2021, 10:15 AM   #1
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Furnace problem

Used our furnace thu nite the 27th worked great two nites later it came on just fine except no heat then it shut down. Tried again same thing no heat and it shut down, blower is working gas turns on but no flame. Any ideas to where to start looking first ? 2003 southwind 32V
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Old 06-02-2021, 10:25 AM   #2
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It would probably help if we knew the mane and model of the furnace.

Are you certain that you're not out of propane?

How have you determined that the gas comes on? Are you getting a spark?

Is your 12V supply high enough to run the blower at full speed? If not, the sail switch may not be closing, although, that probably not allow the gas to turn on.

Is it possible that insects (usually wasps or spiders) have not clogged up the outside vent?

Joel
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:32 PM   #3
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It’s a Atwood 8535-iv-DCLP
Do you mean vent or exhaust. I can’t find the sail switch. There are two switches one is the on off switch the other has a blue wire that goes to the circuit board and a red wire going to the on off switch. This switch is fully enclosed with no moving outside parts.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:13 PM   #4
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1)Thermostat on Heat...closes
2)DC goes back to furnace ---starts fan (via TDR)
***RED wire from On/Off Goes to TDR then to motor/BLUE wire from thermostat goes to TDR then to Ground Yellow Wire
3)Fan comes up to 75% speed....moves the paddle for sail switch closing it
4)That allows DC to go to circuit board for Gas valve and Spark electrode
5)Spark electrode fires CLICK, CLICK, CLICK igniting the gas flame
***Flame generates a electric current that circuit board senses ---prove flame lit (spark electrode is return for that milliamp signal)

SO..
Obstructed intake/exhaust vents
Low DC voltage..fan not up to speed
TDR (Timed Delay Relay) failed.....DC from thermostat allows DC to Fan Motor
Sail Switch stuck closed....dirty or paddle is binding against metal
Spark Electrode dirty...soot/carbon
Spark Electrode high voltage wire loose
Circuit Board faulty

See pg 10 for 85-IV wiring (local sense with Timed Delay Relay)
See pg 30 for all of the possible issues....blow runs/no flame
See pg 41 for exploded view of 8500-IV series
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...anual-2004.pdf
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:25 PM   #5
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I don't know that furnace. The sail switch will be a fairly large paddle connected to a switch. It is intended to prevent the furnace from operating if there isn't air flowing into the ducts. It will be located very near where the air duct connects to the furnace.


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Old 06-02-2021, 04:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Birder View Post
I don't know that furnace. The sail switch will be a fairly large paddle connected to a switch. It is intended to prevent the furnace from operating if there isn't air flowing into the ducts. It will be located very near where the air duct connects to the furnace.


Joel
The wires for the sail switch on an Atwood come out the top or side, but the switch itself is under the outside blower cover.

I want to know how he knows the gas is coming on? Can you smell it? Hear it?

If the gas valve is coming on, letting gas through, and you can hear the ignition click, you should get a couple second poof of flame. The gas valve will not stay on more than a second or two if it does not sense flame from the igniter electrode.

I had one once that would go through the entire cycle, open the gas valve, and didn't ignite until the 3rd spark, Shot about a 3 foot flame out of the exhaust, then went out.

I had another one that would not run on battery power, but if connected to shore power and full 13+ volts would run fine. Finally tore into it and 2 fins on the fan (plastic) were broke off. Needed to run full power to trip the sail switch. Replaced with steel fan. No more problems.

But from the sounds of it, since it was working, then suddenly quit, I would put my money on the time delay relay.

Also, pull the burner out and check condition. They tend to burn through and then the flame is not consistent and even.

And while the burner is out, pull the igniter, shut the LP off at the tank and try to fire it. See if you get a spark. The igniter is very sensitive to the gap. 1/8 inch, no more, no less. If you get a spark, clean both probes with steel wool and make sure the gap is right.
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Old 06-02-2021, 04:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithd7 View Post
Itís a Atwood 8535-iv-DCLP
Do you mean vent or exhaust. I canít find the sail switch. There are two switches one is the on off switch the other has a blue wire that goes to the circuit board and a red wire going to the on off switch. This switch is fully enclosed with no moving outside parts.
The sail switch is inside the blower compartment. It will have two wires going to it. Some come out the top and you have to take the front fan cover off to get at it, some have two screws and just pull out the front cover.
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Old 06-02-2021, 04:48 PM   #8
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One more item that no one has mentioned is the High Limit Switch. It is designed to shut the furnace off if it get too hot. On an Atwood I believe it it is on the back. I've never had one fail but it is easy to check. Access the back of the furnace is the hard part. Usually you have to take a drawer or a panel off to get at the back. It is just a half dollar size disc with 2 wires. It is normally closed, meaning no resistance to it. A VOM should read zero or close to it. You can also just put a jumper between the 2 wires which completes the circuit. It should only be open if the furnace is overheated. Since this one is cold, of it is open it has failed. But again, I've checked them but never had a failed one on a furnace I worked on.
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Old 06-03-2021, 10:20 AM   #9
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I had the circuit board checked and it is bad, will see if that solves the problem.
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Old 06-05-2021, 11:42 AM   #10
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put new board in and it still will not lite. I'll try to check the electrode
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Old 06-09-2021, 08:47 AM   #11
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Many of the Atwood furnaces have a red indicator light on the circuit board that will flash when there is a trouble code detected. Check the trouble code via the number of flashes being displayed after shut down. This will narrow down your problem and solution.
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Old 06-16-2021, 05:43 PM   #12
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update on furnace problem, thanks to all that replied to my post. The board was bad as was the electrode, replaced electrode and bingo!!! it works, thanks again for all the help.
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