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Old 02-18-2020, 02:50 PM   #1
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Fuse Location for Front Shades, Advice

Been having some past problems with the blackout shade hesitation, or having to push switch several times. Finally died, fortunately was in the up position. Now the last few times the sunscreen shade started doing the same thing.

Got the wire harness off the back of switch and seems there is no power to it and the sunscreen shade appears dead now. Since it is directly above the headlight switch I'm hopeful I don't need to go there.

Searching I have seen a couple of posts that the fuse is in the BCC marked as "Spare" and location is P-7. Can anyone confirm? It was on a 2008 Bounder and I'm sure REV changed stuff around since.
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:55 AM   #2
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Update since I got back out to work on this after a large infestation of grandkids.

Fleetwood confirms that the fuse is in the BBC but doesn't say which one and it isn't marked.

The original symptoms were intermittent operation of the front blind and sunscreen, then both stopped totally.

I have pulled all fuses and verified that they are good both visually and with tester. I have confirmed that all fuses have incoming power to them. I have reset any fuses that are re-setable on the outside chance that maybe...

I have tested for power at the plug to the switch and have found zero voltage at any pin, with the ignition in both the off position and in the on position.
All other dash functions and switches work.

Any ideas?

EDIT: The BBC is a RV Custom Product F73-1020
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Old 02-28-2020, 03:44 PM   #3
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Try connecting a 12 vdc power supply directly to the 2 wire connector to the motor. This will confirm your motor. Remember you might have to change polarity to get the motor to go down or up....on my coach you have to have the ignition switch to the left ACC to work the sun visors.


My guess is you have a bad switch. Do you have 2 sunvisor switches or 1? My coach has two switches. Could be just dirty internal switch contacts. Try spraying CRC contact cleaner (Walmart Auto section)inside the rocker and terminal contacts. Also could be a "binding" problem with the shade...keep looking! and good luch and update please.


Keep in mind there might be a dash fuse block like In have behind the "dog House" center floor of the dash. Losts of fuses and cables there too. Check.
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:11 PM   #4
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Yeah, if I can't find any power to the switch I'm going to try to jury rig something. I have an idea for power supply but I have yet to figure out how to get to the shade. My dash likely won't survive my lard butt sitting on it.

I doubt it is the switch, unlikely both would die at the same time.
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Old 02-29-2020, 03:08 AM   #5
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Okay having 2 switches not working and I agree it's not a switch problem.



After looking further into this issue and to better understand my coach electric wiring, systems I found another fuse box under the dash, behind the dog house swing out door and not sure where your DASH fuse box is located...see this image of my coach dash electrical. In my case the visor power comes from the dash fuse box then to the visor along with other electrical connections NOT included on the BCC- see other fuse protection items associated with this fuse box....Freightliner Chassis drawing.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DASH Fuse Box.png
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ID:	276510
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Old 02-29-2020, 03:19 AM   #6
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Click image for larger version

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Old 02-29-2020, 10:20 AM   #7
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Thanks. I'll keep looking.
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Old 03-29-2020, 03:10 AM   #8
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Any resolution ?
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Old 03-29-2020, 06:05 AM   #9
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Just use a multimeter check for resistance no need to pull fuse for a visual conformation that’s a time killer. Check all fuse box locations ie: under the hood, on the floor under the dash and even the BCC. Hope you locate you trouble soon.
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Old 03-29-2020, 06:35 AM   #10
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Fuse location for front shades

For what it is worth we bought our 2008 Safari 6 months ago and neither power sunshade worked. Having done electrical troubleshooting for a long time I assumed there was no way both shades could fail at the same time so it had to be a feed/switch issue (I also didnít want to tear up ceiling and sit on dash to eliminate possibility that both shade motors were bad). Mistake! Both shade motors were bad. They probably didnít fail at the same time but I had no way of knowing that. Like a lot of RV components sunshades arenít high quality devices built for many years of operation. The limit switches fail and then the motors burn out. I outsmarted myself.
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Old 03-29-2020, 03:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by LSC9901 View Post
Any resolution ?
FW told me which fuse it is in the BCC. #7 labeled SPARE. But they couldn't tell me what the pin out for the switch is. I took out the switch and tried to figure out which of the 9 pins might be hot but failed.

I am going to try to call them again and see about a pin out. I seriously doubt if they just call the switch and the wire harness manufacture and tell them that they need a 9 pin switch and order a wire loom wire loom.

Been kinda not feeling well the last couple of weeks so laying low. Can't go anyplace anyway.
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Old 03-29-2020, 03:50 PM   #12
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Hope you feel better soon. When you do get it figured out I'd love to know ..... just in case !!!
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Old 03-29-2020, 06:24 PM   #13
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For what it is worth we bought our 2008 Safari 6 months ago and neither power sunshade worked. Having done electrical troubleshooting for a long time I assumed there was no way both shades could fail at the same time so it had to be a feed/switch issue (I also didnít want to tear up ceiling and sit on dash to eliminate possibility that both shade motors were bad). Mistake! Both shade motors were bad. They probably didnít fail at the same time but I had no way of knowing that. Like a lot of RV components sunshades arenít high quality devices built for many years of operation. The limit switches fail and then the motors burn out. I outsmarted myself.
I spent a little time looking at how to get them out but still haven't a clue. Yeah, my fat butt on the dash is a scary thought.
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Old 03-30-2020, 05:38 AM   #14
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Take care of your health- there will always be something that needs fixing on the RV. Troubleshooting electrical issues are a little harder because it can be difficult to find a ground. Also, battery isolators if the unit is in storage can have you chasing down problems you donít really have. Best to run a wire straight from the negative terminal on the chassis battery and make sure your battery switches are both ďonĒ. Check your tester on a known source and then test the switch. Grounds are a bigger issue than feeds.
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