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Old 05-15-2022, 08:55 AM   #1
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Fusible Link & Troubleshoot Leveling Issue

I was going to test drive my RV (2014 AC Revolution) this am after sitting for the winter (as if we have winter in southern Florida). While going through my preparations, I started the engine, allowed the air pressure to normalize, and started to raise my levelers. So far, everything has been going well. I heard/felt the air shocks filling up and the jacks started to retract. Then the engine died. Huh... I figured that I had to be facing a fuse or fusible link as my dash panel was dead when I went to restart. I started around with my multimeter and when I got to the fusible link just before the 'On/Off' switch connection near the engine batteries, I found my problem. I had good power on one side and none on the other. Right now, I'm pretty sure this was the link in line with the switch labeled body and not chassis. I'm going back out to look again and take a pic in a minute.

OK, based on this rambling story, I came here to ask two questions:

-As I will be a bit delayed in getting the failed fusible link out, does anybody know off-hand the amperage?

-Second, based on past experience or gifted genius in that field, does anyone have suggestions on where I should be looking for the cause?

As the jacks were in the process of retracting, I'm gonna' start looking around that motor. I have fought that system in the past. It could have been coincidental or maybe someone can direct me more quickly to a good potential fault. Like I mentioned, I haven't pulled it yet but if they're gonna' put in a fusible link, it's probably at least 100a.

Thanks in advance for wise and helpful comments.
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Old 05-15-2022, 09:04 AM   #2
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I’d be leaving looking for varmint tracks, and maybe a fried varmint.

Whether the blown fuse link is related to the jacks or dash (or varmint) will require a wiring diagram for your coach.
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Old 05-15-2022, 09:23 AM   #3
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Amp rating for the link should be available from the chassis manufacturer .

Now back in the day when fuse links were common in automotive , they were fuse wire .
Waiting on a photo to see what yours looks like /
My vintage Freightliner the power cable to the dash is protected by a 135 amp unit.

Best guess is engine compartment to check for wiring damage , start at the alternator .
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Old 05-15-2022, 12:21 PM   #4
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I got the fuse pulled. It's a 150a slow blow. Now I just have to figure out what made it burn.
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Old 05-15-2022, 01:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyshark View Post
I got the fuse pulled. It's a 150a slow blow. Now I just have to figure out what made it burn.
ANL fuse ?

Odd spot for a fuse not to have terminal protection .
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Old 05-16-2022, 03:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
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ANL fuse ?

Odd spot for a fuse not to have terminal protection .
There actually was a little silicone cap wrapped over the terminals. I had already flipped it back before I took the picture.

Here's a pic of the fuse that I'm replacing:
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Old 05-24-2022, 01:43 PM   #7
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I had a 150 fuse blown, the slide out motor had apparently gotten water in it and shorted out. That's my story on my Fleetwood Pulse.
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Old 05-26-2022, 04:58 AM   #8
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Yeah, mine too...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kcinfl View Post
I had a 150 fuse blown, the slide out motor had apparently gotten water in it and shorted out. That's my story on my Fleetwood Pulse.
I found the cause of the short to be my pump motor for the hydraulic jacks. When I pulled it out, there was actually water standing inside the motor. That can't be good for electrics. This will be the third time I've replaced that motor though the first time for becoming a little water container. I don't love the challenge of getting the motor lined up with that little slot in the bottom. Thanks for the input.
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Old 05-26-2022, 12:03 PM   #9
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Well, Good Job finding the issue. It's too bad it seems to be a recurring problem on your coach.
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