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Old 02-28-2012, 08:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Fred1609 View Post
Its an awkward set-up to try and fit that shower rod into. I think the though of having that extra room is easier than actually fitting the thing. I would seriously think about getting a consult with an RV business like a CW world tech and figure out if it can be done. "Measure twice, cut once".
yes.....I agree..the more I dig in and think about it, the uglier it gets....
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:58 AM   #16
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But seriously, go ask someone thats probably done a few of these.
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:57 PM   #17
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I am re-visiting this issue. I talked to Fleetwood, and all there is holding it is double tape and maybe some caulking. They said it would be easy to remove it.

I am going to measure to see if this installed unit now that I have it in hand will work......BEFORE I remove the glass surround enclosure.

Extend-A-Shower Expanding Shower Rod - Satin Finish - Stromberg Carlson EXT 3542S DS - Shower - Camping World
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
Try this out for size ( pardon the pun ) . Leave the glass wall by the sink intact and remove the other two glass panels leaving the top metal frame.Brace the unsupported frame to the ceiling and then run your curtain along that frame. Whadaya think
Cliff I may leave that panel as you suggested that is right next to the sink, but I'm concerned about the structural integrity if I remove the door and the right hand glass unit. The metal at the top all ties together to make it a solid structure, removing half of it might cause problems, will have to look at it closely before doing anything.

I'll be out investigating it this weekend.....
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:09 PM   #19
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Standing by as always , Kent. Anxious to see you figure this out. I know you will. .
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:24 AM   #20
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Shower

I've removed and replaced an entire shower.
Remove the door
Glass is held to frame by small screws..remove glass
Glass channels are held to wall by screws in the channel......remove channel
Walls are held on by double stick tape...get big putty knife, pry off as you go.
My pan was held down by a couple screws in the corners and a flex connection....need access underneath....unscrew flex connection.....remove pan.
Then do what you want.
Takesa couple hours to remove the entire shower.
Enjoy!
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:28 AM   #21
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Yep, just thinking about it at this point. I do now have that folding shower curtain rail so I can see how its going to work by holding it up there.

Thanks guys!
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:40 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandmbrown View Post
I've removed and replaced an entire shower.
Remove the door
Glass is held to frame by small screws..remove glass
Glass channels are held to wall by screws in the channel......remove channel
Walls are held on by double stick tape...get big putty knife, pry off as you go.
My pan was held down by a couple screws in the corners and a flex connection....need access underneath....unscrew flex connection.....remove pan.
Then do what you want.
Takesa couple hours to remove the entire shower.
Enjoy!
Bandmbrown, was your shower a corner shower unit?
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:00 AM   #23
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I removed my 2 panels plus door and upper cross piece in my Endeavor. Looked (past tense) about the same as yours. I posted this somewhere but can't remember. Anyway, mine wasn't held with tape ... the outermost channels were screwed to the fiberglass walls of the enclosure. I don't exactly remember the sequence but I think I removed the cross brace above the door (I think it had small flat plates across the joints with screws). Then I removed the door. Then the side glass. Then ( I think) the inner piece of the lower center door channel slides to either side far enough to reveal screws that join the lower side channels to the center channel. Then I removed the 2 side channels and cleaned everything up.

I used a Recmar Bendable Track Kit for mine to gain additional height.

RECMAR 4372 Deluxe Shower Curtain Kit 72" Long

I bent my track over the mounted spare tire on my Geo Tracker ... you can use a 5 gal. paint bucket ... the idea is to get a gentle curve. It's then trial and error to cut the ends to get the new track located so the curtain hangs correctly. This is all easier than my description.

In my case, I had holes to cover in the side fiberglass so I used "composite (plastic) screen mould" held with construction adhesive ... it looks like this but it's white plastic.

American Wood Moulding WM142 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 96 in. Wood Pine Screen Moulding-142-8 at The Home Depot

I caulked the seams with bathroom caulk. The 2 pieces of screen mould direct the water into the "tub" as well as covering the holes.

I am EXTREMELY happy with the results .... I'm 6'3" and 235 lb. and I no longer slam my head into the crossbar when using the shower.

The entire bath area feels much bigger.

My DW absolutely loves the new look and function. Easy to keep clean, too !!

BTW, I also removed the carpet fillers around the shower and replaced them with white vinyl tile caulked tightly.

EDIT: added a pic of the white screen moulding installed. The oak moulding is original and covers the gap between enclosure walls and side wall.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
I removed my 2 panels plus door and upper cross piece in my Endeavor. Looked (past tense) about the same as yours. I posted this somewhere but can't remember. Anyway, mine wasn't held with tape ... the outermost channels were screwed to the fiberglass walls of the enclosure. I don't exactly remember the sequence but I think I removed the cross brace above the door (I think it had small flat plates across the joints with screws). Then I removed the door. Then the side glass. Then ( I think) the inner piece of the lower center door channel slides to either side far enough to reveal screws that join the lower side channels to the center channel. Then I removed the 2 side channels and cleaned everything up.

I used a Recmar Bendable Track Kit for mine to gain additional height.

RECMAR 4372 Deluxe Shower Curtain Kit 72" Long

I bent my track over the mounted spare tire on my Geo Tracker ... you can use a 5 gal. paint bucket ... the idea is to get a gentle curve. It's then trial and error to cut the ends to get the new track located so the curtain hangs correctly. This is all easier than my description.

In my case, I had holes to cover in the side fiberglass so I used "composite (plastic) screen mould" held with construction adhesive ... it looks like this but it's white plastic.

American Wood Moulding WM142 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 96 in. Wood Pine Screen Moulding-142-8 at The Home Depot

I caulked the seams with bathroom caulk. The 2 pieces of screen mould direct the water into the "tub" as well as covering the holes.

I am EXTREMELY happy with the results .... I'm 6'3" and 235 lb. and I no longer slam my head into the crossbar when using the shower.

The entire bath area feels much bigger.

My DW absolutely loves the new look and function. Easy to keep clean, too !!

BTW, I also removed the carpet fillers around the shower and replaced them with white vinyl tile caulked tightly.

EDIT: added a pic of the white screen moulding installed. The oak moulding is original and covers the gap between enclosure walls and side wall.
Oh wow Bruce!! thanks so much!!! Perfect answer! Thanks for the pix and the assistance!!

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Old 02-28-2014, 09:00 AM   #25
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Oh wow Bruce!! thanks so much!!! Perfect answer! Thanks for the pix and the assistance!!

You are very welcome! I don't have any pics of the removal cuz' It was hot that day. Best as I can remember the actual removal took an hour because I had to cut the head off a screw with my Dremel. If yours is all tape it should go quickly. As mentioned, I used the Recmar track to get maximum height. With the track and a standard 6ft. curtain it hangs correctly inside the tub at the bottom.

And the circular thing up in the skylight frame is one plastic closet rod holder ... there's another at opposite end. I drop a piece of PVC in and clothes hangers will go over it. That's where we dry stuff that can't be hung outside.



P.S. ... I have 2 - 3m Command Hooks on the back wall for drying towels.
like these ...
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...w&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 02-28-2014, 02:31 PM   #26
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Shower

Mine was a corner unit in my Bounder....walls are a oe piece unit. Pay attention when you are aligning it and your OK
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:16 PM   #27
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I've removed and replaced an entire shower. Remove the door Glass is held to frame by small screws..remove glass Glass channels are held to wall by screws in the channel......remove channel Walls are held on by double stick tape...get big putty knife, pry off as you go. My pan was held down by a couple screws in the corners and a flex connection....need access underneath....unscrew flex connection.....remove pan. Then do what you want. Takesa couple hours to remove the entire shower. Enjoy!
I hope this isn't changing the subject but how do you 'remove the door'. I ask because my door is hitting the bottom edge and has effectively cut off the rubber swiper and is hard to close. It is low on one side and looks like if I could shim it somehow to be square that everything would work well. But can't figure out how to get the door off!
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:41 PM   #28
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Shower

My doors were sliding doors on a semi circular track. The easiest way to remove them is to remove the stopper bumpers and slide them out. You will see an indentation on the upper and lower track located where the doors close in the middle. To adjust the doors ...work on the rollers. They are on a arm that allows adjustment.
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