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Old 12-01-2019, 08:51 AM   #1
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Holiday Rambler Fuse Question

Good Morning....This is my first post here in a couple of years. I have always enjoyed the information shared here. I have a perplexing electrical problem and was wondering if I could pester you all for some help. I own a 2016 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 33CT. The motorhome is essentially a Fleetwood Bounder 33C and is on a Ford F53 Chassis. I recently took it in to the Ford Truck dealer near Lazydays in Tampa for diagnosis of electrical issues involving the chassis battery and alternator. I mentioned to them that mini fuse #5 in the passenger compartment fuse box was blown, among other problems. They diagnosed and replaced a bad alternator and told me that the "coach battery disconnect was internally shorted and does not disconnect battery when off". This will have to be repaired by the Holiday Rambler dealer (General RV). The problem I have with this analysis is that the chassis battery disconnect switch in the stairwell does in fact turn on/off the same items that were turned on/off before. In other words, this switch works as designed as far as I can tell.

The only issues that remain following Ford's alternator repair is the above mentioned #5 fuse blows when the ignition switch is on and the radio is dead. Does anyone know what the #5 fuse is for? It is a 10 amp mini fuse labeled "body builder accessory feed (accessory and run)" and is located under the drivers side dash access panel. Also, my radio is dead. Any ideas? I want to have some rudimentary understanding of this before placing my beloved motorhome in General RV's hands. Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:04 AM   #2
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There is a good chance that that fuse controls the charging/isolation solenoid.

The Ford guy may have been referring to that.

That solenoid closes when the key is on and connects the chassis battery to the house battery for charging while underway.

Almost all MHs have something like it.

Start your engine and see if the house battery voltage matches the chassis battery after a few minutes. It should.

That same solenoid also doubles as the boost or auxiliary start solenoid, controlled by a switch labels as such.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:56 AM   #3
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Jssr-

First off, welcome to iRV2!

Second, you should add a "signature" to your profile. It contains whatever info you want; most people put info about their coach there, so they don't have to type it into each message. Instructions for adding a signature are here.

As for the fuse, I should first say that I went astray a couple years ago when I was trying to help someone with a 2011 HR. I assumed it was wired like our 2008. As you have found, the newer HRs appear to be wired "the Fleetwood way."

That said, your coach's Ford fuse #5 serves the same purpose on your coach as it does on mine: to provide a 12V source with the ignition switch in ACCY or RUN position.

If your fuse #5 is blowing, then I would suspect a short downstream of the fuse.

REV Group (the company that made your coach) should be able to provide you with wiring diagrams that will help you troubleshoot. Their telephone number is (800) 509-3417 or (800) 435-7345, Monday through Friday.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:10 PM   #4
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Thanks for the responses. I am going to take my voltmeter to the storage facility as soon as I can get over there and check the house batteries as suggested. Thanks for the phone numbers, I will give them a call tomorrow. It would be interesting to find out what is energized when the key is turned. I'll certainly report back....Thanks again for the help.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:53 PM   #5
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Well, just a brief update....I spoke to a gentleman at REV technical support in Indiana a few minutes ago and he was of little support. He acted like he was being bothered. I did manage to gather that the #5 fuse is for the items controlled by the ignition switch when the engine is started like the steps and radio. I verified today that when I start the motorhome, the steps do not auto retract (they should) the 15 amp fuse at the back of the radio blows and the 10 amp fuse in the #5 position under the dash blows. He said that there must be a "pinched wire somewhere". I asked if this could be related to a bad relay in the BCC and he said that the relay for these things are not in the BCC. I did get the wiring diagram and troubleshooting guide for the BCC online from RV Custom Products. I was not able to test the chassis and coach batteries with my voltmeter yet but I will do that before driving over to General RV.
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