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Old 01-11-2019, 10:36 PM   #1
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House batteries went out

2014 bounder 35K .. and of course the house batteries go out at night ... I didn't know though that the fridge would go out too, maybe it takes 12v from somewhere for something.

anyway ... did check the water levels and they are good, these are the orig batteries which came with the bounder when we purchased it couple years ago (used),

I used multimeter check each 6 volt battery and they both showed bout 11v, now awhile back we were going to take bounder into alliance coach for warranty work and house batteries did same and the alliance coach service rep walked me through on jumping house batteries with our car, now I cannot remember the cable connection sequence.

Also is it possible to jump the house batteries? I have a jump starter 1200a which I have used to jump the bounders chassis battery couple times before, and if so how would that go? I mean when I hooked up starter to battery you turn it on and start engine, but for house batteries what do you turn on?

of course gen is down with no house batteries, I tried running engine see if alternator would start to charge house but no go there.

The batteries look old also, so I am thinking of also going to store to buy batteries though I haven't seen anyone carrying the oem US 1800 XC2 which is the house batteries, how close do I need to come to when looking for alternate battery, I am going to measure the size tomorrow morning, as the batteries are located under the front stairs so the size needs to be accurate or I won't be able to put the stairs back on.

thanks in advance...

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Old 01-11-2019, 10:49 PM   #2
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6 volt batteries won't show 11 volts. You need to test them individually. But 11.0 volts us pretty much dead for two 6 volts in series. Half charged is 12.2 volts and where I recharge at.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:14 PM   #3
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Before you do anything take several pictures of the batteries with your cellphone. Too many posts about hooking up the new batteries wrong.

What kind of refrigerator do you have? Is it a residential refrigerator?

Are you at a RV park or boondocking?
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:25 PM   #4
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The batteries were under a load, not being charged and the voltage went down to the point the refer stopped working. This does not mean the batteries went out. They may just need to be charged. Do you have a 110v battery charger?
Don't try to jump them. Did you test the batteries with a voltmeter when the engine was running? It will take a long time to charge them back up.
Your 6v batteries are a standard size, GC2.
Most RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:41 PM   #5
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yes roger on the pics,, took tons of them as I know what happens once I disconnect stuff ... will test battery in morning, also I used the battery mon the bounder,, the main showed good voltage and aux showed 0 just blank screen.

no battery charger no wait I do have one when I had a trailer, its a 15a is that good enough? used it when my tt had electrical problems, and added the jumper part as the rv service rep had me use my car to jump house batteries once so i could bring in my awning as I was bringing my rv to their shop.
yes I am in a rv campground and 110v is good, just the 12v is out and the fridge is 110/lp type .. we brought this used at lazydays and no real walk through was given to us, pretty bad customer service that day actually.

but to the fridge their is an inverter in the first bay where the electrical fuses are located but do not know if that is for the fridge or not. as their is also a small solar panel on the a/c on roof which was told to me when we purchased this and no paperwork explaining it either.

I would just hate to buy 2 batteries put them in and still no 12v ... so just trying to isolate the problem, thanks for all advice.
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:44 AM   #6
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It sounds like the converter may have gone bad. On 110 current most bounders get the 12 volt from the converter which takes 110 and converts it to 12 volt to run the coach plus charge the batteries If the converter quits batteries then become the primary source of 12 volts but will not be recharged.
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:51 AM   #7
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You may need new batteries but you also need to find out why they went dead.

If plugged into shore power, the charger/converter or inverter/charger, shouldn't let them go down. The volts should remain at 13.4 volts, so something is wrong there. Even when on electric, the fridge needs 12 volt control power.

There is also a problem with the engine charging system. The engine charging system ( alternator ) should get the start battery charged up in a few minutes and then combine the house battery and start charging them. If you need to jump the chassis battery, while on shore power, that's another clue of a problem.

If in a camp ground, see if you can get a recommendation of a good mobile RV repair guy to come and check things out. Let him/her go over the 12 volt systems, while they troubleshoot the problems.

There is a solenoid that may be bad that could fix the combining of the batteries for charging.

The converter/charger issue may be a fuse or bad breaker but it should keep the 12 volt system running without a battery in the MH.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:21 AM   #8
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kinda hoping not the converter, i was going to remove the 6 volt batteries but wanted to make sure did it correct, first where is the battery disconnect? the one in the first bay says for the inverter, i'm sure need to disconnect it before removing the cables from the battery ... will try batteries first and if that does not solve problem, will call mobile rv .. and see that goes .. thanks again
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:12 PM   #9
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update: Went to batteriesplus and got a duracell ultra which is a replacement for the us 1800xc2 battery that came with the bounder. Installed both batteries and wala, we have 12v power : )
I disconnected the red switch in the first bay above the propane which looks to turn off the inverter and hoping everything else, but then with 2 dead batteries nothing was on that required 12v.
just made sure everything needing 12v was off prior to installing.

thanks for advice.

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Old 01-26-2019, 06:44 PM   #10
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update to update: lost 12v house power again ... had fleetwood tech on phone, batteries good voltage, turned on/off aux battery switch, removed & reseated f23, checked voltage @ red cable going into dist fuse panel *3rd down from top*, followed that red cable into dist panel checked voltage inside panel and at its next location voltage good, f23 was good, ... turned on engine let it run for a bit, battery mon inside bounder shows good voltage for main and blank for aux.
friend talked me thru a few checks and thinks solenoid might be faulty.
first -> is the solenoid behind the circuit board inside the dist panel? I believe that's it and wanted to make sure.
I saw the two points on the solenoid and checked voltage both good: and if it is, then hmmmm I will need to call fleetwood back and see about the procedure to move the circuit board a bit so that I can remove the solenoid to replace it.

also if anyone knows what I'm talking about and can verify that what I'm thinking is the solenoid is in face the solenoid would greatly help,, thanks

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Old 01-27-2019, 05:22 AM   #11
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Yes that is the solenoid and they are known to go bad. The solenoid is operated by voltage from the circuit board. When hooked to shore power and the coach batteries reach about 13.2 volts the solenoid will engage and charge the chassis battery to about 12.6 volts and then drop back out. With the engine running if the chassis battery is above about 12.6 volts the solenoid will engage and charge the coach batteries. The two small wires on the solenoid power it on and off from the disconnect switch and the two big lugs are where the magnet is latched together inside. With disconnect switches on start engine and have someone hold down the aux start switch and check for continuity across the two big lug on the solenoid, if none then the solenoid is probably bad.
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:39 AM   #12
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As a further thought there are also two circuit breakers in the bcc that can trip and be reset manually, my first thought is still the converter because on shore power the solenoid only opens and closes to keep the chassis battery charged.
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:07 AM   #13
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yes I have reset those two circuit breakers, and had originally thought the converter might be faulty, but then I remembered when I had a TT and my converter went bad, the battery died out. on the bounder, both engine and chassis batteries are strong and the engine starts first time every time which is why I ruled out the converter *or is that incorrect?*

update to update: my 12v power came on this afternoon when I had returned from auto zone to check if they carried a continuous solenoid for the bounder and he showed me what they had and I told him, I'd check it against the one I have when I removed it. but low and behold, I return and see a light is on? the kitchen light over the dining table was on, apparently I had left the light switch on.
checked all 12 volt systems and everything is back, fridge, heater, lights, etc., started the engine and checked battery levels and aux is good.
doug mobile rv coming in morning and I'll talk to him, as the whole day has been storming here so unable to work on anything relating to the solenoid.
will discuss if the solenoid or converter but will see once we isolate if solenoid or not.

thanks for all advice/help.
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batteries, house batteries

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