Bounder: How to replace in a 1996 Bounder the HEADLIGHT CONTROL.KNOB UNIT.

[rustylog.]

My headlight knob, labeled "LIGHTS", controls the headlights, parking lights and brightness of the instrument cluster. The knob has gotten really hard to push in and out and lubrication does not help. Also, while moving the knob, irregularly the parking lights and headlights briefly did not come on. Now just the low beam lights won't come on. The low beam lights are not burnt out. They just don't come on. I don't see a fuse labeled for the "Lights" knob under the front instrument panel.

The "Lights" knob is attached to the instrument panel with a nut around the push-pull knob. There are 2 Phillips head screws to the right of the "Lights" knob. The screws are almost in line with one screw above the other. It looks like the screws might be holding up a heat shield or whatever.

I am hoping that replacing the "Lights" knob will cure the problems. However,
if I unscrew the "Lights" knob will the unit easily come out? The driver's chair is in the way and prevents me from lying on my back to remove the "Lights" knob &/or doing rewiring. I was hoping it would drop right down. Being 83-1/2 today, it might be easier if I could move the chair, but it doesn't look easy.

I am pretty certain the "Lights" knob unit I need is not made by Chevrolet for Bounder. Would someone please know the number for the replacement part.

Thanks in advance, the rustylog

[bobphoenix]

Here is a link to the replacement switch...
But, installation will probably involve some sort of acrobatics, as it is on my Ford F-53 chassis... I removed the driver seat to get under the dash to remove the screws that held the switch housing into the dash...

[Gulie]

Originally Posted by rustylog.

My headlight knob, labeled "LIGHTS", controls the headlights, parking lights and brightness of the instrument cluster. The knob has gotten really hard to push in and out and lubrication does not help. Also, while moving the knob, irregularly the parking lights and headlights briefly did not come on. Now just the low beam lights won't come on. The low beam lights are not burnt out. They just don't come on. I don't see a fuse labeled for the "Lights" knob under the front instrument panel.

The "Lights" knob is attached to the instrument panel with a nut around the push-pull knob. There are 2 Phillips head screws to the right of the "Lights" knob. The screws are almost in line with one screw above the other. It looks like the screws might be holding up a heat shield or whatever.

I am hoping that replacing the "Lights" knob will cure the problems. However,
if I unscrew the "Lights" knob will the unit easily come out? The driver's chair is in the way and prevents me from lying on my back to remove the "Lights" knob &/or doing rewiring. I was hoping it would drop right down. Being 83-1/2 today, it might be easier if I could move the chair, but it doesn't look easy.

I am pretty certain the "Lights" knob unit I need is not made by Chevrolet for Bounder. Would someone please know the number for the replacement part.

Thanks in advance, the rustylog

Or it may be this model. I recently replaced it on my 1999 Monaco. Pretty easy to do, front split nut to remove from the dash. The trick with this model, there is a small button that looks like a rivet head on the back to allow the knob assembly to pull out. Pull the knob out all the way, headlights on. Then depress the small button on the back of the switch, and pull the knob out. That will give you access to the screw that holds the switch to the dash panel, it looks like a slotted screw with a hold in the center. Remove that and the switch should fall out.

Here is a Amazon link to the switch you may have.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D6251...5576529&sr=8-5

[rustylog.]

Attached are two pictures of my headlight control unit, etc. The control splits into two wiring harnesses. One side has 4 wires, brown, red, yellow, and orange. The other side has four wires also; brown, black, white, and green. The two brown wires, one from each harness, join together and enter the control unit. I cut the knob off the front to be able to remove the control and two harnesses from the console.

In order to remove the unit from behind the console, I found 8 screws on a plate on the front, just past the steering wheel. I took off the plate and was able to reach in and remove the control unit after unplugging it.

I need help! Is it made by Bounder? Is it a Fleetwood Part? Is it made by GM.

I did notice that the orange wire contact on one of the harnesses had some rust or corrosion/dirt on it which may have effected continuity. (see photo)



s, the control was EXTREMELY difficult to pull out to turn on the headlights.

[Gulie]

Originally Posted by rustylog.

Attached are two pictures of my headlight control unit, etc. The control splits into two wiring harnesses. One side has 4 wires, brown, red, yellow, and orange. The other side has four wires also; brown, black, white, and green. The two brown wires, one from each harness, join together and enter the control unit. I cut the knob off the front to be able to remove the control and two harnesses from the console.

In order to remove the unit from behind the console, I found 8 screws on a plate on the front, just past the steering wheel. I took off the plate and was able to reach in and remove the control unit after unplugging it.

I need help! Is it made by Bounder? Is it a Fleetwood Part? Is it made by GM.

I did notice that the orange wire contact on one of the harnesses had some rust or corrosion/dirt on it which may have effected continuity. (see photo)Attachment 335047

Attachment 335048

Attachment 335049s, the control was EXTREMELY difficult to pull out to turn on the headlights.

Yes, this is the part made by Delco (GM), as mentioned in the Amazon link above. The triangular pin coming out the front should have been connected to the knob for the light switch. Sometimes companies could use a knob with a set screw attaching a knob to the triangular rod. However, if you look on the back side of the silver steel part, there will be the release button that will allow you to remove the rod/knob from the switch. This light switch knob may also be available on Amazon, or others. They may vary in length depending on the application, knob shape and the graphic on the face of the knob. You would just need to compare and replace yours with the most appropriate one.

[rustylog.]

I got the wiring harness off my headlight control and it does not match the one recommended on Amazon, Labeled D6251. In the back row, the one recommended has two terminal posts. Mine only has one, which is on the left side rear, with the control facing you with the handle. The harness will not go on with that terminal post there. It is solid plastic where the extra post would go. I have marked that spot with a red X (see photo.)[ATTACH]33513

[Gulie]

I will try to look this one up. In the mean time you may want to pop your unit apart and see if you can clean it up. You do this by spreading back the small ears on either side of the metal cover where it clips to the black plastic block. Look at all contacts and sliders, brush any corrosion or carbon from them. Clean the whole thing with something like a brake cleaner spray. After that you can lube the inside with white lithium grease. Use sparingly just enough over moving parts to keep them moving smoothly. It is OK to get on the contacts, it should keep the corrosion down.

[Gulie]

Look up this one in your search engine and you will find dozens of buying options. I believe this is the replacement for your item.

Tru-Tech DS177T Headlight Switch

[Gulie]

Link

https://www.partsgeek.com/2gl937w-ch...=Ad+group+%231

[donr103]

Sure looks like headlights sw out of 80's Chevy pick up.. sometimes if it has not melted away.. there is a part numbers.. look closely.. I don't work for auto zone.. part # SW144 21.99 as of 7/7/21.. out of chevy 1986 c20 truck.. with 7.4l eng. Looks like gm had a bunch of old ones laying around and needed a place to use them.. you must save and keep wiring harnesses and to get to mine 2000 you must take out dash that holds all sw and gauges.. 8 or 10 screws.. then get to it though that.. under the dash is a no go unless you remove whole Dr seat.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you

[rustylog.]

THE ADDRESS BELOW IS PURE GOLD. Chris Craft has presented an 18 minute discussion on "How to test wire troubleshoot GM headlight switch." He places an 8-pin headlight switch next to a 7-pin one shortly together after the beginning. Chris shows how to repair the switch, explains how it works, how to test the unit to confirm if it is working and explains what each terminal is for. Chris showed me the 7 pin switch I have been trying to find since last Saturday, 5 days ago. I started to google for a GM headlight switch and I found his great educational site.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryuw...nel=ChrisCraft

I thought the part I was looking for was RARE. For 5 days all I found was the 8 pin switch that Gulie posted on 7/6 at 1:05 pm. I actually posted my first comment late Saturday 7/5, I think Gulie did too. Anyway, look what Gulie is saying and donr103 are saying, the headlight switches weren't originally made for motorhomes, they were made for GM cars and trucks and P30's, millions of them. These parts fit 1968 to 1986 Camaros, Chevy's, GMC's , Pontiacs etc. and another huge variety of vehicles from 1987 to nearly 2000. The problem finding the parts is that the manufacturer doesn't seem to know how the headlight switch was used in the rv industry and how to list it.

Gulie's link to partsgeek and donr103's link to AutoZone are both correct links to a 7 pin headlight switch. donr103's link mentions part SW144 for the 7 pin switch and I found SW141 is the 8 pin switch. My wife also found O'Reilly Auto Parts has a 7 pin model numbered 2HlS5 line MPI.

I must say when I first took out the switch from behind the consul I didn't know the harness came off. It was really on well. I found using a needle nose pliers very handy at squeezing into available cracks on the switch, and then by pulling the handles apart made it easier to get the harness off. The needle nose pliers gave better leverage then a screwdriver.

Pushing on the pin under the switch was extremely hard for me. It was really on well. I found putting a flat eraser over the pin made it a lot easier to push to get the handle off without damaging the pin.

Remember, the front plate, 28-1/2" long, comes off, but the speednuts that lock in the screws might be hard to replace.

Thanks very much again to Gulie and donr103, I hope its good news when I finish the repair.

[donr103]

Glade to give a little help.. you will find many chassis parts are just left over Chevy truck parts.. workhorse does not make parts.. they built chassis.. they used what ever chevy/gm had left over.. yes there maybe a few that are special but they still out sourced most of them... so it's basically a Chevy truck with big frame.. If you would have gone to big a/p store and got a repair book for Chevy c2500 same yr and same eng.. you would have found in the book how to change that headlights sw and how to get knob off.. it would have saved you 2wks and aggravation.. just a suggestion.. great you got it..