Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall
Not being ugly but you don't have your info in your signature or profile so I hope you take your own advice and the op does have his info in his profile. It's a 28' Bounder. Now , can you assist him?
To the OP , welcome to IRV 2. Hopefully someone will be along to assist you.
|
not wanting to get into a flaming war - if I had asked a question then the relevant details would have been in the question text - it does not need to be any where else - so yes - I do take my own advice !
back to the OP - it might be worth trying to isolate exactly where the water is coming from. Let the area dry either totally or enough that you can see if it gets wetter.
Then try running individual circuits one by one to see if you can isolate the one that causes the water leak. Cold first - the hot.
I can't see the plumbing - but if relevant - maybe city water vs tanked water.
Try running different faucets in the coach to see if that changes things.
If you suspect the black tank - try putting a water hose down the various drains - this eliminates the pipes and tests the drains.
Remember water will drip from the lowest point - so directly above the wet patch is not necessarily where the leak is.- I tie newspaper around joints etc - and can then tell what is/is not getting wet - don't let condensation fool you though on the cold water pipes.
Normally - once you know where the leak is - the access becomes easier to spot - whether from underneath - or by cutting access panels in cupboards etc. I guess dropping the tanks maybe the only option. Again if you are certain of the origin - the manufacturer/dealer may be able to tell you the access point.
Hope this helps - and sorry we got off topic !
Stephen