is my bedroom slideout room adjustable????

[joelyn]

when i close our bedroom slideout (2004 Storm) the front (towards the engine) seal and bottom seal both compress against the sidewall but the rear seal and top seal only the main seal compresses but the secondary seal is about a 1/8 of a inch away from the sidewall. is there a way to adjust the room to seal all around?
the motor and works of the slide are all under the bed not exposed like the living room and kitchen slide. they are powergear slideouts.

[joelyn]

when i close our bedroom slideout (2004 Storm) the front (towards the engine) seal and bottom seal both compress against the sidewall but the rear seal and top seal only the main seal compresses but the secondary seal is about a 1/8 of a inch away from the sidewall. is there a way to adjust the room to seal all around?
the motor and works of the slide are all under the bed not exposed like the living room and kitchen slide. they are powergear slideouts.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

I had a similar problem with my '04 Pace Arrow. Except the inside rear seal didn't seal when extended. The front seal was fine, but the rear seal at the bottom didn't even touch. When the slide was in you could see that the outside front seal was slightly compressed and made a snug seal but the rear was crushed completely, meaning the slide was cocked (not square with the main wall) causing this problem.

I tried adjusting the gear mechanism to no avail. Finally after taking the bed apart so I could see all the frame and mechanism I checked the slide frame to wall measurements and realized Fleetwood didn't square the slide properly. I removed all the large bolts that hold the slide mechanism to the floor and repositioned the frame (squared it properly to the wall) and drilled new holes**. When you remove all the bolts (I think mine had six bolts) the slide becomes completely unattached from the rest of the moho. I was then able to shift it and position it properly. Made me a little nervous at first because once the last bolt came out the slide became loose and a little top heavy. You could easily lift the frame and gives you the impression it could easily fall right out the big opening in the main wall.

I had to get to the bolt heads from underneath the rear of the coach. i.e., removed the rear cover between the two chassis frame rails (above the gas tank) and luckily you gain access to the bolts. There right above the rear portion of the holding tanks. This access cover is how you get to the holding tank sensor connectors also. I plugged the old holes with that expandable foam spray you use for home insulation.

** Before I drilled the new holes: After I aligned the frame to where I thought it should be I screwed some temporary large wood screws with large washers to hold the frame down snug and tested it by running the slide all the way out and back in. Make sure the screws are holding it securely before running the slide motor. Then I used the same bolts to tighten it back down, and now it seals perfectly and I get no drafts coming in.

[Jack Myton]

It is not always necessary to actually adjust a slide for it to fit better. On our '07 Revolution the large front right side slide was not closing tightly. There was a small gap, about 1/4 inch or more of space at the bottom while the top was very tight, squeezing the rubber bulb seal. The dealer techs resolved the fit by inserting some rubber hose inside the bulb seal, along the top, so that it would not squeeze so easily. This caused the bottom to pull in so that the fit is near perfect. They simply pushed the hose down the centre of the bulb seal, from one end to the other. There are bolts for adjustment at the bottom of the slide but they would only raise or lower the slide not tilt it. I thought it was a 'nifty' way to adjust the seal.