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Old 10-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #1
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Lazy man winterizing

I know this is an old question with more opinions on how best to handle that stars in the sky, but let me ask this once more please.

The setup is fully enclosed storage building with 14 x20 door that I keep Discovery 40x 2008 in, walls and door thinly insulated. When I had my 5er all the winterizing I did was to plug in a small electric heater in the building. Problem now is that in addition to MH I also store other equipment in building that will require opening the large door regularly.

My thoughts are just moving the electric heater inside MH that way it will stay above freezing inside MH.

My question is will this keep ice maker, water heater, wet bay from freezing?

I'm in Arkansas so were not usually below freezing 24 hours straight for more than 3 or 4 days in a row.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:34 AM   #2
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If you are really a lazy man take it to a dealer and have it winterized. One or two broken parts or lines can be a BIG problem. Dealer winterizing=cheap insurance.
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:20 PM   #3
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I agree, cheaper to pay somone 30 or 40 bucks to do it than to run that heater all winter.

Now for REAL lazy man winterizing you must consider the "S" method.

Yes, there are 3 ways to winterize a motor home from worst to best.

The wet method. You pump pink stuff into all the lines, tanks and so on and come spring you have to flush all that pink c*** outta there (no that was not a censor bot or moderator edit, it's what I typed). Major job

Dry Method, Much better, Blow Gabriel Blow, you open all faucets and low point and fresh tank drains. Open the water pump inlet strainer put a towel under it first, Run the pump this way for a mintue or 4 to pump as much air through it as you can.. Hook up an air compressor to the city water inlet and blow at about 50 PSI for 1-2 minutes or till you get no more water out of the low point drains,, Whichever takes longer.. Wait a few minutes and do it again, times about 10.

Use pink in the drain traps and toilets where flushing is what you normally do when you use 'em. (no additional work)

Finally there is the S method.. If all goes as planned the day before thanksgiving (I am supposed to be on the road now) I'll point this beast SOUTH (S) and drive about 800 miles to South (S again) Carolina where the temps rarley if ever dip into the teens (25 is the coldest I have seen in 4 years) and my rig is good to 20 or less so long as I'm not hooked to city water (the outside hose is not so good)
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:54 PM   #4
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From where?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
I agree, cheaper to pay somone 30 or 40 bucks to do it than to run that heater all winter.

Now for REAL lazy man winterizing you must consider the "S" method.

Yes, there are 3 ways to winterize a motor home from worst to best.

The wet method. You pump pink stuff into all the lines, tanks and so on and come spring you have to flush all that pink c*** outta there (no that was not a censor bot or moderator edit, it's what I typed). Major job

Dry Method, Much better, Blow Gabriel Blow, you open all faucets and low point and fresh tank drains. Open the water pump inlet strainer put a towel under it first, Run the pump this way for a mintue or 4 to pump as much air through it as you can.. Hook up an air compressor to the city water inlet and blow at about 50 PSI for 1-2 minutes or till you get no more water out of the low point drains,, Whichever takes longer.. Wait a few minutes and do it again, times about 10.

Use pink in the drain traps and toilets where flushing is what you normally do when you use 'em. (no additional work)

Finally there is the S method.. If all goes as planned the day before thanksgiving (I am supposed to be on the road now) I'll point this beast SOUTH (S) and drive about 800 miles to South (S again) Carolina where the temps rarley if ever dip into the teens (25 is the coldest I have seen in 4 years) and my rig is good to 20 or less so long as I'm not hooked to city water (the outside hose is not so good)
800 mi south from where?
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:40 PM   #5
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Ok guys I appreciate your opinion on what you would do, I guess my question is will the heat from an electric heater keep areas on outside of the Discovery safe, ie. ice maker, water heater, wet bay.

If needed I thought I'd place a light bulb in wet bay in addition to heater inside camper. Remember, I'm in Arkansas, not Alaska and storage building is right next to S & B. there won't be a lot of nights I'll even be worried, but I do want to be smart!
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnski View Post
Ok guys I appreciate your opinion on what you would do, I guess my question is will the heat from an electric heater keep areas on outside of the Discovery safe, ie. ice maker, water heater, wet bay.

If needed I thought I'd place a light bulb in wet bay in addition to heater inside camper. Remember, I'm in Arkansas, not Alaska and storage building is right next to S & B. there won't be a lot of nights I'll even be worried, but I do want to be smart!

if thtis data is right
Normal Temperatures

(BENTON Weather station, 0.85 miles from Benton)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual
Max 51.5 57.6 65.8 73.6 80.6 87.6 92.2 91.7 85.1 76.0 63.0 54.0 73.2 Mean 39.3 44.3 52.8 60.5 68.9 76.3 80.5 79.0 72.5 62.1 50.5 42.2 60.7 Min 27.0 31.0 39.8 47.4 57.1 65.0 68.8 66.3 59.9 48.1 38.0 30.3 48.2
Looks like January is your worst month, but February is a concern, for what you have invested I would have it winterized.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnski View Post
Ok guys I appreciate your opinion on what you would do, I guess my question is will the heat from an electric heater keep areas on outside of the Discovery safe, ie. ice maker, water heater, wet bay.

If needed I thought I'd place a light bulb in wet bay in addition to heater inside camper. Remember, I'm in Arkansas, not Alaska and storage building is right next to S & B. there won't be a lot of nights I'll even be worried, but I do want to be smart!
I'll try to give this a shot. My understanding of MOST units with "heated" tanks and plumbing uses the duct work from the furnace to provide heat for the plumbing and tanks. If that is the case, an electric heater inside will not provide heat in the furnace ducts so, no it won't work. How about leaving the furnace on and turned down to 50* or so. Then you would have heat in the ducts.
Just an idea.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnski View Post

My thoughts are just moving the electric heater inside MH that way it will stay above freezing inside MH.

My question is will this keep ice maker, water heater, wet bay from freezing?

I'm in Arkansas so were not usually below freezing 24 hours straight for more than 3 or 4 days in a row.
Living up here in the frosty North, I just finished blowing out my water system for the winter, i.e. a half hour. Since we will be heading South in mid winter, I also added anti-freeze to the system, otherwise it takes a full day on the road for the residual ice in the system to thaw, and restore normal water service.

We sometimes camp out during the colder months when the outside temp is around freezing, and the night temps down to around 20F. A simple 1500watt heater (5000 BTU) is enough to keep the inside of our 33' coach at a comfortable 70F. If the overnight temperatures are going down to 20F we don't bother to heat the basement.

Keeping a heater in the basement at it's very lowest setting during extreme cold spells, would be more than enough to protect your rig against damage.

It takes a LOT of low temperature exposure to freeze water, i.e. if it takes 1 hour to reduce the temp of your water tank from 33F to 32F, it would take 500 hours (3 weeks) to reduce that temp from 32F to 31F!! It takes a tremendous amount of energy to convert water from a liquid into ice.

So a few days with nights dipping to 20F isn't a big problem. Even if ice formed in the system, that's not necessarily a big deal unless it gets REALLY cold. Ice in itself doesn't cause damage. It is the expansion of ice that causes the damage. Water/ice starts to expand at a linear rate at about 2F, and rarely causes damage unless the ice forms in a closed system where there is no opportunity for expansion, other than bursting the system.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #9
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As stated above, the electric heater inside will NOT protect the outside areas from freezing. Easiest to use air to blow out the lines, drain tanks including the water heater. Pour rv anti-freeze inside the traps to protect them (don't forget the toilet! Leave all faucet handles turned ON after blowing out lines. Don't forget the hot water heater, toilet, and shower hose. If you have an ice maker, you must purge the lines on it also. Washer & dryer, you must follow the manufacturers recommendations on winterizing.

I think that about covers it if your black and grey tanks as well as the water tank is empty. Batteries fully charged, you should be good to go. Easier to do when it is still warm. That is why we head south.

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Old 10-24-2013, 04:59 PM   #10
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I'll try to give this a shot. My understanding of MOST units with "heated" tanks and plumbing uses the duct work from the furnace to provide heat for the plumbing and tanks. If that is the case, an electric heater inside will not provide heat in the furnace ducts so, no it won't work. How about leaving the furnace on and turned down to 50* or so. Then you would have heat in the ducts.
Just an idea.
This is in a building and the exhaust from the furnace would not be a good thing inside a building
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:29 PM   #11
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My opinion if you really don't want to do any winterization not even just blow air through the lines then just watch the weather and turn on the heat accordingly.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:57 PM   #12
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This is in a building and the exhaust from the furnace would not be a good thing inside a building
It seems like a real big building if he is putting other things in there too. It is apparently unheated. Wouldn't take much of a vent in the bldg.
Anyway, the question was just "will the electric heater heat the water pipes etc". I still think not. Just throwing out ideas.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:53 PM   #13
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Thanks to everyone on your replies. Will be trying a variety of things and monitoring how often that door gets opened during the really cold spells. Like I stated I never had a problem with 5er, but at that time I also seldome opened door getting other equipment out.

Oh how I dread that long 3 weeks of winter!
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:18 PM   #14
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First off... Being a real lazy man and owning a class A is not a good combination. Secondly, winterizing is neither physically exerting or overly time consuming. Man up... Drain the tanks, add some pink, and then turn on the faucets and flush the toilet. You are spending more time thinking about dumb fixes than the job would take... Just sayin...
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