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Old 11-03-2014, 10:27 AM   #1
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Need some plumbing help--pictures too!

I am nearly done with a kitchen mod in my 2013 Fleetwood Discovery 40G, in which I removed the range (stove/oven combo) and replaced it with a dishwasher and stove-top.

I am now struggling with how to plumb the dishwasher drain into my sink's drain. Here's a picture of what I have to work with under my sink:

It's a little hard to see, but those black drainage pipes form a number "4" with a 90 degree elbow on the left sink that leads into the horizontal pipe over to the right sink bowl. That horizontal pipe is really part of a sideways "T" that connects the right sink straight down into my trap, and also over to the left sink.

So I need to replace some of the current plumbing with a piece that will also accept the dishwasher drain, and this needs to occur before the trap.

This means I either replace the left-side 90 degree elbow with an elbow that also has the dishwasher attachment (unlikely) or I replace the side-ways "T" that connects the two sinks together and drops into the trap.

I can't locate these possible parts... Does anyone know where I can get them?

Even if you don't know where to get the parts, I'd love to see a picture of your RV sink plumbing if you have a dishwasher and a double-bowl sink like mine. Maybe I'll get an idea of a different way to plumb my dishwasher discharge line?

Thanks for any help or suggestions!
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:50 AM   #2
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put a tee between the sinks pointed up tie in there. put j in the hose to form a trap
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Old 11-03-2014, 11:25 AM   #3
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Replace the straight line connector between the two drains with one that has a connector for the dishwasher drain:

DBHL 1-1/2 in. x 8-1/2 in. PVC Hi-Line Dishwasher Wye Tailpiece-HPP9818 at The Home Depot
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:10 PM   #4
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Bop & Paul--Thanks for these suggestions. Unfortunately that right-side sink piece is a "T" so I can't just remove the horizontal center and replace it with what you suggest--it is all one piece on the right side sink. Any other thoughts? In this version of my picture, I tried to outline the two parts that I'm working with...
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:23 PM   #5
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Have to agree with the advice given. It will require a few trips to the plumbing store, but simply replace the one piece right side "T", buy the necessary parts to adapt, and put the part recommended by BFlinn181 in the line as suggested. They make "slip joints" that will accommodate the issue.

I hate plumbing problems like this - always takes me 10 trips to the store to get the "right" parts. Once done, I always wonder why it took so long to figure it out.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:23 PM   #6
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I have seen saddle connectors large enough for your DW drain. Ace hardware might have one. The connector just clamps around the pipe and you drill a hole thru the connector into the drain then hook up drain line from dish washer. I had a 5/8" saddle valve for my s&b water softener that would work so if you can't find one check with a plumbing shop that installs water softeners.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:27 PM   #7
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I think you need a fitting more like this one so you can insert into the horizontal pipe. I don't know the size of your pipe, but a google search for a dishwasher wye should yield some results; or even a local plumbing shop.

ABS Wye Dishwasher Adapter | RONA
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:30 PM   #8
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There are many ways to configure the drains to add a dishwasher drain. The straight pipe I linked to was just a suggestion, it might not have even fit since the link was for 1 1/2" pipe and many RV drains are only 1 1/4". You could add the dishwasher drain to the main line by use of a 'T' connection, or add it to the AAV (cheater vent) that is probably located under there. You could divert both sink drains towards the back to a 'Y' that then connects with a straight pipe with the dishwasher 'T' to the main drain. That way you would preserve the under sink space for storage. Regardless, you'll probably make a couple of trips to the home supply store, buy extra pieces and return the unused parts would be my suggestion.
Also, having installed many dishwashers over the years, make sure your flexible drain line is long enough to pull the DW out still connected for troubleshooting later.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
There are many ways to configure the drains to add a dishwasher drain. ...You could add the dishwasher drain to ... to the AAV (cheater vent) that is probably located under there.
Thanks guys.. I think I will probably have to tear everything out and bring it with me to the local hardware shop. Dang it...

BUT... I did see something that I suspect is this "cheater vent" described above. It was behind the (easy to remove) thin wall at the back of that cabinet. It looked like a pipe going straight up from underneath the cabinet floor, then ended at some sort of strange cap. Is that the "cheater vent?" Does it lead to my gray tank? And... can I just tap into it for the dishwasher drain?

Sorry. Plumbing just isn't my thing! Thanks for hanging in there with me guys!
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #10
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Ok guys... BFlin181 got me onto something with his idea of using the "cheater vent." I dug up some plumbing schematics that I forgot that I had. I asked for these when I purchased my Fleetwood, and I just now remembered that I had them!

Is this the "cheater vent" that you are suggesting that I tap for my dishwasher drain? That sure would be great, as it's located behind the thin wall of that under-sink cabinet, so if I tap into that section of pipe, that flexible dishwasher drain will be well protected!
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:14 PM   #11
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Yep, probably looks like this...
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:17 PM   #12
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Only problem is I think the AAV is plumbed in downstream from the p-trap!
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firedoc View Post
Only problem is I think the AAV is plumbed in downstream from the p-trap!
Oh darn. Does this mean that odors from the gray tank could seep up into my dishwasher?
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:41 PM   #14
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As water rushes down the drain, momentum and air pressure can carry all the water past the P trap, leaving the trap empty for gases from the tank to come back up the drain. The AAV is a spring loaded, one way valve that allows air into the drain but stops gases from entering the RV. It is instead of a vent pipe running up to the roof, thus the name, 'cheater vent.' It is located properly, between the P trap and the line to the grey tank. If there is room in that vertical pipe up to the AAV, that would be a fine place to add the DW drain. When the AAV fails, first sign is sewer smell in the vicinity of the sink.

Simply make sure the DW drain line loops down then up so it forms a trap for water to remain in the low part of the line, like a P trap.
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