Community Forums

Neicy · 09-04-2020, 06:38 AM

Kluffinator,

Not sure about the snugging up, Ours shuts very positive. My husband did move it up just a bit from where the original was, meaning the new one is not in the original screw holes. If you need those measurements, I will get them.
Denise

Kluffinator · 09-04-2020, 06:58 AM

Denise

Thanks for the feedback. They are snug as is but don’t want the doors bouncing open when I hit one of our Tennessee potholes. I have a hard enough time keeping my teeth in and they are originals.

I’m ok with the measurements. I went by the instructions and use all new screw locations.

cjkrolak · 09-07-2020, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neicy

Thanks to everyone for the help. Located dash switch, did not even realize there was a not so bright light under hood. Outside rear light did not come on so going to check bulb and replace with LED. Was able to find and operate the rear ceiling "radio" speakers. Wow just wonder why these were even installed.
However it is very satisfying to know all you can about this amazing motorhome.
I am sure there will be more questions to come.

Neicy, I didn't see an under hood light on my 2004 Pace Arrow, can you describe where the light is located? Or better yet, post a picture of yours?

Kluffinator · 09-09-2020, 08:52 PM

Drivers side. Way up high. Location not ideal to actually illuminate any thing in the engine compartment

ndetello · 09-27-2020, 03:18 PM

Two things on the chassis battery. Make sure the radio switch (next to the dash fans switches) is turned off when you park. I’m pretty sure it runs off the chassis battery and not the house batteries. Also, if you are using the cigarette lighter for charging your phones or another accessory it is hot all the time so I always pull it out when storing also. One more quick tip - be sure the left closet door is completely shut when extending the bedroom slide. I’ve broken the door twice!!!

Lakeman1 · 10-31-2020, 07:44 PM

I have a 2004 Pace Arrow 37-C that is a 30 amp coach. Anyone else have a 30 amp coach? I understand that the first few that they made were 30 amp.

Kluffinator · 10-31-2020, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lakeman1

I have a 2004 Pace Arrow 37-C that is a 30 amp coach. Anyone else have a 30 amp coach? I understand that the first few that they made were 30 amp.

Yep. I have the same year and model. Wish it were 50 amp. Tends to trip pedestal when you run both ac and microwave.

Lakeman1 · 10-31-2020, 08:32 PM

You can NOT run both ACs and microwave or washer/drier or hot water heater on electric. Have the two switches in the cabinet above the washer/drier in the middle off positions.

Neicy · 11-01-2020, 07:28 AM

So this brings up something I have wondered about. We have 30A on our 2004 and also wishing sometimes it was a 50A. We did discover this past summer we could run both AC's as long as we put them on automatic.
However have wondered "is it possible to make it a 50A"?
If so, what would it entail?

Lakeman1 · 11-01-2020, 09:50 AM

The conversion (from what I understand) is a big deal. I would just learn to live with it. Once you learn how to work with it it isn't a big deal. A lot of campgrounds we go to we save 3-$6 a night being 30 instead of 50 amp. Yes I would rather have 50 but if you learn how to use it 30 is okay. Always use your ACs on auto, this uses the energy management system so if necessary it can shed some load (AC). What I do is if we want to use the microwave I will push the thermostat up on one AC so the compressor won't come on, then after I am finished with the microwave I will adjust the thermostat back. Remember to always keep the switches in the cabinet above the washer/drier in the middle (off position) so you don't forget and start the microwave or something while both ACs are running. We wash clothes when we don't need both ACs, use hot water heater at night or on gas if both ACs are running, all this is simple and is second nature to us. If both ACs are running you can trip the main breaker using a hair dryer so just adjust the thermostat up for a few minutes while using the hair dryer then set it back. In the winter if we want to run two electric heaters I have a flat extension cord that I can run out he front of the dinning room slide and plug it into the 110 volt outlet at the campground power post. We really don't have a problem with it, you just have to learn how everything works and the power everything uses.

Kluffinator · 11-01-2020, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lakeman1

The conversion (from what I understand) is a big deal. I would just learn to live with it. Once you learn how to work with it it isn't a big deal. A lot of campgrounds we go to we save 3-$6 a night being 30 instead of 50 amp. Yes I would rather have 50 but if you learn how to use it 30 is okay. Always use your ACs on auto, this uses the energy management system so if necessary it can shed some load (AC). What I do is if we want to use the microwave I will push the thermostat up on one AC so the compressor won't come on, then after I am finished with the microwave I will adjust the thermostat back. Remember to always keep the switches in the cabinet above the washer/drier in the middle (off position) so you don't forget and start the microwave or something while both ACs are running. We wash clothes when we don't need both ACs, use hot water heater at night or on gas if both ACs are running, all this is simple and is second nature to us. If both ACs are running you can trip the main breaker using a hair dryer so just adjust the thermostat up for a few minutes while using the hair dryer then set it back. In the winter if we want to run two electric heaters I have a flat extension cord that I can run out he front of the dinning room slide and plug it into the 110 volt outlet at the campground power post. We really don't have a problem with it, you just have to learn how everything works and the power everything uses.

Agree. Usually run the HW on gas and not worry about using it on electric. Might be handy to wire in a dedicated switch above the laundry cabinet that is fed directly by the 15 amp receptacle on the pedestal. And then have that as a feeder to the MW or WH bypass switches.

Neicy · 11-01-2020, 05:07 PM

Yea, we do all that also; I’ve only accidentally tripped it with the microwave a couple times. Have the same thing on our boat with microwave and AC so I do understand it but was just wondering. Tomorrow is day set aside to attempt the re-epoxy of hood that came off. Still waiting on BO of front AC unit and then headed to Key West couple days after Christmas!!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions

Neicy · 11-14-2020, 11:04 AM

Soooo, just purchased and had Local Interstate Battery install new 6V house batteries and a new starter battery.
1st thing noticed after getting home is RV cranks with chassis battery switch on off and without pressing the Aux Batt switch left of steering column.
Don't think it did this before, so called Fleetwood and they indicated it should not crank on House alone. They emailed a diagram of battery hookup and I don't really see anything wrong.
So I am posting pictures to see if anyone sees an issue or if anyone else's 37C will crank with the chassis battery switch on off.
What am I missing??

Winemaker2 · 11-14-2020, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neicy

Soooo, just purchased and had Local Interstate Battery install new 6V house batteries and a new starter battery.
1st thing noticed after getting home is RV cranks with chassis battery switch on off and without pressing the Aux Batt switch left of steering column.
Don't think it did this before, so called Fleetwood and they indicated it should not crank on House alone. They emailed a diagram of battery hookup and I don't really see anything wrong.
So I am posting pictures to see if anyone sees an issue or if anyone else's 37C will crank with the chassis battery switch on off.
What am I missing??

I would start checking / tracing w a V meter to see where you have / dont have 12V. Batty side of chassis batty sw. Opposite side of sw. House side and chassis side of emergency combine solenoid.
Do you hear the solenoid clunk when buttom pressed?
If the solenoid sticks in the closed position what you describe could happen. Disconnect house cable to the solenoid or house pos at batty and see if it acts the same or different?