Community Forums

WILDEBILL308 · 04-29-2017, 10:47 AM

New problem. I am not getting 12V power to power the control panel or 12V lights. All power to the coach is off except inverter. If I start the main engine I can get power to come on. I think it must do with no 12V power to make controls work. If I shut off the main engine power will stay on for about 5 min.
I have power at the pedestal. I have checked the circuit breakers on the inverter/converter. Reset circuit breakers on pedestal.
The batteries are charged.
Bill

Skip426 · 04-29-2017, 10:57 AM

Sounds like the coach batteries are dead; not being charged from shore power; only from the alternator .
Have you tested power at the coach batteries.
Could be if your inverter is a combo unit , that the section that should charge the batteries has failed.

EDIT: NOTE to self . RE-read original post before responding , I see you've tested batteries and say they're charged.

Old Bounder · 04-29-2017, 03:45 PM

Bill, I am not sure what transfer switch they used in your Bounder (it may require 12V to pass the 120vac through), I don't know. Also, I don't know if your inverter is a "whole house inverter" or not, so I can't make any suggestions about those possibilities without being there to do some tests.

However, it sounds like the 120vac, from the shore connection, is not getting to the main breaker panel, or past the inverter transfer switch.

You should still be able to get 12V to the interior lights (directly from the batteries) if the battery disconnect switch and solenoid are working properly.

The only other common component that comes to mind are the two manual DC circuit breakers located inside the BCC box.

If you have a meter, and are willing to do a little testing, we should be able to chase down the problem. lou

WILDEBILL308 · 04-29-2017, 06:20 PM

Thanks for your responses. I have tried all the things and have run out of ideas. I will do more when I get home. I am in Amarillo and it is 31 and snowing.
I called 2 tecks about coming out and trouble shooting it. Both said (after an extensive Q and A that they had no idea where to start that I hadn't tried.) I think it may be the 12 volt side of the converter.
I will test that out when I get home. When I get this fixed I will report back.

Bill

Skip426 · 04-29-2017, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308

I am in Amarillo and it is 31 and snowing.
:
Bill

31 and snowing , and I thought my local weather was bad.

Old Bounder · 04-29-2017, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308

New problem. I am not getting 12V power to power the control panel or 12V lights. All power to the coach is off except inverter. If I start the main engine I can get power to come on. I think it must do with no 12V power to make controls work. If I shut off the main engine power will stay on for about 5 min.
I have power at the pedestal. I have checked the circuit breakers on the inverter/converter. Reset circuit breakers on pedestal.
The batteries are charged.
Bill

The fact that you seem to have DC power with the engine running is because your chassis battery (really the alternator charging voltage) is closing the isolator/charge solenoid (connecting the house and chassis batteries together) via the BCC sensing circuits. This is normal.

The fact that this connection (with engine running) results in powering the interior house lights tells you that the circuitry required is in place and working fine when 12V is actually available.

The fact that the system continues to work for ~5 minutes after the engine is stopped is also normal operation of the BCC, because it takes a while for the chassis battery to drop below 12.6v (the signal to the BCC to break the cross battery connection) when the alternator stops.

Your problem could be a bad cable or connection between your house batteries and the Isolator/charge/Aux Start solenoid. Voltage from the house batteries is obviously NOT getting to the BCC. That path is from the battery, to the aux start solenoid, then on to the BCC.

The second half of that path seems to be okay, else you would not be getting power from the chassis battery circuits when the solenoid closes with the engine running. The first part of that path (battery to solenoid) being open would result in all of your symptoms.

I would suggest checking all those battery connections for corrosion, looseness and/or terminal integrity.

WILDEBILL308 · 04-30-2017, 09:54 AM

I may go check later if the weather improves. Right now it is blowing 45-60 with "gust" and snowing at 28*.

Not going out right now.
Bill

Skip426 · 04-30-2017, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308

I may go check later if the weather improves. Right now it is blowing 45-60 with "gust" and snowing at 28*.

Not going out right now.
Bill

Wuss .

Sorry that just came out.

Grab a second and third cup of coffee and wait for the NASCAR race.

WILDEBILL308 · 04-30-2017, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skip426

Wuss .

Sorry that just came out.

Grab a second and third cup of coffee and wait for the NASCAR race.

You can come over and do some troubleshooting but be aware the batt compartment is on the windward side. I will just drink my coffee and wait.

Bill

**TonyDi** · 04-30-2017, 12:24 PM

Best to just stay hunkered down!
That's cold and snowy for the middle of spring.

WILDEBILL308 · 04-30-2017, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyDi

Best to just stay hunkered down!
That's cold and snowy for the middle of spring.

That is the plan. Went to the office and payed for anouther night.
Bill

GBDTN · 05-01-2017, 04:56 AM

May start working when it warms up, mine hates the cold! Good luck

jchantry · 05-02-2017, 07:02 AM

Turned out I had the same problem you describe on my 2016 Expedition 38K. During troubleshooting {in the rain!) I found that checking house battery voltage to chassis ground showed there was no voltage, open circuit! After checking wiring from the battery to the chassis ground, I found the chassis ground wire had come loose from the terminal lug clamp. Reattached, and all was good again!

Simple fix that took several hours to find.

Old Bounder · 05-02-2017, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchantry

Turned out I had the same problem you describe on my 2016 Expedition 38K. During troubleshooting {in the rain!) I found that checking house battery voltage to chassis ground showed there was no voltage, open circuit! After checking wiring from the battery to the chassis ground, I found the chassis ground wire had come loose from the terminal lug clamp. Reattached, and all was good again! Simple fix that took several hours to find.

Good point!. It doesn't have to be a problem with the Positive battery cable as I suggested. It can (and was, in your case) be the Negative cable.

Interesting fact: The aux batteries in the OP's model (and quite commonly in Fleetwood coaches) employs both Pos. and Neg. battery cables to drive the Inverter/charger, BUT requires that the battery is connected to chassis ground to provide a complete path to drive ALL OTHER 12v items in the coach.