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Old 10-13-2014, 06:18 AM   #1
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Now what did they do?


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I need some helpful advise under the title "Now what did they do" or this doesn't seem right. Our 2014 Bounder has been in for repairs more days than we have camped in it. Every time it goes in and we pick it up, it's either not fixed, shoddy work or something else becomes a problem. Like the instructions for the air compressor that feeds the "toad" brake system that states "Don't put the compressor in a slide-out" and they did. As long as the slide wasn't pushed out (sigh) no issue. But extend the slide with no slack in the lines and (sigh). Then when they worked on the Power Gear system for the fourth time and I accumulated the information off of this forum to have the system zeroed, which they finally did. So yesterday we picked it up, drove the 150 miles home, and I found in a quick go-over (which seems to be a must with this Service Department) I saw the black marks on the carpet so I know they used WD-40 instead of the dry lubricant and I also saw this which seems to be a structural problem that "they" created and I ask if anyone knows what this is or saw this before? Not only is it noticeable by sight, it is instantly noticeable when you walk on it. They did replace a panel on the sink but this seems to be from underneath.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:06 AM   #2
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I think I'd find another Motor Home mechanic. I have a very low tolerance for shoddy work like that. It sounds to me like they put an unsupervised apprentice on the jobs they did on your coach. Enough problems develop in our coaches without additional help from the mechanics. Has your coach ever been in an accident? Would that explain some of the "misalignment" issues? The air compressor thing is pure amateur hour stuff. Duh!
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:02 AM   #3
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gdetty I told people here the marks are not from the mechanism below. The bottom of the slide dirt is on your carpet. In addition if they sprayed dry lube under the bottom of the slide, it will rub off on your carpet. If they made adjustments to the slide, it might also be sitting lower down which will make it more likely to rub on the carpet. The same stuff happens in Decatur.

I see the black streak by the driver's seat.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:21 AM   #4
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Nope no accident. It's a brand new 2014 coach. Fleetwood responded that it looked like "they" the Service people misaligned the slide that didn't seem to come in very well since we bought the coach and it may have been adjusted wrong. Yes I responded and it was worse yesterday after they did their adjustment.

I also started a thread on the forum about my Dometic refrigerator not cooling. On the thread the thinking was the thermistor. I proposed this to "them" and it sat as they said it was the handles. It wasn't the handles. (one week to come in).They then pulled it out denting the door (which is on order) and finally after five trips costing us several hundred dollars in fuel, they determined it was the thermistor. (sigh) Today I get a call from home, they are dispatching a guy that 140 miles to my home because "they" forgot to attach the roof refrigerator vent and it flew off as we left the CW facility yesterday. (sigh) I have no words to explain the work that came out of this new CW facility other than totally unprofessional and that is being extremely kind. I didn't add that (and this is as I would evaluate it, although I'm not a certified RV mechanic) Fiberglass is fibrous, hence the name. They used self-tapping screws to secure the 8lb compressor to the inside slide out bay which came loose, dropping down on the air hose and stretching the wires that feed the compressor. (sigh) I don't think our new 2014 will last a year with the quality work that's been done on it. But they are truly sorry. Not as much as I am for buying off of them. Hey Marcus answer your "If you're not 100% satisfied" email."
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:52 PM   #5
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I was in Decatur for three days in July and two weeks in September. Two weeks in a parking lot. Finally,I showed Decatur how to fix my levelers. I showed Decatur how to fix my slide. The brackets which hold the slide box to the slide rails are too weakly attached. Bolts were added after straightening the brackets to the rails to keep them there. Those two bolts holding the slide box to each bracket are the only thing holding the slide. Seems almost crazy to me. Even the high end coaches are the same. I took pictures of the slides in the parking lot. They tried to say the box was twisted. Wasn't so. When I took title to the coach all the slides were IN as they should be. The brackets moved. It took quite a while to get them to listen. Forget "they". Eric, the shop foreman, listened. I had three shop foremen during my visit. I didn't/wouldn't leave until everything was done as I liked. All during the visit everyone was very nice. So I was forced to be "nice". Insistent but "nice" Aargh.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:08 PM   #6
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This is what I believe. If you're going to own a motorhome you had better start learning how things work. I mean like a crash course in fixing things. Take full advantage of Fleetwood's customer service. They will bend over backwards to get you the information you need to solve a problem. Anticipate problems. Things break. Have the sense to get schematics drawings and procedures before things happen. Do not rely upon "experts". Most are just parts changers. There are exceptions but MOST is the key word.

For example, the rails under the slide have no way to leave marks on your carpet. Those rails cannot move. They can be adjust in and out but that's about it. Go underneath and take a look. Nothing will happen to you. There shouldn't be any visible grease on the rails or gears anyway. If there is, a "parts changer" is "working" on you MH. That slide box can tip up and down enough to touch the carpet because of the way the brackets are attached to the box. Take a look. You will see.

I realize most people don't have natural abilities with mechanical things. Doesn't mean you can't figure it out.
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Old 10-13-2014, 05:21 PM   #7
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Do you have enough access underneath to raise the slide box? How would you do it? Mine is dragging at one end next to the fridge and I think if I could raise the slide out about 1/8" that would fix it.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:15 PM   #8
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Nobody can tell you over the internet how to adjust your slide. Is your slide exterior moulding touching the body evenly from top to bottom when closed on the end you think is low?
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:20 AM   #9
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On the repair sheet from the Dealership it says, "Driver slide out is not square" as my complaint, although not my words nor would I say that, because I wouldn't know if "square" is how it is evaluated and I would think on the rails and rollers is what square tested means... I do know what square is my dad converted 4 school buses into motorhomes. Plumb and square as he always said. He was a builder - I can putz around... about it. The Correction states: Tech lubed and adjusted slide. This slide is not a full slide but it does cover 1/2 the coach so I'm sure it's heavy. I read on this forum where some question the activity of the engine has to be running to operate the slide, but the power is supplied by the shore batteries. So on a call yesterday with the GM I said "coming back in the slide always labors and as if the batteries are at a low charge." My question is this. This depression in the floor is structural and just happened. Did something separate from the Leveler system being worked on, or the slide being adjusted which would be the only structural-mechanical areas worked on. As for climbing under, I have done that several times but I traded my other RV in because I couldn't continue to lay on my back and put jacks under, hence electric levelers. Getting old isn't fun.
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:14 AM   #10
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You have to run the engine when using the slide. The slide rails are unlikely to move. You would need broken welds for this to happen. The laboring you mention is normal. The rails are at an angle to the floor. When the slide is fully extended, the inboard side is supported by the coach framing. Once it starts to move, it lifts up off the framing. Run your engine to maximum electrical power to the slide's electric motor. The lower the voltage, the harder the motor must work and is pulling more amps.

Forget the out of square comments made to you. The factory repair center tried that on me and even reported such to the much higher ups in Fleetwood. All bogus.

The slide box is balanced on 4 bolts. The slide can rock around on the brackets. The interior and exterior trim on the slide box is what keeps it straight with the walls.

I'll ask again. Is your slide exterior moulding touching the body evenly from top to bottom when closed on the end you think is low? If it is tight to the wall from top to bottom say so. If there is a gap between the gasket and the wall say so. Use a folded in half dollar bill to check for a gap if you have to.

I'll add to that. When your slide is extended, does the gasket touch the wall evenly from top to bottom at the front and the rear of the slide? Use your finger to feel this and your eyes. Is there any gap where the interior gasket does not touch the wall when the slide is fully extended?

If the box is rocking around on the brackets you will not feel it or see it happen. I stopped my wife from sitting at the dinette from the get go. A person sitting at the dinette will pull that slide down as it is moving. It rocks on the brackets.

I don't know what model you have but the floor plan looks like my 33c. A 35k is made identical in the front with minor changes in the bathroom.
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:49 AM   #11
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Good advice. I will check these things when I get home. We have a 2014 Bounder 35K. I believe part of my problem is confidence in the warranty repair work. The methodology in how they address problem solving seems lacking "something." I realize there are many coaches and models these guys must know about and repair, but the problem solving skills and advice from the people on this forum far outweigh what is taking place. After the hydraulic line for the levelers exploded in our driveway the first time we deployed them, the alarm continued to sound. Four times I requested repairs and told the manager of the service department that I had read, on this forum where the system needed to "reboot" or be recalibrated or something", because I forgot the exact terminology which was to zero the system. They asked me if I had that information. For this last time, I did and handed it to them. My system, according to them, was zeroed I could be assured. The thermistor problem was diagnosed by people on this forum but the very last thing "they" checked. Even after they tore out the unit and dented the door. Hey if people on the IRV2 forum haven't heard this - thanks for your help. You all are great. My wife and I love our Bounder and plan on traveling in it for many years. I just want it fixed.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:10 AM   #12
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Hub Bub

I checked the gaskets and they all are touching and the spacing is even. I for got there was yet another problem that went unnoticed and the problem was one that came from the factory. That was the kitchen sink elbow was leaking and it was leaking behind the cabinet panel and the outside TV where we never saw a leak or knew there was a leak. Only when water came out from the side panel in the kitchen cabinet and ruined this panel did we know there was a leak. We then didn't know why until the Dealership took that panel off and noted a bad elbow. So the hub bub from the CW team between them, the Dealership and Fleetwood was the RV would need to go back to the factory to be repaired. I don't know how this is supposed to work and maybe someone can fill me in. Although a factory repair and look-over may be the best idea for the coach, I assume I lose the coach for however long it takes? Has anyone been to this repair point where the best answer is to return the coach to the factory?
I would say if the power gear was stressing the undercarriage, or the slide out was causing the floor structure to buckle, or there was water damage to the floor underlayment and a major overhaul was in order than the people who can do a major repair is the best alternative and I'm all for that but I bought this RV because it is exactly the one I wanted. I guess I should have picked "what's behind curtain number 3."
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:42 PM   #13
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I'm so sorry to read of your problems which are not little ones. From what I've read Fleetwood has very good customer relations. Hopefully, they will pay to get your coach to their factory and address all these issues. Please keep us informed of your progress.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:21 PM   #14
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I'll be in Decatur next week with some of the same problems. Will post on the forum what happens.

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