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07-27-2014, 08:35 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryN514
Me too!
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Time will tell. I hope your next report is not about the problem.
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Rick & Melissa Young, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Frtliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox, EEZ TPMS, TruCenter steering control
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07-28-2014, 07:35 AM
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#44
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Port Charlotte Florida
Posts: 2,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryN514
This is what I installed on the battery.
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That should kill "Casper" the unfriendly ghost
Did they happen to check the disconnect switch contacts for complete disconnect?
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2008 Bounder 38P F53 24/30K V10, 2013 Kia Soul Basic 6 speed manual, Ready Brake Elite tow system (previous equipment 1996 Pace Arrow Vision w/Acme Dolly)
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08-15-2014, 10:52 AM
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#45
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryN514
Tippytoe, WOW now that sounds like something that happened years ago on an older FW storm I had which I forgot about until you mentioned it.
As I remember, same thing kept happening to me, sometimes it would start and sometime it would not, so I decided I would take it into a RV shop to have them check it out but this time, even when I tried to jump it, nothing. I called the shop and they sent a tech to me since I was so close. He did the normal test but could not find a problem with the battery. Again, we tried to jump it so he could get it to the shop, but nothing. He went under the coach and was looking at the negitive battery cable and then told me to try to start it, guess what, it started right up. The cable was not making a good connection so once he cleaned every the cable end and scrapped the frame where the connection was, no more problem.
Now since I put a negitive knife type shut off switch on the negitive post, I may never know if that was the problem but if it does it again, then guess what I will check first.
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Barry - this is likely too late to be of use, but I had a very similar problem on my previous coach (2014 Sunseeker). When we first bought it, I had a couple of weeks between camping trips and came back to find all the batteries were dead, and I had to jump start the engine. Turns out I had 2 problems: 1) The ground wire was a little loose allowing a bit of stray voltage and 2) The battery relay was faulty. In that model, the relay allowed power to flow from your house battery to the chassis battery in an emergency to allow you to start the engine if your chassis battery died. It was supposed to cut flow from the chassis battery to the house batteries if your disconnect was turned off. In my case, it was allowing power to continue to flow, so as stary voltage trickled out and killed my house batteries, it would then continue to drain the chassis battery. The techs seemed unaware, so it took my own research to find it. A new relay, and it worked flawlessly from that point forward. Don't know if we have a similar setup, as I haven't even picked my new Bounder Classic up yet.
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08-15-2014, 02:33 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Willow Lakes RV & Golf Resort, FL
Posts: 3,163
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Your disconnect will likely solve your problem. In our coach if we use the house disconnect switches there is a fair amount of parasitic draw. In the electric compartment are marine style battery disconnects, they shut everything down, period! I would check the ground on the chassis to confirm no corrosion or loose connection. On my last boat there was no battery disconnect and it always drained the battery so somewhere on this twenty foot fishing boat was a draw. Solution disconnect the ground, it then held a charge till next use sometimes as long as a month.
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Clay & Pebble
2012 Providence 42 M. Spartan Chassis, 450 ISL
Ford Edge toad, RM All Terrane, TST TPMS, SMI Air Force One, RVM95....
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