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coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coop2.0

ya just gotta figure out how to test high limit switch, gas valve and circuit board so im not wasting money on parts that are not broke

Ok got the furnace working sort of I pulled control board out cleaned contacts which looked good the only way to get it to fire is if I tap on the valve it will fire every time so question is which part is bad the valve or the solenoid or coils any good guesses

87Rockwood · 11-04-2013, 12:21 PM

Is it a suburban? I ask as we have a 87 Rockwood with the same heater and same problem. First measure the voltage at the furnace-must be 11 volts or better. Next measure the voltage at the coil on the electric on/off valve. IF it has 11 volts or better and still will not come on with out "tapping" on it you have a bad valve. The originals were to light in the current for the coil and the modern replacement draws twice as much current (.5 vs .25 amps) and works better. If it is the open coil design you can unwind a few turns off each coil and try it again.

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 12:54 PM

I believe its an Atwood (hydro flame) do I need to pull burner unit out to do the test on coils also it is 11.7 volts to unit. Oh and another thing I guess I have to have the coach batteries on for it to work is this normal the reason I ask is I turned the salesman switches off on way out door and furnace stopped and gas alarm went crazy is this right

87Rockwood · 11-04-2013, 01:04 PM

Have to pull the whole unit out and take off the sheet metal covers. Do you have a manual for the furnace? Oh and shut off the gas at the tank.

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 01:14 PM

I believe I can remove the burner unit without taking whole unit out I'm wondering if the solenoids can be checked without removing burner assembly

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 01:40 PM

Also want to know if I have to have aux batteries on to operate furnace

87Rockwood · 11-04-2013, 01:45 PM

Batteries must be on to run furnace.

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 01:47 PM

Ok thanks

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coop2.0

Ok thanks

I tried it again it fired right up but now it's cycling on and off every few minutes I have thermostat set at 90 but its only like 60 inside what's causing this

coop2.0 · 11-04-2013, 04:23 PM

Oh gosh now it's back to not starting and the aux batteries are low are they supposed to charge when plugged in to shore line

mojoracing · 11-05-2013, 08:06 PM

Yes when it is plugged in the converter should charge the batteries.

KIX · 11-05-2013, 08:36 PM

And if needed you can connect an external 12 volt battery charger to the house bank to get those batteries recharged. Be sure to check water in batteries. Get them completely recharged before you continue to try to troubleshoot.

coop2.0 · 11-08-2013, 09:25 AM

Finally something is working its the furnace I havent tried it in a few days got up this morning have snow on ground went out as i have day off and furnace fired right up and is working perfect....well almost it is set for 85 and shuts off at about 68 there appears to be some type of adjustment inside the thermostat on the right side is a slide with numbers on it... is this an adjustment for the temp setting?

87Rockwood · 11-08-2013, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coop2.0

Fthere appears to be some type of adjustment inside the thermostat on the right side is a slide with numbers on it... is this an adjustment for the temp setting?

No it is not -that is the heat anticipator. It is a factory adjustment done at the install time. Do not touch. Sounds like your "sail" switch is faulting out. It is a small micro switch with a sail on it to sense air flow in the heater. If your out ducts are plugged (mouse/wasp) or your air in/out for the burner is plugged (again mouse/wasp) you will not get a strong air flow and the heater will fault to "off".
If it is not the sail switch check the over temp "clicks on" switch-mounted near the fire box and it will snap open when to hot.