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Old 05-02-2018, 06:37 AM   #113
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I've also had to replace my house batteries after a little more than a year. After replacing the batteries and opening both battery disconnects and the inverter disconnect I still had over 1 amp of parasitic draw off the house batteries. This was confirmed by Fleetwood technical support. There are items, such as the propane leak detector that are always connected to the batteries. If we plan on letting the unit sit in storage for more than a week to ten days I open both battery disconnects, the inverter disconnect, and I remove the negative ground cables off the house batteries. This has stopped the issues of the house batteries going dead after about two weeks due to parasitic draw. I'm now trying to find a better method of holding down the entrance stairs so its easier to get to the batteries without taking 15 to 20 minutes trying to get the screws out the Fleetwood used.
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:23 AM   #114
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Not a pace arrow but had same issue with my wbg dp. Installed a battery disconnect for the negative grounds (negative cable to disconnect, cables from disconnect to frame).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M..._1525263371847
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Old 05-03-2018, 06:12 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by ser-2011-del View Post
I've also had to replace my house batteries after a little more than a year. After replacing the batteries and opening both battery disconnects and the inverter disconnect I still had over 1 amp of parasitic draw off the house batteries. This was confirmed by Fleetwood technical support. There are items, such as the propane leak detector that are always connected to the batteries. If we plan on letting the unit sit in storage for more than a week to ten days I open both battery disconnects, the inverter disconnect, and I remove the negative ground cables off the house batteries. This has stopped the issues of the house batteries going dead after about two weeks due to parasitic draw. I'm now trying to find a better method of holding down the entrance stairs so its easier to get to the batteries without taking 15 to 20 minutes trying to get the screws out the Fleetwood used.


Please let us know what you figure our for the battery cover. It is also a PITA on my Southwind.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:48 PM   #116
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Need help please. The two 12V plugs to the right of the driver, under the dash, are not working. They were last March when we took a trip, because we used them to charge phone on the road. Fleetwood said look for the fuse for 12V service in the fuse box. Found one 5 A fuse in the small fuse box to left of large fuse box, that says it is for12V service. Changed it and still does not work. Flipped a 30 A fuse in the large fuse box on and off that said it was for the Charger. No change. Any ideas? Another fuse somewhere else? Thanks.
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Old 06-09-2018, 06:23 AM   #117
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I've had the same problem with blowing fuses for the 12 volt plugs. If you pull the panel directly under the plugs, you will find the fuse panel that powers the plugs. My panel has a diagram which shows which fuse does what. I not sure what the fuse amperage is but replacing it should correct the problem. I need to replace both plugs, they're cheap and not well made. I've found that if I push the male plug into the socket with too much force, the fuse blows. My plan is to replace them with some marine units.
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Old 06-09-2018, 12:19 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by kenith46 View Post
Need help please. The two 12V plugs to the right of the driver, under the dash, are not working. They were last March when we took a trip, because we used them to charge phone on the road. Fleetwood said look for the fuse for 12V service in the fuse box. Found one 5 A fuse in the small fuse box to left of large fuse box, that says it is for12V service. Changed it and still does not work. Flipped a 30 A fuse in the large fuse box on and off that said it was for the Charger. No change. Any ideas? Another fuse somewhere else? Thanks.
We also have had our fuses blow - a couple of times. Both times they were replaced by the dealer and the factory. They have not blown in the last couple of months so the root cause may have been solved. I asked the factory which fuse box the fuses were in so I could fix it myself the next time. They said in the front driver’s side compartment. I never did see exactly which fuse - sorry I can’t be more specific. I know this contradicts what others have said about the under dash panel, but I know I looked there and couldn’t find the fuse.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:34 AM   #119
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We have the Holiday Rambler Navigator XE 36U which is HR's version of the PA 36U. Bought new at Tampa RV show from General RV in Tampa, took delivery on 2/10/18. Thus far we have had 31 "issues". Most were minor and I fixed them myself so I know their fixed. No problems so far with the bed articulating mechanism or slide, or the vacuum pump. Bigger issues thus far: Had a low coolant alarm at about 3200 miles when we were in the Outer Banks. I can see the reservoir and it was just below the minimum mark. General RV has locations all around the country and they have a program where if you bought your coach from them, if you have a problem that actually keeps you from using it they will take it in night away and get you back on the road. We were headed to VA so I called ahead to General RV in Richmond and true to their word, when we go there they took it in immediately. They added a gallon of coolant, couldn't find any leaks so advised me to keep an eye on it. We were headed to MN and by the time we got there I wound up adding another 4 gallons of coolant. Couldn't find any evidence of a leak myself. Nothing visible on the radiator, no blow back on my toad, no drips underneath the coach when we were sitting camped, oil was fine, nothing. Took it to Freightliner of St. Cloud, MN. They found all of the clamps on the rubber hoses going to the heater core in front of the coach were loose. Those were tightened but since I've only driven it 90 miles back home the jury is still out on whether it's fixed or not. Other big problem at the moment is the drop down queen bed up front. Electronic brakes don't work and I can go about 35 miles before it's inched it's way all the down so it's just above my head and I'm looking throw a slot of about 8" between my dash and the bottom of the cabinets on the underside of the bed. There are no HR dealers in MN so I'm currently talking to REV about either allowing a Fleetwood dealer to repair it under warranty or getting a mobile service to repair it. No answers on that yet. Another problem is where the front cap aligns with the forward most basement compartment on the passenger side. The brace/bracket that holds things in place is gone so they are misaligned about an inch and a halve. Not quite sure how that's going to be fixed but plan on taking to REV in Decatur on my way to FL in the fall. Also, while not a huge issue, my steering wheel is offset about 20 degrees when I'm pointed straight. Other issues have been minor which I have fixed. Other than that we like the coach and once those are fixed hopefully we won't have much more in the way of problems for awhile.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:12 PM   #120
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Found diagram of fuses...but no fuse box

Quote:
Originally Posted by ser-2011-del View Post
I've had the same problem with blowing fuses for the 12 volt plugs. If you pull the panel directly under the plugs, you will find the fuse panel that powers the plugs. My panel has a diagram which shows which fuse does what. I not sure what the fuse amperage is but replacing it should correct the problem. I need to replace both plugs, they're cheap and not well made. I've found that if I push the male plug into the socket with too much force, the fuse blows. My plan is to replace them with some marine units.

Thanks Colin and ser-2011-del for your help. I found the diagram on the panel under the 12V plugs...but no fuse box. I did find another fuse box in the driver side front storage. It however does not match the 16 fuses diagrammed under the 12 volts. I am trying to contact Fleetwood tech service, but there were 12 on hold at closing time. Maybe tomorrow. Not sure whey FW would put the diagram of type of fuse and what it services and then not put the fuse box underneath the panel. Son and I both have looked and we see nothing but lots of wires and a/c venting for the front a/c under the panel. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks,


KL
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:20 AM   #121
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That is where my fuse panel is located on our 2017, directly behind the panel under the two 12 volt plugs. Maybe Fleetwood moved it?
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:36 PM   #122
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That is where my fuse panel is located on our 2017, directly behind the panel under the two 12 volt plugs. Maybe Fleetwood moved it?

Well, I finally got through to FW and Josh walked me through where the different fuses are in the front side storage. Found the 12V 15 amp fuse, replaced and it now works fine. Not sure why FW put the diagram on the panel inside and the fuse box outside. Oh well, now we know. I sure appreciate everyone's help. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:37 PM   #123
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:32 PM   #124
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Vacuflush breaker

Yesterday our Vacuflush decided not to turn on. No lights, nothing. I suspect it is the breaker and it just needs to be reset, but in order to test that theory, I need to locate it in our ‘18 Pace Arrow 36U. Of course this happened after hours and at the start of a weekend so no availability from Fleetwood till Monday. I spoke with the most helpful service guy (Ramey from R&R RV in Spokane - he arranged to fix a few things for us while in Spokane recently). He thought it was behind the drawers in the bedroom. I checked there (using a link from someone who fixed their Bounder - great pictures. But that is not where our vacuflush reset is. Any ideas? I think it would be on the passenger (door) side, because both toilet are that side, but that’s use a guess.

Any ideas are welcome.
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:42 AM   #125
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All,

I have attached two pics. Hopefully they are clear. Would appreciate it if someone can id from the photo's what these might be. They are black plastic with a screw in top and bottom and in the middle is a round black piece, although it is all one piece. We have not seen anything like this and trying to figure out what purpose it serves, if any.

When looking at the photos rotate 90 degrees, as the screws are top and bottom. I did not take pic correctly. One piece is behind the captain's chair onn the wood, the other is in the master bedroom.

Thanks in advance.


kenith46

Attachment 162857

Attachment 162858
These are the RV temperature sensors. You might find this interesting:
https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/rv-heating-cooling
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:37 PM   #126
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Thanks for the link to the Wynn's

Hi xman11...you actually answered this back in May of last year. However, I really appreciate the link to the Wynn's about heating and cooling your RV. We have been very flustered when first trying to use the heat pump to heat. Reading they do not work when temp is below 45 F makes all the sense in the world. We seem to be doing OK with the a/c, however we have invested in a couple of electric heaters, along with the fireplace heater, and this has kept us just fine and toasty, better than we would have ever expected. Thanks again.
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