Pace Arrow: PACE ARROW owners group

[Neicy]

Originally Posted by vagaron

It's probably the same setup as my '06 PA: the small solar panel maintains charge on the house batteries provided there's not a drain.

I also had problems with the chassis batt often going out and needing to use the house batts for help. Finally, a good, new battery was the answer. Now when I park the rig for any length of time w/o shore power, I turn off the main and house batts to avoid any draining.

So my problem is the RV is plugged to power all the time. I keep it at my home and keep it to shore power to maintain the Frig, run my small dehumifiers etc. Also alternately run AC's as in the summer in the South it gets pretty hot and it just maintains all the systems. The chassis battery was
replaced March 2019, the house batteries are probably late 2017 or 2018 ? they all came from Walmart so who knows. When I isolate the issue I will share. Right now I am checking the battery first.

[Kluffinator]

So it could be that when you are plugged in to shore power and you read the voltages at the check levels panel that you are seeing voltage at the chassis battery due to the converter sending a charge to it.

Try unplugging shore power and measure the voltage directly at the chassis battery with every thing turned off and then compare to the reading you get at the panel when you are plugged in.

I leave mine plugged in all the time for the same reasons you stated but even so still find that I need to put the chassis battery on a maintainer after any length of time. Especially if I don’t turn off the chassis battery. I’ve even had it go dead after just 4 days of camping even though I was plugged in because I didn’t kill the chassis battery. I’m sure there is a problem somewhere just haven’t chased it down yet.

[Lakeman1]

Remove, paint, replace

[Kluffinator]

Had one in my ceiling fluorescent light fixtures fail so used led ribbon lights to fix. Fairly easy but should have used warm white.

[Steve Wright]

Where is fuel filter on Pace Arrow 34W w 8.1 liter engine

[PappaBull]

Originally Posted by Steve Wright

Where is fuel filter on Pace Arrow 34W w 8.1 liter engine

driver side. go over over to the Workhorse thread and search fuel filter for a lot of good info on the different types of filters.

[racer26]

On my 08 it's behind the left rear wheels in the frame channel. It takes a special adapter if it's original.

[donnyman]

Hello!


It has been a while since my last post. but I have been working on my 1998/9 pace arrow vision constantly with close to $50,000 in bills. (paid by insurance) ..................... I am wondering if anyone has closed off the hole in the dash after removing the old TV? please show pictures I have a million more questions and tons of diagrams. My most recent nightmare is batteries not charging...more later.

[vagaron]

Originally Posted by donnyman

Hello!
My most recent nightmare is batteries not charging...more later.

Have the batteries tested. Could be they just can't hold a charge anymore. Have you checked the fluid level (assuming they're not the sealed kind)? I had the problem and new batts, chassis and house, was the solution.

[gts1544]

After purchasing the unit in 2012, we were not experiencing any leaks, but just felt that a good roof reseal was a positive step. We purchased a two part epoxy-type liquid roof compound from www.epdmcoatings.com on line (7 gals for $533 in 2012) and applied it ourselves. Voila! A new roof that has lasted leak free until the present time - 2021 - and survived two major hailstorms without any roof damage. Can't say the same for the plastics up there. The real application trick is to only mix as much as you can apply in about 2 hours as the mix life is 4 hours until it hardens. Remember that you need to cut in around the sides of all of your roof openings with a brush prior to rolling the flat areas. GTS1544

[gts1544]

About 5 years ago, we replaced the original "dumb" single-stage converter/charger unit in our coach with one of the new "smart" multi-stage charging units that allows us to keep our older unit plugged in all winter long here in Cheyenne, WY, without having to worry about boiling the batteries when they are fully charged. This eliminates the need for a "trickle charger" and keeps the batteries fully charged and unfrozen all winter with no attention from us. We also installed a digital voltmeter in the panel above the door with a double pole, centering, momentary toggle switch labeled START / HOUSE so that we can get an accurate battery voltage reading from that location. GTS1544

[gts1544]

Our unit has a smaller basement compartment just forward of the door on the passenger side which we converted into a house battery compartment accommodating two Interstate 4D 12 V truck batteries wired in parallel. The compartment required some structural enhancement of the floor and an improved ventilation vent within the basement door. The batteries were installed with heavy duty composite battery boxes to capture any electrolyte that might escape and a heavy duty 12 V cable with a receptacle was run vertically up to the folding table between the chair in front of the door and the swiveling passenger seat. Most of the time this cable powers a 400 W inverter for charging laptops, phones & tablets, etc. though we have discovered that it is powerful enough to operate our 24" flat screen TV and separate DVD player. This relieves us from having to operate the 3000 W inverter that we installed center-line just inside of the new battery compartment with its remote switch installed in the electrical panel over the door. This installation enables me to have my 3 AM cuppa coffee without having to use the stove due "Quiet Hours"! In fact, we use the microwave display as our verification that we have a source of 110 VAC. This set-up requires the installation of a transfer switching unit that prioritizes the AC power source: shore power - generator - inverter. We also had a device installed that allows our house batteries to charge our start battery and the reverse, therefore, when driving as soon as our start battery reaches a specific minimum voltage it allows the excess alternator current to fully charge the house batteries. We have almost no electrical power issues any more! GTS1544

[Kwillweb]

Originally Posted by AugerN

I have a 2017 Pace Arrow 35E bunkhouse model that I bought new this year. I'd love to see some mods, etc. I previously had a Jayco Precept and I loved their forum because they had great model specific participation.

I haven't modified much other than try to rig an extension to the sewer so I can connect my Sewer Solution. The connection is too recessed for it to fit. And I hate the 3" slinky pipe.

So I'd love to hear what others have done or problems that they've solved.

I realize this is an older post, but am willing to answer on record anyway as I found a simple solution that works well for pace arrows concerning the sewer solution macerator
A camco 5” clear connector will do the job, but you will want to make a new floor panel insert as otherwise you have to leave it off. The clear extension also helps you monitor the mascerators performance and because the 3” “Y” valve assembly rotates, you can avoid close contact with the valve plunger handles. I have had to modify the SS only when using it for pumping to/from a blue boy. I keep the SS, the black tank flush inlet fitting on a waterline hose splitter valve with quick connects and back flush valves to make it all operate to get with one grey water inlet.
The only bad thing I have to say about Valterras sewer solution is that it is very slow compared to the 3” slinky when dumping in a busy public dump site. That, and that the outflow connector can develop a leak as the material seems a little brittle.

[Kwillweb]

Hi! I have a 2016 pace arrow Lxe 38 k model with a large wall slide. Anyone out there have any problems with their wall slide? It’s a power gear mechanism. The rearmost rail/ram has sagged only a little bit, maybe 1/4 inch, but as the small decorative slide rail covers are pushed outward, or brought inward, the last most rearward cover does not clear the opening and physically “pops” with a twang! I feel if there is a vertical adjustment of any kind it may help regain a little clearance. What does anyone here think?
As a related issue, does anyone here use slideout supports under theirs?