Community Forums

daveandcarol · 07-15-2019, 12:52 PM

Of course it was in the last one checked. After you found it, you stopped checking...

AZLegend · 07-15-2019, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank 66

I have a 1993 Pace Arrow that needs the motor that makes the drivers window go up. the problem is the previous owner took everything out of the door and threw it away. I would like to replace everything so the window would work again. The problem is, I have no idea what is suppose to be in the door. If you are replacing your window would it be to much trouble to take a picture of the inside of your door so I can see what is suppose to be in there? If you can you can email to fhuber1@roadrunner.com. Thanks

When I have time to remove the driver side door panel on my '93 Pace Arrow, I will take some pictures and forward them to you. I still work full time, so I mainly have weekends to do any work on mine. Have you taken the driver door panel off? If so, any help on how the door panel attaches to the outside door metal panel would be beneficial.

Frank 66 · 07-16-2019, 10:35 AM

Thanks AZLegend. would be grateful for the pictures of the inside of the door. The previous owner took everything out of the door including all the mounting brackets. I can fabricate the brackets if I know what they look like. There are screws thru the door handle area and the panel on mine was held on with double back tape. I don't know if it came that way from the factory due to the fact it was removed by previous owner. Hope this helps.

AZLegend · 07-17-2019, 07:23 AM

Frank 66, it will be a couple weeks before I can get to it as this weekend we have plans, but should be able to get into it the next weekend.

daveandcarol · 07-17-2019, 10:14 PM

My coach is a little newer than yours. My door panel sits in metal tracks along the top and bottom with screws along the front and rear edges. Don't know if yours is similar.
Wondering how the window is staying up if the PO removed 'everything'...either there's more remaining in there than you think or you'll find something 'interesting'...

Frank 66 · 07-18-2019, 11:26 AM

They removed the complete mechanism including all the brackets. Then they attached a straight bar of aluminum attached to the bottom of the door to the window to hold it up. I can not lower the window at all.

Frank 66 · 07-18-2019, 11:32 AM

Thank's AZLegend. I can wait until you have time to take the pictures for me.

daveandcarol · 07-23-2019, 08:13 PM

Well, time to post something to keep the thread on the front page...
Dropped almost $3K this week on brake work (worn out pad chewed on a rear rotor) and 2 new tires. Ouch. Tag axle tires were wearing on inside, have to contact Mor-Ryde for advice.

jaearhart · 07-26-2019, 10:15 AM

I'm learning; Buying a new DP requires your full understanding of who's who and what's what. The Sales dealership is your key to a successful and enjoyable RV. The Factory does little if NO Quality checks of the Build. Therefore the Dealer only checks the Unit when potential sales are involved. Its you the buyer, that must point out during the walkthrough of discrepancies. A good dealer with a good service dept . will immediately get the coach into the service bays (ONCE) the warranty items are approved by Fleetwood or Freightliner which ever is responsible. I suggest a good shakedown week of traveling and make a list in the first few months of ownership. I found a list of over 15 Items the first walkthrough and then returned for ten more after a 2,000 mile trip. Get every warranty item done in the first 15,000 miles or 1st year.. Beware Cummings and Onan suggest Oil and filter changes every 12 months or millage as per booklet. Dealers may have a unit MFG date 12 or more months before sale. Its not unusual you will be servicing the Fuel filters and Oil filters and wiper blades sooner than thought at big $$$. I'm learning .. I got lucky with a good large dealership..We really like this Fleetwood Pace Arrow XLE DP

dbemowsk · 07-27-2019, 11:17 PM

So I have a 98 Pace Arrow that I bought last year and when we bought it, it didn't have the electric step. I think it was removed prior to the last owner having it. In the interest of replacing it, I did some searching at salvage yards and ebay. I ended up getting a STEAL of a deal from someone on ebay that had a 24" wide Kwikee platinum series step that was just missing the motor. It appears to have the gear box with the actuator arm though which is good. Picked it up for $90 plus $84.95 shipping, so $174.95 total.

I have to look once I get it back (in the shop right now for engine AC compressor and dryer replacement), but there was a bit of under carriage rust and rot on it, but I am not sure about the area where the step gets installed. Regardless, I would like to reinforce that area a bit more and am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on doing that? Should I have another plate of metal welded in there or is there some other kind of reinforcement that I can do to make sure things are secure when I install it?

AZLegend · 07-29-2019, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank 66

Thank's AZLegend. I can wait until you have time to take the pictures for me.

Frank 66, took some time to disassemble the driver front door and take those pictures I promised, which also allowed me to adjust and lubricate the door release mechanism too

I can forward those to you via email, here are a few...

lonfu · 07-29-2019, 09:44 AM

Ok, so on my unit, they used the 2 outside center holes and installed just 2 cap bolts through plywood and steel frame. MIne had a steel frame with plywood insert, then the floor covering. Over the years the plywood compressed where the heads of cap bolts passed through and the step felt loose. What I did was to tighten up the cap bolts, they are under a layer of glued down flooring, that I didn't want to disturb, so added 6 more self tapping screws 1" screws. Since most of the pressure is on the front edge added 4 of them along the front edge. Drilled holes in the steel.

When I did research on these units, I found that they use Window raise motors from, ICR's (I Can't Remember) Fords or Chevy cars and are common as dirt. Don't have service records with me... sorry... trick to making these things last is using a grease gun needle to force grease into all the joints once every couple of years. Forget the spray stuff, it is good for a quick fix to quiet squeeky joints.. then wipe down so no grease on pants legs or shoes.... hope this helps...

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbemowsk

So I have a 98 Pace Arrow that I bought last year and when we bought it, it didn't have the electric step. I think it was removed prior to the last owner having it. In the interest of replacing it, I did some searching at salvage yards and ebay. I ended up getting a STEAL of a deal from someone on ebay that had a 24" wide Kwikee platinum series step that was just missing the motor. It appears to have the gear box with the actuator arm though which is good. Picked it up for $90 plus $84.95 shipping, so $174.95 total.

I have to look once I get it back (in the shop right now for engine AC compressor and dryer replacement), but there was a bit of under carriage rust and rot on it, but I am not sure about the area where the step gets installed. Regardless, I would like to reinforce that area a bit more and am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on doing that? Should I have another plate of metal welded in there or is there some other kind of reinforcement that I can do to make sure things are secure when I install it?

dbemowsk · 07-29-2019, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonfu

Ok, so on my unit, they used the 2 outside center holes and installed just 2 cap bolts through plywood and steel frame. MIne had a steel frame with plywood insert, then the floor covering. Over the years the plywood compressed where the heads of cap bolts passed through and the step felt loose. What I did was to tighten up the cap bolts, they are under a layer of glued down flooring, that I didn't want to disturb, so added 6 more self tapping screws 1" screws. Since most of the pressure is on the front edge added 4 of them along the front edge. Drilled holes in the steel.

When I did research on these units, I found that they use Window raise motors from, ICR's (I Can't Remember) Fords or Chevy cars and are common as dirt. Don't have service records with me... sorry... trick to making these things last is using a grease gun needle to force grease into all the joints once every couple of years. Forget the spray stuff, it is good for a quick fix to quiet squeeky joints.. then wipe down so no grease on pants legs or shoes.... hope this helps...

Thanks, this is definitely helpful information. Once I get the coach back from the shop, I am going to look, but I thought about putting a plate of metal on the top side with some bolts through to the bottom to reinforce things, because reinforcement never hurts for things like that that need to hold a lot of weight. I figure better safe than sorry.

My dilemma now is that I need to get the step working again. It is missing the motor, and from some youtube videos I watched, it appears that I also need a smaller round gear and pin that fits between the motor and the larger gear in the gear box that can be seen in the picture. If anyone knows where to get that gear it would be a big help.

lonfu · 07-30-2019, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbemowsk

Thanks, this is definitely helpful information. Once I get the coach back from the shop, I am going to look, but I thought about putting a plate of metal on the top side with some bolts through to the bottom to reinforce things, because reinforcement never hurts for things like that that need to hold a lot of weight. I figure better safe than sorry.

My dilemma now is that I need to get the step working again. It is missing the motor, and from some youtube videos I watched, it appears that I also need a smaller round gear and pin that fits between the motor and the larger gear in the gear box that can be seen in the picture. If anyone knows where to get that gear it would be a big help.

Looks like some one pulled the pinion gear out of the gear box, bad news, going to have to replace the gear box... easy $100, then the motor, $50 to $100 depending on source... might as well buy a new unit because there is no way to test the controller. Getting up there price wise for replacement stuff...