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09-14-2013, 04:27 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
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Pex Plumbing.
Our shower faucet has sprung a leak and I will be replacing it tomorrow. I've figured out how to get at the plumbing connection behind one of the mirrors. Looks easy.
But my question is: Do I need to replace any seals in the Pex connection? And if so will they come with the new faucet?
Thanks,
Muddypaws
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09-14-2013, 04:33 PM
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#2
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Community Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 50,738
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I replaced my shower faucet and don't remember any washers/ seals.
__________________
Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
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09-14-2013, 04:40 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
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Thanks
Thanks Cliff.
I replaced one about 30 years ago and didn't trust my memory. But I think yours is OK!
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09-14-2013, 04:44 PM
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#4
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Community Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 50,738
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There ya go thinkin again. What did I have for breakfast ??
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Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
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09-14-2013, 05:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,446
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Should be male to female threaded conection use teflon tape then put very thin coating of rectoseal and screw together
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09-14-2013, 06:09 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 1,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom
Should be male to female threaded conection use teflon tape then put very thin coating of rectoseal and screw together
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Recto seal; is that the same ointment I use for hemorrhoids?
__________________
Steve Bernard
2009 Sportscoach Legend 40QS
425HP Cummins ISL/Allison3000/Freightliner XC-R
2007 Saturn Vue RedLine
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09-14-2013, 06:15 PM
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#7
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Community Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 50,738
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Steve. You are too funny but ( pardon the pun ) for the sake of sanity I googled it.
http://www.is-supply.com/ProductDeta...Code=402523551
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Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
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09-14-2013, 06:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 1,038
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Bet it would hurt down there!
You can buy at Home depot in a number of forms:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rectorsea...4#.UjT-HUnn8iQ
__________________
Steve Bernard
2009 Sportscoach Legend 40QS
425HP Cummins ISL/Allison3000/Freightliner XC-R
2007 Saturn Vue RedLine
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09-14-2013, 06:22 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 664
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First, I find that some of the responses to a very good question offensive. IRV2 is a serious source for questions and help for problems that all of us face with dealing with a complex machine. Having said that, connection problems for plumbing problems are deserving of an honest answer. In those situations where I have had to repair connections, I have used brass compression connectors. No plastic connectors, they tend to cross tread and leak. Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, or a good ole hardware store generally have what is needed to effect a good repair.
Regards,
JB
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09-14-2013, 08:10 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fla tom
Should be male to female threaded conection use teflon tape then put very thin coating of rectoseal and screw together
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There's a rubber cone washer in the connector DON'T use teflon tape or any other kind of thread sealant, that's what the cone is for. Tighten it all down hand tight, check for leaks, tighten only enough to stop a leak if needed.
I have been a licensed (FWIW) plumber for 35 years. Always had problems/leaks when I used pipe dope where not needed.
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09-14-2013, 08:14 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malexander
There's a rubber cone washer in the connector DON'T use teflon tape or any other kind of thread sealant, that's what the cone is for. Tighten it all down hand tight, check for leaks, tighten only enough to stop a leak if needed.
I have been a licensed (FWIW) plumber for 35 years. Always had problems/leaks when I used pipe dope where not needed. 
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This right here.
Always replace the $.50 cone seals each time. They are there to be used instead of teflon tape.
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09-14-2013, 08:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 567
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I reused the rubber cone seal from old faucet line, but will be looking for some new ones.
__________________
2010 Dutch Star 4333
2009 Honda Accord- Brakemaster
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09-14-2013, 08:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 611
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Ours had all the connections, seals, etc. in the package with the new faucet. Didn't have to buy anything extra.
__________________
Don (RVM19) & Mary,
Furry friends Sophia & Zander
2006 Coachmen Freedom 289QB | 2004 Jeep
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not so sure..
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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09-15-2013, 06:59 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
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New seals
I found that the new seals were already installed in the connector. Screwed it in and everything seems to be perfect. But I'm not going to re-install the mirror for a couple of days just to make sure there are no leaks.
FYI: I did not find the answers disrespectful at all. I enjoyed them. As I tell my wife: it's a guy thing.
I wonder if the plastic connectors might actually be better in a motor coach. More flexible and forgiving At any rate that's only part I could find and install in the few days we're home this month. The faucet was 7 years old and still working OK right up to the minute I tried to improve the flow rate with a drill bit. (Maybe I should post this over in the 'dumb things you've done' thread?)
Thanks all!
Muddypaws
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