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steamyb · 06-10-2016, 06:52 AM

OK- so my 'New' battery is going back for a physical!
I did find several phantom draws:
The LP Sensor I replaced with a LP/CO Sensor is wired straight to the batteries according to the paperwork with the sensor- so that's a draw. No way to change this for safety reasons. I also wired in a 5 amp fuse per the instructions with the sensor.
My Wi-Fi Router is on 24/7- so that's a draw. Easy fix- I'll just unplug the router when I'm not watching the TV. I just hope my cell phones work without this Wi-Fi- we will see.
I also have a cordless Dyson that charges when hanging on the wall. I can unplug the thing when I park, I usually only use it once a week or as needed anyway. But the RV is only 30' and takes about 10 minutes to vacuum the whole thing, much better than the house (why did we buy into the bigger is better BS in the first place?).
I know the 2 Flat screens run in the background (even when off- they maintain your settings), but I really don't want to start from scratch every time 'The Price Is Right' comes on!
I still have no hot water, that Atwood On-Demand Water Heater has been to 2 different shops/dealers and still no hot water. I'm ready to toss that POS and get a 6 Gallon (what I removed because the previous owner had cut the wires to the electric side and the wife said she wanted a LOT of hot water. Well, now she has no hot water so a lesson in learning to be content with what you have, maybe?).
Any other ideas of phantom draws I may have missed? I wanted to put disconnects on the batteries, but that eliminates the LP/CO detector. I may end up putting solar panels on the roof just to keep the batteries charged.
I've had this RV over a year (just paid insurance and tags again), and have slept in it less than a week. So retirement has become RV 101 and I'm working harder now than I did on my old job. Damn! I sure miss the Holiday Inn! Any help on phantom draws will be appreciated. Thanks!

nothermark · 06-10-2016, 07:33 AM

FWIW - I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish. If you are not living in the unit the detectors really do not matter. You can shut them down when in storage. OTOH the battery will still drain due to internal resistance paths that cannot be controlled. That is why a few amps of maintenance charge with a diode splitter to feed both battery systems is probably the best for storage without power.

steamyb · 06-10-2016, 08:27 AM

Yea, well the goal is to downsize and eventually full-time in an RV, just probably not this one. I'm kind of thinking that the disconnects and turning off the LP would work between trips. Now, I'm just trying to see if my wife and I can actually live together in a smaller space. We started out 40+ years ago in a lot less room, but people change over the years. So, if I can get this thing working, we could find out if it's an option. I do not want to downsize into an apartment, that's for sure!
So you are thinking a 'trickle charger' hooked to all the batteries would be the easiest solution? I'm OK with that, these dealers/shops will eat you alive! For some reason they think a '98 model Flair = BIG $? Go figure! I bought this RV as a test unit to see if this is better than the old folks home. I'm not ready for a rocking chair, yet!
Thanks for saving me some $, everyone else has their hand out!

nothermark · 06-11-2016, 07:17 AM

FWIW I think 30 ft is about the minimum for two people. That usually gives two separate spaces for a little separateness.

I have been looking at this:

Off-Grid 100 Watt 12 Volt Solar Starter Kit

It has all the aspects of something bigger with enough power to do something for a price not much different than the basic chargers. It will be more than adequate in storage and help a bit in the mean time. It will also let you explore solar so you understand it better when you go to a new bigger system on the next one. IMHO, YMMV ;-)