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Old 02-04-2011, 03:28 PM   #1
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Propane system on 83 Pace Arrow

I have all but resigned to the idea that I will either have to replace the entire system with a Safe-T-Alert with valve control system or merely remove the valve from the system and install a basic propane alert.

I have one last question. When I tested all wires leading into the detector, the 2 reds, the yellow and the black all lit my test lamp. so should all wires have voltage, being one of them should be the solenoid ground?
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:44 PM   #2
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When I had to repair my system I got my parts here:
benlo rv in Irwindale, CA - Bing Local
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:22 PM   #3
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I think the detector merely completes the valve circuit through the black & yellow wires. As long as the detector is not alarming, the circuit is closed and the gas valve stays open. The two red wires are the 12v sources for the detector itself, one from the house battery and one from the chassis battery (it stays alive on either source).

Removing the existing valve is easy enough, but finding something to fill in the gap may take some creativity. Typically the RV gas plumbing does not have enough slack to simply pull the two ends close together and reconnect with a union, but you might get lucky. If not, see an LP gas supply shop or a good hardware store for a suitable piece to fill in. Just make sure you get parts rated for use on gas lines. You can do it yourself - this is not rocket science. It's after the regulator, so very low pressure.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
I think the detector merely completes the valve circuit through the black & yellow wires. As long as the detector is not alarming, the circuit is closed and the gas valve stays open. The two red wires are the 12v sources for the detector itself, one from the house battery and one from the chassis battery (it stays alive on either source).

Removing the existing valve is easy enough, but finding something to fill in the gap may take some creativity. Typically the RV gas plumbing does not have enough slack to simply pull the two ends close together and reconnect with a union, but you might get lucky. If not, see an LP gas supply shop or a good hardware store for a suitable piece to fill in. Just make sure you get parts rated for use on gas lines. You can do it yourself - this is not rocket science. It's after the regulator, so very low pressure.
Well after everything said and down, I will try and trouble shoot it one more time, but I have little doubt it is toast, and base on what I have discovered being the solenoid is 9 volt to open and 1.5 to keep it open using a switch will only burn the solenoid, causing a new problem, so I all but decided to remove that valve and add that section of flange to replace, it, I have no plan on running the propane at anytime except while camping, so I am not worried about the safety factor, all of my travel travels are the same way and I have yet to have any problem with that, but I will install in it's place the best propane detector available to protect us in case there is a leak, I have also considered adding a valve I can turn off inside, but I wont worry about that until I am able to see if I can pull new pipe to the interior.

Can anyone tell me the name and size of the flange that I will need to insert where the valve was?
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:25 PM   #5
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Are these the parts you are looking for?

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Old 02-05-2011, 04:28 PM   #6
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Are these the parts you are looking for?
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/HP_Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/HP_Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.png[/IMG]
J

Sorry the link failed can you please try again?
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #7
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Sorry about that, look at post #5.
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:38 PM   #8
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Sorry about that, look at post #5.
J
Yes that looks correct, in regard to a full replacement, but I may be just removing that valve to allow the LP constant flow once the valve is on, it seems as if the cost to replace far exceed the safety issues, unless yo are of another opinion I wold welcome your input
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Old 02-05-2011, 04:49 PM   #9
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Yes that looks correct, in regard to a full replacement, but I may be just removing that valve to allow the LP constant flow once the valve is on, it seems as if the cost to replace far exceed the safety issues, unless yo are of another opinion I wold welcome your input
I paid $40.00 for the valve about six years ago. I had one go out on my '84 Pace Arrow. The first thing I did was to by-pass the valve with a straight pipe from Home Depot. When I found the valve that I needed I replaced the pipe. At the time I bought two valves, one for a spare. The valve is made by Goyen Controls, I got it at Benlo's in Irwindale, CA. The straight pipe never caused any problems, I just wanted it back like the factory built it.
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Old 02-05-2011, 05:22 PM   #10
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does the propane leak detector only run off the rv batteries or is it suppose to work while on shore power? The regulator and connectors are not on my 84 tank and there are loose wires hanging at the tank.
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Old 02-05-2011, 05:28 PM   #11
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does the propane leak detector only run off the rv batteries or is it suppose to work while on shore power? The regulator and connectors are not on my 84 tank and there are loose wires hanging at the tank.
The system runs on 12 volts, your converter provides 12 volts when you are on shore power in addition to keeping your batteries up. The detector will chirp when your batteries are low.
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Old 02-05-2011, 05:55 PM   #12
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I paid $40.00 for the valve about six years ago. I had one go out on my '84 Pace Arrow. The first thing I did was to by-pass the valve with a straight pipe from Home Depot. When I found the valve that I needed I replaced the pipe. At the time I bought two valves, one for a spare. The valve is made by Goyen Controls, I got it at Benlo's in Irwindale, CA. The straight pipe never caused any problems, I just wanted it back like the factory built it.
J
I may end up going that route also, I just do not want to deal with it right now, and I thought down the line when I had more money and time I may go back to that system, I found the parts much cheaper on line but it was my opinion if I had the parts installed by others, they would not guarantee them unless they provided them, I looked at that valve today and thought if I could find that flange I would do that myself, and then deal with the problem down the line when and if I decided I wanted the added safety. Right now I just want it to work.

thanks for your feedbackl
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