Community Forums

knoby129 · 01-18-2014, 09:21 PM

I found a receipt from the previous owner and the fridge was replaced Jun 2012. Here are the details for the fridge.

Mr_D · 01-18-2014, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritz

Rubbing or Scotch

I am going to try this next spring. Thanks for the tip.
tb

Rubbing for the jet, scotch for you while you wait!

knoby129 · 01-18-2014, 10:16 PM

I found an online manual for the fridge. There is a section that includes maintenance and service. Looks like compressed air is OK. Here are their instructions.

...
- Remove burner jet, but first, clean burner area of soot and scale that fell out of flue tube.
- Remove the burner jet.
- soak the jet in wood alcohol and blow it out with compressed air.
- Reinstall and tighten the burner jet.

jesilvas · 01-19-2014, 02:30 PM

Compressed air is 100% contradictory to their training class. They need to get their stuff straight.
The reason it's not ok in my mind is there is a synthetic ruby, laser cut into a twisting, star shape to mix with air better.

knoby129 · 01-20-2014, 11:30 AM

I even tested the fuses

Testing fuses Page

I am going to order a new board this week. Hopefully that will fix the problem...

knoby129 · 01-20-2014, 11:32 AM

I found this site which has an explanation regarding how to clean the brass fitting. They recommend air.

Gas orifice information page

JC2 · 01-20-2014, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knoby129

I even tested the fuses

Testing fuses Page

I am going to order a new board this week. Hopefully that will fix the problem...

Going with a Dinosaur board instead of an OEM board is and excellent choice.

knoby129 · 01-20-2014, 02:41 PM

I called Dometic support today to verify which board to order based on the fridge I have in the RV. The fridge was replaced by the previous owner. I provided the numbers from my fridge i.e. model number etc.. And they told me I need the following board / part # 3850712013. The part I currently have is 385071201, without the #3 at the end. I’m not sure what changed or what’s the difference. They look the same in a picture.

I saw the Dinosaur’s boards, but opted to stick with an OEM part. I also ordered a new Electrode. The current one didn’t look bad, but a new one was cheap at $24.

RV Parts, RV Accessories RV Supplies Priced Low had a huge parts selection and it was easy to search and find what I needed.

I will see what happens when the parts arrive. The board was less than $67 and everything was $100. I figure this path is cheaper than taking into the shop, which would cost way more. Fingers crossed this will fix things.

JudyH · 01-20-2014, 02:51 PM

Does your fridge have a thermo coupler? If it does, check to make sure it is not loose, as for us, it stopped ours from lighting one time, a slight tightening fixed it right up.

sswilson · 01-20-2014, 03:04 PM

I read thru this and have a couple of questions. Did you try and light the propane with a BBQ lighter to be sure gas is getting there? If your igniter is like mine it is ceramic with the spark rod running thru the middle. I believe it does two jobs, ignites (sparks) and is a flame sensor to verify the gas is lit. Have you checked the ceramic section for cracks ( even hairline) which will affect the performance and maybe not allow ignition. I had the problem that not enough spark to light gas, found small crack, replaced igniter and problem went away. Just so you know, the whole time I could light the gas manually but when it shut off and needed to start again--failure.

Preacher Jim · 01-21-2014, 06:35 AM

Our 2011 Bounder had a similar problem. Refrig worked fine while side was out. On electric or propane but head down the road with everything closed up and it would not work. Took unit to Camping World in mid-Ohio. They found a place in the hose that pinched closed when the left side slide-out was closed. They replaced a section of the propane line and some fittings. Has worked fine ever since. Hope this helps, Jim

knoby129 · 01-21-2014, 06:07 PM

Good suggestion regarding trying to ignite with lighter. Gas is making it out the brass fitting and lit with a lighter. I already ordered a new electrode and will replace this ahead of the board to try and isolate what part was not working.

sswilson · 01-21-2014, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knoby129

Good suggestion regarding trying to ignite with lighter. Gas is making it out the brass fitting and lit with a lighter. I already ordered a new electrode and will replace this ahead of the board to try and isolate what part was not working.

Good, glad to hear. I hope it is just a crack in the ceramic as it is a cheaper part than the board. When you replace it, make sure you set the distance correctly for proper spark.

Lobstah · 01-25-2014, 03:07 AM

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the ignition sequence you described.
That seems to be the way our Dometic works, which is very different from the water heater.
It clicks...then waits, then clicks again, then waits. Never timed it, but after a few minutes, the "check" light will come on.

If you verified that you're getting gas by lighting it with a match/lighter, then it's obviously in the ignitor circuit.

Let us know if the circuit board helps.

Jim