Bounder: Refrigerator only works while plugged in, does not work via propane.

[RVRon]

Originally Posted by Preacher Jim

Our 2011 Bounder had a similar problem. Refrig worked fine while side was out. On electric or propane but head down the road with everything closed up and it would not work. Took unit to Camping World in mid-Ohio. They found a place in the hose that pinched closed when the left side slide-out was closed. They replaced a section of the propane line and some fittings. Has worked fine ever since. Hope this helps, Jim

Same thing happened to our HR. Propane hose was kinked user the slide right where it made a 90 degree turn up into the sidewall of the slide. I ever did like the placement of the fridge in the slide. Fixing the hose was simple.

[JDA]

My buddy had a similar problem. As my son-in-law was probing around the back of frig, a wire to the gas valve slipped out of its connector . They crippled it back in and frig was working on propane again.

[jesilvas]

Originally Posted by Lobstah

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the ignition sequence you described.
That seems to be the way our Dometic works, which is very different from the water heater.
It clicks...then waits, then clicks again, then waits. Never timed it, but after a few minutes, the "check" light will come on.

If you verified that you're getting gas by lighting it with a match/lighter, then it's obviously in the ignitor circuit.


Let us know if the circuit board helps.

Jim

If it goes through a cycle of constant sparks, then stops and starts again, that is normal. I was thinking single tick, then wait, then single tick, and so on.

[spritz]

Sir,
If it was replaced in 2012 might it still be under warranty??? You might luck out, its worth a phone call.
tb

[wildmanbaker]

From you picture of the board, with the cover removed, it looks like you F-2 fuse (5amp) is bad. I can see a black band on the left end of the fuse.

[wa8yxm]

This applies to all DSI devices, (Direct Spark Ignition) Fridge, Water heater, and Furnace with a few changes and upgrades depending on the appliance.. For example, the furnace has a blower and sail switch to make sure it's blowing. Both it and water heater have a high temp cut out, Fridge MIGHT, depending on the fridge.

When flame is called for, the control board opens the solenoid and starts sending voltage to the spark points.

Possible issues: Low battery voltage causing weak spark (or bad electrical connections)
Bad control board
Bad solenoid valve
NO propane or propane shut off at tank (See next comment)
Bad propane regulator (Does the range work)
Points set too far apart (I have seen this on many things, Both stick and RV)
Burner Orifice Clogged (An insect loves doing this).

Assuming the flame flames...... The flame sensor heats up and sends 0.480 volts to the control board, which detects it and continues operation till it is told to stop.

Bad thermocouple
Bad wire hooking it to control board (Or bad connection)
Bad control board.

IF you narrow it down the the control board, Consider Dinosaur Boards, a 3 rd party board maker with a fantastic reputation for quality.

[knoby129]

Had time to install parts today. Here's what I found.

I replaced the circuit board first. When done, I turned on the fridge and immediately saw a change. I got a click, click, click which repeated. Before I replaced the board, I only had 1 click when the fridge was turned on.

After the board was replaced, the gas would not lite, so I pulled the ignitor and replaced. I ordered both parts a while ago and was going to replace both anyways. After I installed the new ignitor, the fridge fired right up.

So to close out this problem, I had two issues. Bad circuit board and bad ignitor.

I did try to clean the ignitor, but either didn't try hard enough or it was really bad. The tip was a bit discolored - dark grey.

So for ~$100 I have a fridge that works off propane again. Swapping out the board was a 5 minute job. I just pulled 1 wire at a time and plugged into the new board.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

[spritz]

Glad too hear you got it fixed.
Can I ask,? Mine works great on gas but not on Electric what are my options. 1982 PA I have never seen a circuit board, of course I never looked for one while investigating. I don't think there is one is there? Hoping to get it fixed
Thanks,tb

[jesilvas]

Originally Posted by spritz

Glad too hear you got it fixed.
Can I ask,? Mine works great on gas but not on Electric what are my options. 1982 PA I have never seen a circuit board, of course I never looked for one while investigating. I don't think there is one is there? Hoping to get it fixed
Thanks,tb

What is the make and model of the refr?

Your heating element may be out, the outlet to power it may be out, and other things depending on model.

[spritz]

jesilvas,
Thanks for asking its Dometic Americana
RM2214R
Model# RM100
Ser.9430114
Product #9264301
1982 model
Thanks,tb

[jesilvas]

Oh an old 100. Had one in an Airstream a couple weeks ago. IIRC it only had a t-stat, control for LP/off/elec and that was it. If that is the case, it could be either knob on the front, the heating element, outlet back there, cord, and maybe thermister.

[spritz]

Checked today and there are 3 knobs
1.for electric thermostat
2. Gas thermostat
3. Knob for electric/gas/off
Thanks for some info.

tb

[jesilvas]

Yea, the electric t-stat, temp sensor, elec/gas/off knob, heater element, or outlet at back of refr could be bad.