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Old 07-02-2015, 08:02 AM   #1
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Removing the entire dog house cover

I have a 2005 Bounder 35E. I am trying to remove my dog house engine cover. I have the carpet pulled back and the screws removed from the sides and front (back of the engine). The cover seems to be glued to the floor. Does anyone know how to break the seal? I am planning to insulate with B-Quiet. Has anyone experience cooling problems after installing this under the cover? Thank you.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:05 AM   #2
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Welcome to irv2. I had an 08 35E and it wasn't glued. Try gently tapping the seam with a screw driver.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:08 AM   #3
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Most are sealed to keep rainwater from spraying into the motorhome. A sharp knife will usualy break the seal. Make sure you reseal when going back. Soggy carpet is a bad thing.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:21 AM   #4
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Interesting. I haven't heard that before. I never had any moisture/ rain water get in.
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Most are sealed to keep rainwater from spraying into the motorhome. A sharp knife will usualy break the seal. Make sure you reseal when going back. Soggy carpet is a bad thing.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:24 AM   #5
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I did my Pace Arrow without removing the outer doghouse. I cleaned the doghouse real good Covered the engine with plastic and sprayed the doghouse with 3M high tack glue. and installed the mat. I taped all seams and the edges with aluminum tape. I used the 3M glue to help the tape hold. It has been over 7 years and everything is holding well.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:27 AM   #6
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I insulated mine with Hushmatt 2 years ago. It cuts the engine noise considerably and the doghouse is cooler. Mine has screws in the sides of the cover near the gas pedal and in the same position on the right side and all around the edge. My cover was sealed with something like black RTV on the sides and the front. I ran a small putty knife under the edges and worked it free. Mine has wood pieces between the doghouse and the floor and there is a metal shield on the drivers side. I cleaned the underside of the doghouse with mineral spirits followed by soap and water followed by alcohol. I was under the engine last week and inspected it with a light and none of the Hushmatt has come loose. A mod well worth doing.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:10 AM   #7
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Interesting. I haven't heard that before. I never had any moisture/ rain water get in.
I retired in 2005. Was called back in two days a week until 1/1/2009. We were a Fleetwood dealer. I never worked on the outer doghouse in a 2008. I don't know if yours was supposed to be sealed or not. I would think it was designed to be sealed.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I retired in 2005. Was called back in two days a week until 1/1/2009. We were a Fleetwood dealer. I never worked on the outer doghouse in a 2008. I don't know if yours was supposed to be sealed or not. I would think it was designed to be sealed.

It wouldn't be the first time something was left out of production .
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:14 AM   #9
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It wouldn't be the first time something was left out of production .
LOL That has to be the understatement of the year.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:50 PM   #10
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What's the doghouse?
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:53 PM   #11
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The engine hump between the driver and passenger seats on a gas MH.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:49 AM   #12
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Oh. Thanks. Still trying to learn stuff! LOL
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:25 AM   #13
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this is not a reply, it is me (2005 bounder 35E dog house removal. I just succeeded and I wanted to give the whole story. Screws were in haphazard locations many very hard to locate. Cheap hardware, one just stripped out and I had to drill it. The seal is nasty black stuff, I will replace with rubber. If they ever expected to have to remove the dog house (and it would seem necessary for a lot of engine maintenance) they have no respect for their owners, this is a long job. After removing screws, use a oscillating multifunction power tool from harbor freight (mine was $20 on sale) and a 1 3/8 plunge cutting blade (mine was $5 on sale) to cut through the seal. Much faster and easier than a blade. I plan to reattach mine with some socket head screws and a rubber seal. Not sure what to do about the carpet yet. Mine was attached to a bunch of pieces of carpet tack strip which was screwed separately to the floor. Again time consuming and difficult to remove. I think I will try some screws with washers or large heads. I would suggest removing and reinstalling your dog house before you need maintenance. I would hate to pay $100 to $200 per hour to have this done. I would also add significantly to your down time.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robjeff2 View Post
this is not a reply, it is me (2005 bounder 35E dog house removal. I just succeeded and I wanted to give the whole story. Screws were in haphazard locations many very hard to locate. Cheap hardware, one just stripped out and I had to drill it. The seal is nasty black stuff, I will replace with rubber. If they ever expected to have to remove the dog house (and it would seem necessary for a lot of engine maintenance) they have no respect for their owners, this is a long job. After removing screws, use a oscillating multifunction power tool from harbor freight (mine was $20 on sale) and a 1 3/8 plunge cutting blade (mine was $5 on sale) to cut through the seal. Much faster and easier than a blade. I plan to reattach mine with some socket head screws and a rubber seal. Not sure what to do about the carpet yet. Mine was attached to a bunch of pieces of carpet tack strip which was screwed separately to the floor. Again time consuming and difficult to remove. I think I will try some screws with washers or large heads. I would suggest removing and reinstalling your dog house before you need maintenance. I would hate to pay $100 to $200 per hour to have this done. I would also add significantly to your down time.
Would you happen to have some pictures? I'm struggling with the same issue, getting the main part of the doghouse off.
What year, make, model coach do you have?
Thanks, Rich
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