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Old 09-19-2022, 02:22 PM   #1
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Replacement options for Power Gear ELECTRIC Leveling Jacks

I have a 2007 Fleetwood Discovery 40X with the electric leveling legs from Power Gear. Nothing but problems with these things. (seemingly random intermittent and verified false errors). It's to the point where we cross our fingers every time we stop, and pray that it doesn't error out. It's about 50/50 success rate.
I'm done with this crappy system.
Has anyone found an replacement ELECTRICAL (non-hydraulic) system for large Class A RV's that is more robust?
My mechanic says that I may need to have the main controller board sent off to a third party electronics shop to have it rebuilt. (apparently they no longer make this controller board). Not sure I want to spend anymore money on this thing.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-19-2022, 05:50 PM   #2
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I have a 2007 Expedition 38L with the same system.... it's garbage! I've heard that a direct fit plug n play replacement controller might be out there somewhere as well as a rebuilt controller, but so far, it's been like hunting for a unicorn. I'd really like to find either.
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Old 09-19-2022, 08:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95f5334j View Post
I have a 2007 Expedition 38L with the same system.... it's garbage! I've heard that a direct fit plug n play replacement controller might be out there somewhere as well as a rebuilt controller, but so far, it's been like hunting for a unicorn. I'd really like to find either.
I have a 2008 Discovery 40x coach. As i read your concerns, it brings back nightmares.
Took it in to RV repair shop and they could not figure it out.
Took MH back to campsite and started to resolve problems.
Get all info on the system.

Let me help you find the problem.
I have not had a problem in 4 years.
It was a poor connection at the battery control location. Located on the roof of a compartment on the drivers side.
It has the control wires for the 4 jacks. The module is labeled for each jack.
- power is there on a bolt
+ power is there on a bolt
Look at each 4 wire connection where it connects to the mother board. Look to make sure that the brass wire connection (4 wire connector) is not being pushed down when trying to plug in 4 wire port to motherboard.
This system works the same everytime you push the auto level button. I think it is the front right( drivers side)
Front left
Rear left
Rear left.
If any one of these jacks go into error, the light will show you which jack is in trouble. Make note of which jack.
The system will go into alarm. Once it is in alarm, you can do a reset.
DO NOT PUSH AUTO RETRACT IF ALL JACKS ARE NOT DOWN !!!!!!!!

Now we have the easy part. Find the control panel( where all the jack are wired to)
Make a cheater cord ( 3 ft in length 2 conductor) with alligator clamps on one end, large enough to clip onto the + terminal and the - terminal. Check to make sure that all connections for the 4 jacks are solid and plugging them in does not push out the pin. Must be solid connection.
With the cheater cor attached to the battery supply, push the other end into to the connector.
Which wires, the two larges one. Should be a red and black.
Do the front left and jack will go down or up. Reverse the wires on the plug and it will reverse direction. Lower each jack in the order above. Must be down 8 to 10 inches. Move it up and down, leave down and proceed to next jack. Look for bad connection on plug. Remember the light for the jack in error mode Mine was a not so good connection on the jack plug when it connects to the control panel.
Mine would work, next time not work.
My cheater cable is still in that compartment waiting for the next time.
E-mail for other problems
Mark Barrett/ Canada
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Old 09-19-2022, 08:14 PM   #4
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If you push auto retract and one jack is not down, you will break the shear pin in the jack.
Have done this a few times, not much fun removing jack to remove motor and replace pin.
Beware, lower jacks via my other post or raise to travel.
Once you break a pin, the jack can fall down while driving. Not good.
Tie up jack if you break a pin.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketball View Post
If you push auto retract and one jack is not down, you will break the shear pin in the jack.
Have done this a few times, not much fun removing jack to remove motor and replace pin.
Beware, lower jacks via my other post or raise to travel.
Once you break a pin, the jack can fall down while driving. Not good.
Tie up jack if you break a pin.
Thanks. Yes, I am very careful to ensure that all legs are 4 to 6 inches down before I override the system and force the legs to retract. This happens often and I am now an expert at resetting the system. The sad thing is, the wife and I high-five and throw a major celebration when the legs function as they are supposed to, without errors. Rare, but it does happen from time to time.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketball View Post
I have a 2008 Discovery 40x coach. As i read your concerns, it brings back nightmares.
Took it in to RV repair shop and they could not figure it out.
Took MH back to campsite and started to resolve problems.
Get all info on the system.

Let me help you find the problem.
I have not had a problem in 4 years.
It was a poor connection at the battery control location. Located on the roof of a compartment on the drivers side.
It has the control wires for the 4 jacks. The module is labeled for each jack.
- power is there on a bolt
+ power is there on a bolt
Look at each 4 wire connection where it connects to the mother board. Look to make sure that the brass wire connection (4 wire connector) is not being pushed down when trying to plug in 4 wire port to motherboard.
This system works the same everytime you push the auto level button. I think it is the front right( drivers side)
Front left
Rear left
Rear left.
If any one of these jacks go into error, the light will show you which jack is in trouble. Make note of which jack.
The system will go into alarm. Once it is in alarm, you can do a reset.
DO NOT PUSH AUTO RETRACT IF ALL JACKS ARE NOT DOWN !!!!!!!!

Now we have the easy part. Find the control panel( where all the jack are wired to)
Make a cheater cord ( 3 ft in length 2 conductor) with alligator clamps on one end, large enough to clip onto the + terminal and the - terminal. Check to make sure that all connections for the 4 jacks are solid and plugging them in does not push out the pin. Must be solid connection.
With the cheater cor attached to the battery supply, push the other end into to the connector.
Which wires, the two larges one. Should be a red and black.
Do the front left and jack will go down or up. Reverse the wires on the plug and it will reverse direction. Lower each jack in the order above. Must be down 8 to 10 inches. Move it up and down, leave down and proceed to next jack. Look for bad connection on plug. Remember the light for the jack in error mode Mine was a not so good connection on the jack plug when it connects to the control panel.
Mine would work, next time not work.
My cheater cable is still in that compartment waiting for the next time.
E-mail for other problems
Mark Barrett/ Canada
Thank you. I need to make myself a cheater cable. My most recent symptom that has me scratching my head is this: After I successfully level the rig, I can literally sit and watch my carpenter level bubble slowly move out of level. Air is out of the bags and sitting on solid concrete. The rear legs very slowly retract a little bit and the rig goes out of level. So, then I crank the engine back up, re-level the rig, and stare at the level for a few moments, and the same thing happens. It seems that the rear legs retract a little bit when a load is on them. Not fully retract, but just enough to take the rig out of level. Strange. I wonder if this could be related to the electric motor brake that is attached to the bottom of the leg motor.
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Old 09-20-2022, 02:10 PM   #7
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Make sure the clutch brake lever is in the correct position. It is on the motor and it will move side to side. If not in the correct position it will wind down. Compare position with jacks on same side of coach.
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Old 09-20-2022, 02:14 PM   #8
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Sounds like the clutch break is in the wrong position. Move to the left or right to lock ln electric clutch break
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Old 09-20-2022, 03:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketball View Post
I have a 2008 Discovery 40x coach. As i read your concerns, it brings back nightmares.
Took it in to RV repair shop and they could not figure it out.
Took MH back to campsite and started to resolve problems.
Get all info on the system.

Let me help you find the problem.
I have not had a problem in 4 years.
It was a poor connection at the battery control location. Located on the roof of a compartment on the drivers side.
It has the control wires for the 4 jacks. The module is labeled for each jack.
- power is there on a bolt
+ power is there on a bolt
Look at each 4 wire connection where it connects to the mother board. Look to make sure that the brass wire connection (4 wire connector) is not being pushed down when trying to plug in 4 wire port to motherboard.
This system works the same everytime you push the auto level button. I think it is the front right( drivers side)
Front left
Rear left
Rear left.
If any one of these jacks go into error, the light will show you which jack is in trouble. Make note of which jack.
The system will go into alarm. Once it is in alarm, you can do a reset.
DO NOT PUSH AUTO RETRACT IF ALL JACKS ARE NOT DOWN !!!!!!!!

Now we have the easy part. Find the control panel( where all the jack are wired to)
Make a cheater cord ( 3 ft in length 2 conductor) with alligator clamps on one end, large enough to clip onto the + terminal and the - terminal. Check to make sure that all connections for the 4 jacks are solid and plugging them in does not push out the pin. Must be solid connection.
With the cheater cor attached to the battery supply, push the other end into to the connector.
Which wires, the two larges one. Should be a red and black.
Do the front left and jack will go down or up. Reverse the wires on the plug and it will reverse direction. Lower each jack in the order above. Must be down 8 to 10 inches. Move it up and down, leave down and proceed to next jack. Look for bad connection on plug. Remember the light for the jack in error mode Mine was a not so good connection on the jack plug when it connects to the control panel.
Mine would work, next time not work.
My cheater cable is still in that compartment waiting for the next time.
E-mail for other problems
Mark Barrett/ Canada
Thanks for this, I've had each jack work correctly in the past, without error lights but I'll use your information to check everything as outlined.

I was previously told it's the contacts for each button on the control panel on the inside of the coach. Just to turn the system on, I need to press the on button really, really hard! Sometimes it lights up, sometimes not. I had read somewhere that there might be an updated replacement control board as well as someone rebuilding the control boards but can't find any details on either.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:43 PM   #10
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Another point.
When i did have to take problem jack off the coach I did find a rusted clutch that was causing a problem.
Bought a new clutch and installed. The rubber boot that is supplied with the jack is a joke.
I did spray the new clutch with a oil. I used penetrant oil (just spry on top of clutch to displace water) a large hose clamp as a replacement for the cheap one that was supplied.
Just to make sure the boot did not leak water in, used electrical RUBBER(not regular black tape) to seal boot.
Once tape is on, it is water tight.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:52 PM   #11
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Make sure you clean the 2 magnetic sensors on each jack. Great resource at Lippert Jacks.
There has been an upgrade to the wiring harness. e-mail if require more info.
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:07 PM   #12
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My 2007 Fleetwood Expedition 38V had the same problem,,Previous owner installed a GAMA control board and remote,,, problem with controller solved, where can I send an email to with the product ID
Regards,
Ray (honeymoo)
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:13 PM   #13
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The replacement control board and remote is a GAMA RF340-4PR-ASL that’s installed in my 2007 Fleetwood Expedition 38V truly plug and play
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Old 09-27-2022, 05:09 PM   #14
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The replacement control board and remote is a GAMA RF340-4PR-ASL thatís installed in my 2007 Fleetwood Expedition 38V truly plug and play
Thank you. That may be an option. I'm confused that the 4 motor controller connections are only 2 wire connections. The stock controller has 4 wires per motor (2 for power and 2 for upper/lower travel limit safety sensors). This controller obviously just drives the motors up or down as pressed by the user. Is there any connection for the safety sensors, or are you just very careful when raising and lower the legs so that you don't move the legs too far and shear off drive motor pins? I'm guessing that there is also no safety interlock that would raise the legs when the rig is put into drive with legs down? Is that correct?
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