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Old 04-02-2015, 02:52 PM   #15
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Gee, I feel better. I did not know I had a classic....but I love it and it runs like a hose. No slide on this model as I was not sure they would work very well back then. However we have plenty of room with our 34J and wish they still made this model.
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Lewis View Post
Gee, I feel better. I did not know I had a classic....but I love it and it runs like a hose. No slide on this model as I was not sure they would work very well back then. However we have plenty of room with our 34J and wish they still made this model.
lol I know exactly what you mean!

With regards to the slide, its extremely picky. It works well when its warm, but it needs an alignment to seal properly when extended. Other than that, its on the same hydraulic system as the power gear levelling jacks.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:04 PM   #17
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lol I know exactly what you mean!

With regards to the slide, its extremely picky. It works well when its warm, but it needs an alignment to seal properly when extended. Other than that, its on the same hydraulic system as the power gear levelling jacks.
We bought "Hoppy" new on 12/31/98. I couldl have gotten a 34V but was unsure about the slide...heard about problems, etc. (still do on some makes) Anyway, he as served us well and has needed very little maintenance other than the usual oil changes, etc. I would buy a new one just like him if available.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #18
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With regards to the slide, its extremely picky. It works well when its warm, but it needs an alignment to seal properly when extended. Other than that, its on the same hydraulic system as the power gear leveling jacks.
Unless they made a huge change from the '97/'98 slides, and I don't think they did, they are not on the same hydraulic system as the levelers. The slide is made by Easy Glide and not by Power Gear. It should have it's own small enclosed hydraulic pump and system.

These diagrams should help understand your system.i
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:07 PM   #19
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Unless they made a huge change from the '97/'98 slides, and I don't think they did, they are not on the same hydraulic system as the levelers. The slide is made by Easy Glide and not by Power Gear. It should have it's own small enclosed hydraulic pump and system.

These diagrams should help understand your system.i

Actually, now that you mention it, that sort of does make sense. The pump on the powergear is pretty noisy, very loud. the slide is very quiet, the most you hear is basically just the flexing of the wood/frame as it pushes out. And, of course, the tirelessly awesome noise of rubber seal dragging on slide as it exits. That throat-wretching squeel rubber does. Time for disposable gloves and white grease!!
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:07 PM   #20
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Oh, while talking with Treena (wife) we discovered I overlooked a few significant expenses:

  • Bluetooth CD/MP3/SD-Card Reader In-Dash deck. $120
  • Backup-camera (listed as purchased but not accounted for) $160
  • Piles of cleaning products and pledge for wood shine/treatment. $100
  • Flush King Reverse RV Valve $50
  • Two deep cycle 120min reserve capacity batteries 12v parallel $240
  • Parallel Bridging Wires for batteries $30
  • Voltage Regulator for generator $270
  • Slip stick to clean generator slip rings $20
  • RV Antifreeze Plumbing $20
  • Seat Covers $110
  • Steering Wheel cover $20

Pickup and Delivery

We took a flight from a nearby city to Toronto, where we chartered a Towncar limo to take us to Goderich, ON where the dealer was located.
  • Gas to airport and back $60
  • Flight for 2 to Toronto $400
  • Towncar Rental $300
  • Gas to get home $600
  • Meals $130
  • Total for pickup/return trip

$16520 to date.
$1490 for pickup and delivery

$18010


Also, those looking at this project must consider that there are many other expenses which I have not logged, but are needed to consider; dishes, cutlery, pots and pans, NEW BED (Face it, do you REALLY wanna sleep in someone elses leftovers), bedding, pillows.


So far, im $18010 into this coach. Part of the reason I dont count pots/pans/cutlery/new bed etc is because we just picked up a new bed for the house, and our old one went to the rv, new pots and pans for the house, and old ones went to the rv etc.

I suppose however, that this is still a good deal, given that I know that just about everything is up-to-date for maintainence after the coils and plugs are done. (next weekend?) As an added bonus, there have been many upgrades to this unit included in that total, so I feel that i still came out on top, even though I still have a long road ahead.

Today I didnt really do much. At all. I needed a day off. I might get out there tomorrow for a bit, but I have piles of housecleaning to do first, and tonight, I have to set aside some time for my other project, a new home thermostat controlled by a credit-card sized computer, called a raspberry pi. Thats a story for another day!
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Old 04-09-2015, 01:59 PM   #21
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Yesterday, the coils and plugs arrived!!


Tomorrow, is the torque wrench.

Hopefully, early saturday afternoon the job should be started. With any luck, this job can get done in 4-5 hours. I plan on doing a complete coil dissasemble on all 10 cylinders, and then loosening all 10 plugs, leaving them half threaded until I am ready to replace the plugs. Hopefully this will limit the possibility of junk entering the cylinder.

Wish me luck!
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:39 PM   #22
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Looking good, but might want to consider using Dicor Urethane caulk and not silicone. Silicone will not adhere well and with time will loosen. Nothing else will stick to silicone, so retreatment will require complete removal of existing silicone.
You called it. First rain, I guess it hadnt fully cured yet. It ran. Today was a fun cleanup job. Bust out the rubbing alcohol and rags!



I removed the trim I 'sealed' to more efficiently clean it, and remove the silicon which penetrated down.



But, all was not lost. I sat some pieces out in the sun to dry more, and took 2 home with me for a morning prep-job. When I arrive my first item is to use the urethane caulk and seal it properly.

Then I plan on checking up on my penetrating oil I bought a can of Seafoam deep penetrating and sprayed some in there earlier. Before spraying, I inserted a blow-gun with extension to get to the bottom.

I had to remove the coils to get to this point. Here they are. Seems 2 failed at some point and were replaced, as the rest are all motorcraft. Spark plugs looked very old too. Hopefully the seafoam penetrant will loosen them up a bit.



I will seek replacement for the 3 COP screws that didnt make it out in good condition.



Thats about it for now, check back tomorrow for the result of the change!
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:31 PM   #23
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Ok. So. Its done.

So far so good!! I let the plugs sit all night, and they came right out! I was so paranoid that they were the original plugs, but thankfully it seems they had already been changed. Autolink 103 platinum x10 were installed. I installed the stock motorcraft plug, gapped at 0.054 x10, and 10x replacement coils. The engine no longer hesitates or sputters, it purrs softly and gently when idle, and roars like a feral lion when given throttle. I havent been able to take it for a test drive yet, job finished at about 1030pm. Tomorrow is another day!

Here is a shot of the engine with doghouse off



Pic of the used spark plugs. While they may not have been original, they certainly were well used. Look at the discoloration



I think the penetrating oil caused some of the tarnish, so dont focus on that.

Here is the exact process I used:
  • Cleaned engine using seafoam engine treatment vacuum method, and follows instructions accordingly.
  • I removed the engine doghouse to allow full overhead engine access
  • I disconnected then loosened the screws on the 5 coils on the passenger side, taking the bolts with me.
  • I disconnected then loosened the bolts on the last 3 on the drivers side, 2 coils were obstructed by the intake.
  • I disconnected the intake by way of loosening the screw clamp, and moved it aside.
  • Disconneced wires, Loosened last 2 coil bolts
  • Removed all 10 coils
  • Using device depicted below, I blew the cavity surrounding each spark plug with 120 psi, repeating once for caution.
  • I sprayed sea foam deep creep to help me with work of the next day. I dreamed nervous sleeps lol.





^^^Wonderful solution for cleaning deep, narrow spaces on the cheap!!^^^^

The next day!
  • Blow each spark plug hole twice again. Use a rag around the straw to catch oil backfire.
  • Loosen each spark plug slightly. (Quarter turn)
  • Blow out each plug twice more.
  • Loosen plug about 2 turns.
  • Blow out each plug twice more.
  • Remove plug, and replace with new plug (painted threads with antiseize), hand thread in until snug.
  • Repeat for each cylinder on passenger side.
  • Torque each pass side replaced plug to 120 in-lbs.
  • Replace each drivers side plug in same manner.
  • Torque each drivers side plug to 120 in-lbs.
  • Torque all plugs to 160 in-lbs.
  • Insert dielectric grease into each coil boot.
  • Install 10 coils and plug in.

At this time, I chose to to an engine test. Fired right up. No hesitation, or delay in catching. No odd sounds or shaking. Healthy engine sounding.
  • Install 10 coil bolts, also coated with anti seize (these were harder to take out than the bloody plugs were!)
  • Replace hoses on intake, and replace intake to engine.
  • Inspect, check for lost/dropped tools, dirt, debris or damage.
  • Replace doghouse.
  • Enjoy life.


April 12-13

Supplies:
Dielectric grease, antiseize, seafoam cleaner, seafoam deep creep, 3 screws, nozzle blow-gun. $50. Torque Wrench, $50.

Urethane sealant purchased, $20


Overall, a good weekend. Took on a nerve-wracking project, and came out on top!
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:48 PM   #24
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Pray tell where did you get that light bar? My disco is in need of more light!
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:02 AM   #25
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Pray tell where did you get that light bar? My disco is in need of more light!

I should have waited!


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NXL...ords=eyourlife


Its now on Amazon for cheap.
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Old 04-13-2015, 02:59 PM   #26
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I just got back from a test drive. The engine started and ran beautifully. I gave it about 10 minuntes to warm up while I secured tools and such. I noticed the difference within seconds. It has never been so smooth. I have never heard it run so queitly.

Acceleration was graceful and robust. Shifts were smooth and decisive. There was no longer any shudder in any gear. Conversations at 55mph werent quite so difficult lol.

All in all, was a worthwile cause, and so far so good!!
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:16 PM   #27
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So, I spent the weekend cleaning up the silicone leftover from that attempted seal job.

Finally got the bloody OD on/off light working! I just read the ford manual, and apparantly, engine misfiring is indicated by this light flashing, and transmission failure is indicated by this light steady on and not shifting to OD.

I opened and removed the shifter cap, switch, and receiver harness. Spliced right after the harness and extended new pigtail through hole. Spliced yet again back into the steering harness.

The wires on top are stock:



Drum Roll Please....




Hey! Look at that, it works! Good show! Finally I can have suble diagnostic messages and OD off functionality




Hopefully tomorrow I get my abs code read. After that, fix it! MAYBE then, the cruise will work!

P.S. I tested the pigtail in the steering wheel. All the buttons work as intended, and there is voltage (seems, 9/14) going though?

Switch contacts cleaned anyways.

Cleaned Hazard Light switch. For some reason it was sticking and only activating the left side. Would have to wiggle it to get it to work, until you hit a bump. Lots of contact cleaner to get it to work, and a little dielectric grease to keep it nice and debris free.

Works like a charm now.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:16 PM   #28
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Ok So here it is. Definitive proof, that contrary to whatever the air intake sticker might say, my 1999 2v v10 f53 is indeed obd2. I connected a scantool to it today. It used the obd2 protocol j1850pwm. I successfully pulled 4 codes from the engine.

p0306, p0308, p0174, which I am assuming were cylinders 6 and 8 misfiring, and then the lean mix error, this would have been fixed in the coil and plug change. The last code was p0705 which is a transmission range error (indeed caused by tire size change).

I cleared the codes.

What was odd however, is my abs light lit up after a short ride around the block. When I tried to read a code, there was none? So I guess its down to pinpoint testing?
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