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Old 04-20-2015, 01:29 PM   #29
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Speaking of OBD, you can buy a little transmitter that plugs directly into your OBD port and will transmit everything you need to an android cell phone. Costs less than twenty bucks as opposed to several hundred for a good scanner. You can use it in any OBDII equipped car, truck, or rv.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by searchinferu View Post
Speaking of OBD, you can buy a little transmitter that plugs directly into your OBD port and will transmit everything you need to an android cell phone. Costs less than twenty bucks as opposed to several hundred for a good scanner. You can use it in any OBDII equipped car, truck, or rv.

DoDoCool V1.5 Mini Bluetooth ELM327 OBDII OBD-II OBD2 Protocols Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool

Yup, Just ordered one! That was a very good tip indeed lol. Seems much more flexible and with about as much potential as an Ultraguage, without the cost. Thanks a bunch!

Unfortunately The code reader did not pull any codes for the ABS system.

The ABS light was indeed on. I cleared all the codes and the check engine light disappeared but abs light stayed on. I got no code related to abs.

Hopefully, Torque or some other app can pull the code or useful info.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:06 PM   #31
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This is above the wheel well on passenger side. The driver side is the same. I think I am going to take 5 hex head drill tip screws about 3 inches long and screw them in there about 4 inches apart. This will add some character. Alternately, i may drill a hole, run a machine screw through it, and put flat washers at each end for added strength. 5 of these each side ought to hold it?





We never used this, and had the system pressurised. I can only assume then that this was caused by the previous owner and not mentioned (and ultimately, not noticed by) to me.



^ The hot water line looks intact, and it in fact looks like it has a splice in it. from perhaps a previous repair.
When you do the repair on the wheel fender, can you post a picture? I got the same problem. I also had the same same split water pipe, it was caused by freezing. I cut off the cpvc pipe and added a flexible hose I got at lowes. Your RV is looking good.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:08 PM   #32
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When you do the repair on the wheel fender, can you post a picture? I got the same problem. I also had the same same split water pipe, it was caused by freezing. I cut off the cpvc pipe and added a flexible hose I got at lowes. Your RV is looking good.
I think I will be looking into that problem tomorrow. My plan is to remove as much corroded material as possible, then drill from the inside of the wheel well, out. The framework in there appears to be 1/4inch angle iron, roughly 3x3. I have a 4 inch bolt and nut that im going to use to guage the length of bolt I actually need (Although almost impossible, I dont need my tire or debris clinging to this bolt and speeding up corrosion.)

Once I have the proper bolt through the hole, and nut and oversize washers
started I intend to drill at least one more hole a few inches away, and insert another bolt nut and washer combination. I will tighten the one closest to the front first, as it should also help squeeze the trim for the other bolt, which was installed first, and now adding a second layer of protection.

After its done, I may review and check if its possible to perhaps cover it up with some orange marker lights or something.
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:00 AM   #33
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With a cheap scanner you will get no abs codes and probably no SRS or transmission either.
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:29 PM   #34
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With a cheap scanner you will get no abs codes and probably no SRS or transmission either.
It has rave reviews, especially when paired with Torque for android apparantly. For $9 even if it can only clear check engine codes, thats still worth it to me.

My issue now, is that after searching this forum endlessly and then crawling the web for hours, I figured the best place to start with regards to my abs problem, is the rear abs sensor. So I went and checked it out, was pretty dirty and looked weathered, so I picked up a replacement and replaced it. Unfortunately, after a 20 mile ride, the abs light came back on. So I guess its to resort to pinpoint testing at this point.

First of all, I am going to check all 4 rotors to make sure they are all shiny as they should be after my recent ride. If one is not working, it should have corrosion or whatnot on it.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:28 PM   #35
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I just took the coach home to plug in and do some testing. Was nice to see everything working right under shore power.

Unfortunately, the rear ac failed. Im still awaiting feedback on the symptoms at this point, but it seems its pretty much just dead dead. Here is the thread for the AC up to this point. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/one-r...ng-244656.html

Also when the shore water was turned on, it started pouring out of the wheel well. Slide pulled out and opened the bottom-most access hatch in front of/under the bathtub. A pipe seems to have let go from a T (3-way) split. Turns out, it was the cold water line for the bathroom sink. You know, the one that has a hgue crack in it. A few towels later, at least i know which hose to replace lol.

MRT1111 For now, I put a small screw, and urethane in the wheel well and let it cure. I plan on going back and putting a large bolt in, compressing the urethane slightly and completing the seal. Once its compete I will post pics.

What a day.

On a more positive note. I sealed up some questionable dicor cracks with fresh dicor. Also washed the roof with dish soap, water, and a cotton string mop. Rinsed with water.

This weekend:
  • Look into potential for AC repair or source discount replacement
  • Inspect 4 rotors for brake wear.
  • Grease Slide Rail Teeth
  • Change alternator in the Caravan
  • Bolt wheel fenders back in
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Restoration and modernization of 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34v
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:42 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by superk View Post
...

The last code was p0705 which is a transmission range error (indeed caused by tire size change).
I had P0705 in the past on my Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36.5' 1999 on Ford F53. I am not sure but I felt that it was related to the TSB 02-11-03. Once I reset the P0705 it did not come back before a few months. So just resetting was not conclusive.

This TSB states "some vehicles may exhibit an erratic transmission 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshift or may start out in 2nd gear. This may be caused by a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) module that is contaminated with engine electrical noise from the engine wiring harness on the ground circuit. A vehicle speed input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may be noticed when using a New Generation Star (NGS) tester to monitor the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), even when the vehicle is not moving".

If you have this problem with the transmission, then you can create your own harness. The one from Ford - 1C3Z-13N850-AA- is no more availlable. I did the job and it is easy (except that you have to remove the driver seat). My transmission is incredibly perfect. It has the Transcommand Banks on it and the result is fantastic. Before that harness, my transmission was completly erractic.

Here they show how to fix it: RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Ford V-10 - Can't fix 0720 code

Another solution for this problem is to clean the ground. In fact I also spent a few hours removing and cleaning all the grounds everywhere. There are many.

Carl
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:15 PM   #37
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Ok so its been a very busy few weeks. Unfortunately I dont have any of this done by date however lots has been done!

When looking for the source of the pipe I discovered that it was already disconnected where it tees off.



Unfortunately, once the new pipe was installed and pressurized, the red hose making the seal let go. I then replaced it with a proper shark-bite fitting, and no more leaky pipes!

Here is under the cabinet where the pipe runs. The duct-work looks like it could use some sealing up.



Done! Also cleaned up that messy floor. Unfortunately the glue that had been dripped on the floor (before I bought it), would not come off.



The cabinet sealed, closed up, and all done!




It has been determined that one of the two roof AC units needs to be replaced. While I had the whole assembly NOT assembled, I figured I would do a duct-inspection.





Looks clear!

SO. Before the fancy new digital LCD systems, they used LEDs and switches. One of those switches seemingly failed (stick), and not only was it stuck, but it was also disconnected, and the wires were hidden! Found em, tested switch, and it really was dead.



OK. Switch fixed. Tested. Operational. NEEEXT!



Water heater!!! I am beginning to be annoyed with just how broken down this poor unit really was. I have a few images below of the unit, and the gas regulator and ECO. Unfortunately, the ECO on manual-light units is one-time use, no reset. I will be attending the local rv depot to see about a replacement tomorrow.





Oh, you know when you open your fridge, and it lights up and illuminates all your glorious belly-building choices?! I dont. Another neglected item.

Fixed.



So here are the numbers.
  • $50 for pex tube, and two fittings.
  • $15 for Duct tape, and a momentary rocker switch
  • $30 for Urethane tubes to re-seal parts of roof (mentioned in last post), fenders, trim, and around windows.

OK so a side note/question. Please take a look at the pic below. There is no silicone around the bathtub. Doesnt look like there ever was. Do I need to silicone this?

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:25 AM   #38
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There is a flange on the tub that runs about a inch and a half up under the wall The tub should not be sealed.It is designed that way. Do NOT seal it.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:31 AM   #39
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The light in my Fridge I think should not be replaced by a LED since the fridge use the heat of it when I set a swith to ON. Maybe the humidity control.

Carl
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:34 PM   #40
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So more updates!

The original obd2 scanner I bought on amazon did not work with my f53 chassis or my minivan, but it did work with my edge. Weird. Apparantly this is a higher quality unit (appears to be so from the internal guts)

BAFX Products® - Bluetooth OBD2 Reader for Android I already licensed torque pro for android, and will post a full review of the adapter when I get it.

I ordered these, and I plan on doing the CHF to both front and rear when I get these in.

Ford F53 Class A motorhome Rear Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings 1999 2011 | eBay

I noticed the front were already replaced with the blue poly (super surprised!)

To my broken shower head and faucet I bid you farewell. It is going to be replaced with brushed nickel pieces tomorrow after work.

AND

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/water...re-247128.html

As per this thread, the cut-off fuse in my water heater died. This sets me back for one gas control valve/thermostat.


SO. Today here is what it is
  • BAFX Tool $40
  • Gas valve $125
  • Poly Rear bushings $50
  • Shower faucet $35
  • Shower Hose $15
  • $265
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:42 PM   #41
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This is such an exciting week! Our trip is now just a month away. Home stretch, and the pressure is on. Here is what MUST still be fixed or the trip is a bust:
  • Framework under freshwater tank
  • Rear sway bar bushings
  • CHF (not really, but it goes with bushings)
  • drivers side outer sheet-metal corrosion around storage compartments. I plan to remove the corroded areas and reinstall fresh clean freshly painted metal.
  • Lubricate slide mechanism
  • top off hydraulic oils
  • inspect serpentine belt
  • Install replacement atwood water heater valve.



Ok, so not much right! Most of the list has parts already on order, or is mostly just labour work, like the sheet metals.

Here is some eye-candy of recently completed work!

Carpet Cleaning!




Check out this nasty dirty water. Cleaning all the fabrics in the coach produced over 10 of these, some even darker than this!!



Shower!

(Before)

(After)



Shower faucet access panel open



Finally got the last of the backup-camera wire tucked away neatly.

Here is how the installation looks from the inside of the bedroom closet (coach rear cap)





Here is a shot of my (lack of) sway bar bushings.



The hole I had to fill after cutting down a lilac tree, and then removing stump manually.




Check back soon for more!
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:12 PM   #42
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Not to post a review, but so far this is working great with the 1999 f53. I havent really dug deep to see all of what I can see, but at this point, this device + torque for android are providing me with realtime engine data.

Not bad for $40! Not only was it a great price, but it was shipped internationally from the USA in like 3 days, which is super impressive as normally it takes at least a week if not more. +1 to these guys.

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