Community Forums

Bob (WA0MQE) · 01-22-2010, 05:54 AM

Does anyone else have a problem with proper sealing of the outside compartments on their Fleetwood motorhome?

This has been an irritation for me from the getgo. The Kitchen slideout in particular. On my 36B Pace Arrow the compartment doors do not even come close to sealing when they are closed. There's really no adjustment either. I think Fleetwood did a very poor job when designing these door seals and latch mechanism's.

When mine are closed they are snug at the top and about half way down. But further down and all along the bottom the door is at least a 1/4" away from contacting the bulb seal. And there is no way to adjust the door to go in any further. The cheap plastic catches (which tend to break easily) latch very loosely to the metal U-shaped retainers. The least they could have done was used a better and larger seal.

I've tried all kinds of things to seal these things properly with not much luck. I've been looking for replacement rubber seals that have a larger sealing bulb and so far haven't found any.

If anyone knows of a good supplier, please let me know.

riggarob · 01-23-2010, 10:02 PM

To make my doors fit, I cut 1/8 to 1/4" out of the "U" latch, and welded it back together (painted, of course). My friend just completed a project whereby he and his wife used a 1/4, or 1/2" foam seal that they snaked thru the OEM hollow seal to help keep it's shape, and seal better. They used liquid soap to help snake it thru. Hope this helps. Email me for more specifics on either. Robbie

justimagination · 01-23-2010, 11:58 PM

Bob, since our motorhome is on the POWER PLATFORM and no slides, I don't have any problems with any of the storage bay doors not sealing. One thing I do when closing any of the doors, is I let the door down and use my calf or knee to latch each end of the door until it clicks.
If your doors are sealing except across the lower portian, do as other have mentioned ie make your present seal "fatter" by inserting a small piece of tubing such as the windshield washer hose, which can be purchased @ any parts store. If your seal is not hollow to allow this, simply put the hose behind the inside edge only with weatherstrip adhesive, to make it stand up more, hence making it seal the door better. 3M makes the best weatherstrip adhesive I've ever used, comes in black as well as yellow. Good luck and don't trust your door's to always close, use your leg as mentioned above, it works. Good luck, and happy trails to you and yours, and travel safe.
David G.

exrench · 01-24-2010, 07:17 PM

Bob, evaluate the door and frame relationship to establish the need for a thicker seal or a closer fitting door.The frame and the door should be parallel when the door is closed.My guess is you need to shorten the U shaped striker brackets as earlier mentioned.You must have a buddy with a MIG welder?!Make sure to shorten each one a bit more than necessary and then you can fine tune the adjustment with washers between the U bracket and the door frame.As David says above,a slight nudge with your calf is all it should take to close it. NEVER do as I did, once or twice,drop the basement door to close when in cold conditions as the cheap plastic lock bolts will break.I had to make some replacement slide bolts out of HDPE which should not break even if abused by dropping the door.

riggarob · 01-24-2010, 09:21 PM

The guys are right. I've been usin' the "leg shut" for the last 3 coaches. Robbie

j.smith · 02-03-2010, 07:37 AM

Bob, I also have an '03 36B with the same problem. On mine the front driver's side one has a gap when closed that you can see daylight through. When I get around to it I figure that I will modify the U brackets as described above to get the door to close completely.

Just for info, when the coach was new the dealer wanted to replace the storage compartment to fix the gap, claimed there was no way to adjust it, a complete replacement was required. Needless to say that was the last trip to that shop and gladly they were one of the casualties of the economic shake-out.

Bob (WA0MQE) · 02-03-2010, 08:06 AM

I think I've found what I've been looking for at this web site. CRL-Automotive CRL Oversize Bulb Trim Seal - Flange Size: .040 in to .070 in | 75001362 It comes in a 25-ft length for $57.00.

I received the item yesterday and after looking at it closely compared to the material and size Fleetwood used, this is going to do the trick. It' a better quality rubber and the bulb size is just bigger enough to seal properly when the door is closed. Although the bulb is bigger, (if you look at the factory one Fleetwood installed it's not even really a bulb) it is softer and seals good without causing a binding of the door. Also, I don't have to remodify the U brackets.

As I mentioned in my original post, Fleetwood just didn't do a very good job of engineering this particular area. Mine have been this way from day one. I just didn't notice it when I first bought the motorhome. Besides as you mention it's the type of fix I'd rather do myself then have some fly-by-night underpaid kid who works as a RV repairmen.

j.smith · 02-03-2010, 11:03 PM

I'll have to keep that seal in mind when I get around to fixing mine, Thanks

Bob (WA0MQE) · 02-04-2010, 02:03 PM

Finally quit raining this morning and was able to get the seal mounted on one of the doors, one more to go.

It really fits good. I had modified the brackets for the old seal, even though it still didn't do a very good job, but I removed my modifications so the brackets are back to original and the door shuts and seals perfectly.

Definitely recommend this type of repair. I'll get the other door done today or tomorrow and then I'm ordering more of the rubber seal to do the other doors. It's a little expensive by the time I get enough for all the slide out doors but I don't care.

By the way during all these torrential rains I've found quite a few leaks in the slide out storage cabinets. Most of them were due to sloppy work by Fleetwood. Meaning they never put sealer where it should have been. The rain water running down the outside sides of the slides was able to seap in behind the trim and work it's way down into the bay.

Bob (WA0MQE) · 02-09-2010, 04:37 AM

Thought I'd post a picture showing the difference of the new seal I ordered referenced in posting #7 above.

The one on the right is the original and the left is the new one. It's just a little larger and the rubber is thicker. The rubber material appears to be a much better quality also. In case anyone notices the clamping portion of the new one seems to be wider then the original, it is, but it still clamps tight and stays on without problems.

Seajay · 03-23-2010, 06:32 PM

Bob.... I bookmarked that sight you posted .. I dont need this right now but you never know about the future.
The next time I see you I will be glad to give you the customary ten cents for good information that is useful to myself.
Seajay the sailor man ....

096velasr · 04-11-2010, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE)

Does anyone else have a problem with proper sealing of the outside compartments on their Fleetwood motorhome?

This has been an irritation for me from the getgo. The Kitchen slideout in particular. On my 36B Pace Arrow the compartment doors do not even come close to sealing when they are closed. There's really no adjustment either. I think Fleetwood did a very poor job when designing these door seals and latch mechanism's.

When mine are closed they are snug at the top and about half way down. But further down and all along the bottom the door is at least a 1/4" away from contacting the bulb seal. And there is no way to adjust the door to go in any further. The cheap plastic catches (which tend to break easily) latch very loosely to the metal U-shaped retainers. The least they could have done was used a better and larger seal.

I've tried all kinds of things to seal these things properly with not much luck. I've been looking for replacement rubber seals that have a larger sealing bulb and so far haven't found any.

If anyone knows of a good supplier, please let me know.

I have the newest compartment seal e-mail if you want more info.