Community Forums

twinboat · 01-02-2020, 03:51 PM

There seems to be two camps about using your leveler jacks.

Some are afraid to lift any wheel off the ground at all, because the jacks will bend and fail or somehow roll.

Others, on this post, are suggesting that owners stick boards on unstable, soft ground, under the jacks and lifting the RV with them. Then stick boards under the off the ground tires and letting them down again.
If there is a recipe for damaging leveler jacks, using them to get out of the mud is it.

Treker Vic · 01-02-2020, 04:02 PM

Don't pull on the axel itself. Connect at the spring mount. That way you are pulling on the spring not the axle. Just connect so the line doesn't contact the body.
It doesn't take much pull as long as you are sitting on a slick surface. Also use both pulling and drive power.
Done it many times without doing any damage.
As long as the wheels can turn, it doesn't take much to roll it out.

CJ7365 · 01-02-2020, 04:06 PM

Im not following all this towing from the front, spring hangers, axle beam etc...

No one is addressing how to keep the chain/strap from damaging the fiberglass front cap on the bottom, most front end caps are lower than the axle beam.

Obviously if the axle beam is high than the lower portion of the front cap, when you pull this will raise the strap or chain into the bottom of the front cap damaging it.

distaff · 01-02-2020, 04:07 PM

So, it is your motorhome and your wallet. Mr D has a cautionary tale if you pay attention to it. Twinboat isn't wrong, except that all those forces are pushing the axle to the rear, and you plan to pull it to the front.

A good heavy tow operator will try to lift it from the wheel and try to block it so it isn't burried, and then grab the frame.

igave · 01-02-2020, 04:15 PM

Guys,
Check post 33. He is out and moved on.

Leith · 01-02-2020, 04:23 PM

This issue can get real expensive very quick ! I’d try to lift with leveling jacks add put some gravel or plywood or some traction medium under tires ! My cousins gas Bounders front end came out when attacked too to tow so if you have too pull try Y chain hook up to frame but be very careful that lift angel doesn’t contact any plastic parts ! Pull low and slow ! Good luck !

Jay Pat · 01-02-2020, 04:27 PM

I would purchase a couple (at least) bags of regular lime from the big box store.
Open bag and spread the lime liberally on the drive tires and the path forward to the pavement.
Drive out slowly.
If still slick, apply more lime.

I do like the rope idea.
Maybe lime and rope.

Lime was used by ready mix concrete company I used to work for.

Davemik · 01-02-2020, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winniman

Put some blocks under your leveling jacks, and lift the wheels enough to put some good traction aids under the wheels. Do front and back separately if reqd. I wouldn't pull on the front axle if it were me. My mechanic told me to never do that. Good luck.

This is the ONLY way that worked for me. I went so far as to wrap a half inch cable around a tree, use 3 trucker's chains and a come along to try to move it. Broke both a 3 and a 6 ton come along. The MH did not budge. Then I got a brainstorm. I bought 2 sheets of half inch plywood and cut them into quarters. Using the leveling jacks (with plenty of large blocks to spread out the load) I put a sheet of plywood under the 2 front and 2 rear drive wheels. After that I just drove it 4 feet forward, threw the next 2 by 4 foot piece in front of each wheel, drive it 4 feet, move plywood to the front, rinse and repeat. Drove it 140 feet through the mud this way.

willbush · 01-02-2020, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulT1

Anyone know if I can wrap a chain around the front "I beam", to help pull a 34' Bounder out of some mud?
It's not real deep, just slick stuff and gotta go uphill a tiny bit. Just 20 feet will get me on concrete.
Thanks

Why don't you just put supports under jacks, lift up MH then place planks if you have access to them to drive out;I have done this.

Radicaltimes · 01-02-2020, 04:34 PM

I was stuck up to the pumpkin on the rear axle in sugar sand. I used my leveling jacks to raise the back up and put boards under the rear tires, I also had to put wood under my jacks, easy and cheap with no damage.

BSHGTO · 01-02-2020, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by igave

Guys,
Check post 33. He is out and moved on.

I don`t think they heard you................

Kountry_star · 01-02-2020, 05:37 PM

He's already in the next state (Post 33). Lots of good and questionable advice. Should only tow from manufacture approved points. They built it they (should) know best.

Grandpa5x · 01-02-2020, 05:47 PM

Best place is front axel

Mr_D · 01-02-2020, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Pulling on the axle won't hurt it or the mounts. It has brakes that stop about 50% of the weight of the RV when stopping.

Imagine the shock loads of the front axle mounts with the brakes cycling in antilock mode.

If It doesn't rip out then, its not going to rip out with a pull out of the mud. If it needed to be towed 100 miles, they would grab it by the front axle and go.

Just watch the tie rod. They bend easy.

Wrong for my rig. The shop found that a mount for an assembly was pulled out of shape and allowed that assembly to drop out of place. They're going to weld a plate on and use a longer 3/4" hardened bolt. This is a Rayco-Granning dual steering box 20,000# axle so it's a pretty strong unit.