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Old 09-19-2021, 10:18 AM   #1
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Sharp Carousel Microwave Does Nothing

My Micro won't do anything. No lights, no fan, no nothing. I know it's probably a fuse or something stupid like that. But is it worth fixing? It's a 1996 Sharp Carousel Convection Microwave, model R-1830B. I've never opened a microwave and have no idea where to start on it. Has anyone ever tore into one of these units. I prefer to buy new but if it's a cheap fix on this one-why not? It looks as though it was a good unit at one time.
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Old 09-19-2021, 11:51 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompands View Post
My Micro won't do anything. No lights, no fan, no nothing. I know it's probably a fuse or something stupid like that. But is it worth fixing? It's a 1996 Sharp Carousel Convection Microwave, model R-1830B. I've never opened a microwave and have no idea where to start on it. Has anyone ever tore into one of these units. I prefer to buy new but if it's a cheap fix on this one-why not? It looks as though it was a good unit at one time.
A Sharp Carousel runs on 120v only. Nothing in it uses 12v for anything. First thing is to find out if the outlet it is plugged into has power. Iíve never seen one hardwired in. Somewhere close to it it is plugged in.

First find the outlet. Test it for power. No power? Take an extension cord and plug the microwave into a known good power source? If the microwave lights up, the problem is in the circuit to the outlet. If the outlet shows good, but the microwave does not on known good power, it is likely the control board. They can be fixed, but if it is original to that coach probably not worth it.

An exact replacement can still be purchased. Although it will be a new, upgraded model, it fits and mounts just like the original.

Donít know if you know how they mount, but if not Iíll save you the struggle. On the bottom of the unit are to vent screens. Take them out. There will be two bolts. Iíd say 15Ē long. Just unbolt them and the unit will be loose. You just lift it 1/2 inch, pull it forward and drop it down. Yes. It is a two person job.

A new one is over $500. Can you buy cheaper? Yes, but a good convection/microwave of any brand is over $300. Youíll have to remodel mounting hardware we and it wonít fit the opening. You may have more trouble down the road if not mounted properly. Falling out while traveling is not something you want to experience.

If it works but not getting power, you need to find out what is wrong with the circuit. Is the breaker tripped? Is there power to the output of the breaker. They do fail. Is the outlet failed. RV outlets are different than home outlets. They also fail.

Usually the microwave is on a circuit all by itself. But not always. If any other outlets donít work, you need to check that circuit completely. GFCI? They fail too.
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Old 09-19-2021, 01:27 PM   #3
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A Sharp Carousel runs on 120v only. Nothing in it uses 12v for anything. First thing is to find out if the outlet it is plugged into has power. I’ve never seen one hardwired in. Somewhere close to it it is plugged in.

First find the outlet. Test it for power. No power? Take an extension cord and plug the microwave into a known good power source? If the microwave lights up, the problem is in the circuit to the outlet. If the outlet shows good, but the microwave does not on known good power, it is likely the control board. They can be fixed, but if it is original to that coach probably not worth it.

An exact replacement can still be purchased. Although it will be a new, upgraded model, it fits and mounts just like the original.

Don’t know if you know how they mount, but if not I’ll save you the struggle. On the bottom of the unit are to vent screens. Take them out. There will be two bolts. I’d say 15” long. Just unbolt them and the unit will be loose. You just lift it 1/2 inch, pull it forward and drop it down. Yes. It is a two person job.

A new one is over $500. Can you buy cheaper? Yes, but a good convection/microwave of any brand is over $300. You’ll have to remodel mounting hardware we and it won’t fit the opening. You may have more trouble down the road if not mounted properly. Falling out while traveling is not something you want to experience.

If it works but not getting power, you need to find out what is wrong with the circuit. Is the breaker tripped? Is there power to the output of the breaker. They do fail. Is the outlet failed. RV outlets are different than home outlets. They also fail.

Usually the microwave is on a circuit all by itself. But not always. If any other outlets don’t work, you need to check that circuit completely. GFCI? They fail too.
Thats the first thing I checked. I do have power at the outlet-120v. I started digging into it and found a blown 20amp fuse-replaced it and still no power to MW. The mounting bolts for this one are not on the bottom. It has 2 big brackets on top and 2 bolts go down thru the bracket holding the MW up. Gonna keep looking.
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Old 09-19-2021, 01:43 PM   #4
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Microwaves have several micro switches inside that must be good for the power to make it to the mag. Safety switches for the door. They can be easily checked to see if continuity is good. Also the slob blow fuse (sounds like you already found that). Good luck.
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Old 09-19-2021, 03:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by tompands View Post
Thats the first thing I checked. I do have power at the outlet-120v. I started digging into it and found a blown 20amp fuse-replaced it and still no power to MW. The mounting bolts for this one are not on the bottom. It has 2 big brackets on top and 2 bolts go down thru the bracket holding the MW up. Gonna keep looking.
The old Sharp microwaves had bolts through the top AND the long bolts the other person was talking about, that you unscrew from under the grease filters. The long screws are actually meant to temporarily hold it up in place until you get the other two bolts into the top. I would never trust it with only those long bolts from underneath holding it up, you must have the bolts in through the top as well. I didn't think they made that type anymore, I thought Sharp changed their mounting system a number of years ago, but I could be wrong. I just remember installing them was a PITA compared to other brands.

By the way if you start digging inside the control area, be careful. There are some capacitors in there that can hold a good charge of electricity. People have been killed working on microwaves when they didn't discharge a large capacitor.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:21 PM   #6
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The old Sharp microwaves had bolts through the top AND the long bolts the other person was talking about, that you unscrew from under the grease filters. The long screws are actually meant to temporarily hold it up in place until you get the other two bolts into the top. I would never trust it with only those long bolts from underneath holding it up, you must have the bolts in through the top as well. I didn't think they made that type anymore, I thought Sharp changed their mounting system a number of years ago, but I could be wrong. I just remember installing them was a PITA compared to other brands.

By the way if you start digging inside the control area, be careful. There are some capacitors in there that can hold a good charge of electricity. People have been killed working on microwaves when they didn't discharge a large capacitor.
Any bolts that come down from the top on a Sharp Carousel Convection Microwave, model R-1830B are added by the coach manufacture. I forgot about that. I mine, of that vintage 2000 HR they had just put a angle iron bar against the top of the microwave. There was a 1 1/2 trim panel across the top. When I removed it I could get in it to remove the screws. I called sharp and asked if I could just put the screws in the new unit in the same location. They suggested not. The unit comes with a wall plate that has a 1/2 inch lip on the bottom. The long bolts from the bottom pull the unit up and back against the wall so it cannot come down in the back, and is pulled tight against the wall. I called HR and they suggested NOT putting screws in the top of the cabinet, but to use a very thick bead of construction adhesive like PL200, bolt the unit back up into place and let the adhesive cure for a couple days. They said they did that because the weight of the unit, bouncing down the road can cause the bracket to bend and the microwave to become unlevel. The went away from screwing a bracket to the top of the case and instead were now using adhesive. That's what I did and it was still in place and tight after 50,000 miles when I sold the coach.
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:44 AM   #7
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Junk.........

After the wife and I , started getting into removing the old micro, we decided to just get a new unit. The old unit had 2 screws coming down from the top cabinet. Then it had 2 thumb screws under the bottom back that held 2 sliding flat pieces of steel. They go up the back of the micro and lock into a wedge at the top back of micro. Pretty easy install/removal process except for the fact that after micro was originally installed, Fleetwood decided to install mirrors all around the stovetop right under the micro. Which gave me an interference of 1/4" on the right side and rear. Could not drop it straight down. I had to bend the rear lower channel down and slide it straight out. OR, remove the mirrors. I chose to bend.

We looked at new micro's online last night, and we are going with a regular micro for replacement, we dont need a convection micro, like was in there. The crazy thing I found was that fleetwood riveted the microwave bracket to the wall with stainless steel rivet's. 9 in each side. Why do you think they did that? The steel micro brackets with 9 rivets on each side into 1/4 plywood? More stable then screws? I don't know......just kinda caught me thinking for a moment.
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by tap4154 View Post
The old Sharp microwaves had bolts through the top AND the long bolts the other person was talking about, that you unscrew from under the grease filters. The long screws are actually meant to temporarily hold it up in place until you get the other two bolts into the top. I would never trust it with only those long bolts from underneath holding it up, you must have the bolts in through the top as well. I didn't think they made that type anymore, I thought Sharp changed their mounting system a number of years ago, but I could be wrong. I just remember installing them was a PITA compared to other brands.

By the way if you start digging inside the control area, be careful. There are some capacitors in there that can hold a good charge of electricity. People have been killed working on microwaves when they didn't discharge a large capacitor.
"People have been killed".......now you tell me LOL
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Old 09-20-2021, 10:29 AM   #9
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I also had a failure of my Sharp Microwave/Convection oven. Failure was the microprocessor on the control board. There are no replacement parts. Replaced it with a Contoure unit from rvpartscountry.com. Fast delivery and a good price. With trim kit was about $550. Installs nice and works great.
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Old 09-20-2021, 10:37 AM   #10
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On our newer model Sharp Carousel, it was the fuse (which you found), and the hi voltage capacitor that was shot.
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:04 AM   #11
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"People have been killed".......now you tell me LOL
Hey, at least I told you. Normally what's behind the control plate should not be dangerous, but I would still be careful. It's mainly a high-voltage capacitor behind that that can hold a deadly charge. I work on guitar amplifiers too, and they can hold a deadly charge as well, though most of them self drain after a few minutes. But I always put a meter on them to make sure, and there's an easy way to drain the voltage if you know what you're doing. People that work on these have a rule that you only put one hand in at a time. If you get high voltage running across both hands, that's when you can stop your heart.
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Old 09-28-2021, 11:20 PM   #12
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Reading one of the above posts it seemed a little misleading. The door safety micro switches that are inside the microwave do not close when you shut the door and allow power to flow through them to power anything in the microwave. One is Normally Open and closes when you shut he door. If it fails, microwave wonít operate because ďthe door is openĒ. The other (sometimes 2) is Normally Closed and opens the circuit when you shut the door. If it fails it will blow an internal fuse (by design) and the microwave is dead until the fuse is replaced. If you replace the fuse and not the switch it will just keep burning fuses. Switches are like $4 on Amazong.
Other poster was right. Stay the hell away from capacitors and the magnetron. They will light you up and knock you down.
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Old 09-29-2021, 09:15 AM   #13
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FYI Microwave

Hello 895Guy, I plugged into a 50amp outlet at a campground and my microwave would not run. It turned out that the campground pedestal was wired wrong and I was only getting one leg of the 50amps. After checking I noticed only half of the lights worked also. If its not the campground perhaps your 50amp plug has burned a wire or some such. Try running it on your generator.
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Old 09-30-2021, 03:37 AM   #14
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Tompands,

I agree with what others have said.

IMHO....if it is a 1996 model unit and it is not related to an electrical anomoly with your coach, donate it to the underwater reef program and replace it with a new one.
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