Community Forums

stormy2000 · 07-31-2017, 06:48 PM

hello,

The hot water side in the shower is very slow, dribbles out, the cold water side is good. Every facet (kitchen, bathroom, exterior), is good on hot and cold.

I end up running cold water for a bit thinking might be pressure, and then slowly press hot water facet in a bit and turn it on. You can see the water volume changes and goes up.

After a bit, the hot water slowly stops and I have to re-do the process again.

Any tips/hints on what to check? Looked at maybe changing the base where the shower hose connects to but from the way it looks glued on to the wall, I would hate to pull and crack the shower walls.

thanks in advance.

bill

z3406 · 07-31-2017, 08:08 PM

What kind of coach? City water pressure or off the water pump? Are the water faucets in the utility compartment outside both turned off, the water can back flow if they are both on.

Waiter21 · 08-01-2017, 07:41 AM

Its probably the shower faucet. If it was all the hot water, I'd say it was the backflow valve on the HW heater.

On mine, there is a back-flow preventer valve on the HW heaters HOT water side. Its main job is to prevent water from entering the HW heater when the HW heater bypass valve is closed for winterization.

This valve is probably causing your problem (very common problem) You have two options, depending how you winterize.

1) completely remove the valve.

2) replace the valve with a regular ole turn knob ball valve.

Mine hasn't went bad yet, but its on my list of things to do. I'll replace the back-flow valve with a regular valve. Then I can either leave it open all the time, or turn it off when I turn the winter bypass valve on.

stormy2000 · 08-02-2017, 12:48 AM

its a 2014 fleetwood bounder 35K, we are full time using city water at our home base campground. PSI 40, we have the adapter with mon valve so it shows 40. I heard that if the exterior valves are on, it can slow the water inside the coach, so checked and they are off.
it was working good then just couple weeks ago this started. The way it is mounted in the shower, it doesn't look like it can just come off, don't know if it would damage the wall it is connected too.

LETMGROW · 08-02-2017, 04:28 AM

Try disconnecting the city water, disconnect the inlet line to the 12V. water pump and put the line into a bottle of C.L.R. cleaner. Turn the pump on and run the faucet until you see clear cleaner coming out of the faucet. Shut the system down and sit back for a few minutes and let the cleaner do it's job. During this time you could hook the water back up to it's normal state.
You may have a lime buildup restricting the water flow.
Do you have a filter on the inlet of the city water connection?
Lynn

Al n Cindy · 08-02-2017, 09:04 AM

Some shower faucets have a screen filter before or after the hose. Unscrew and check whether it may have junk in it.

Have you tried removing the shower head and running the hot water? Still slow? Remove the hose and do the same thing. Still slow? If so, the problem has to be in the faucet itself or (unlikely, but I've heard of it) a kink in the PEX line before the faucet. CLR may be the solution.

Normally I'd offer other suggestions, but since you indicate the problem is on city water (not tank or pump) and because the other faucets have adequate pressure, the problem must be at the faucet.

stormy2000 · 08-04-2017, 01:05 AM

haven't tried removing shower head as I wasn't sure if it would just twist off? can I remove the plex line? by twist the knob at the base where it is connected? I didn't want to break it off by twisting if it wasn't meant to be twisted.

also if I run the CLR through, then do I need to run vinegar after to clean it? would seem running CLR through the line would make it undrinkable?

thanks again,

Al n Cindy · 08-05-2017, 07:43 AM

It's been a long time since I replaced the OEM shower head, but I'm sure it's similar to the Oxygenics. The hose just unscrews from the head and the faucet.

I just re-read your original post. I'd lost track of it being just a hot water problem. The problem is almost certainly in the faucet. I'd dismantle it and check the inside of the hot water valve, if it can be disassembled. I'm sure you'll find a resolvable problem there.

I just read where someone else says that CLR may damage the finish on an RV faucet. Vinegar should achieve the same results if you need to soak parts to remove calcium and lime, so that may be a better approach.

Craig36 · 08-05-2017, 10:18 AM

Had a similar problem on my Pace Arrow. The repair shop found that a hose that moves every time the slide goes in or out had developed a kink. If cold is fine, but no pressure on hot, it is worth checking out

chuckftboy · 08-05-2017, 09:32 PM

Stormy, you seemed confused s to how to remove a shower faucet. There are stem nuts holding it on and they are accessed from behind the shower wall Most faucets have a cap in the center of the handle that needs to be removed to take the handle off so you can access the stem. The stem needs to be removed to replace the washers and O-rings inside. Do not pry on that faucet, its probably cheap plastic and will break.
Look at it closely and its easy to see what I am talking about.