Squeaky driver and passenger side dashboard "corners"

[ualdriver]

iRV2 forum brain trust-

This is my second Fleetwood RV, and the first one had the same problem.

There is an area where the dashboard generally meets the house where there is an annoying squeak while driving. In two of the pictures below, I circled the general area where the squeak is happening, but the squeak is somewhere "inside" the dash. It's happening internally somewhere where the dash meets the body on the driver's side and again on the passenger side. It's really annoying. It's particularly bad on bumpy or even slightly bumpy roads.

Has anyone else had the problem and fixed it? In the third picture, I circled where there appears to be a rows of screws that goes the length of the dash under a piece of plastic trim. I don't know how to take the dash apart, but I'm assuming I would start with that strip? I need to get that long, black plastic piece off of the dash (I'm guessing) to get to where the squeak is, but I'm not sure how to do it.

Is anyone else noticing this problem? If anyone has any ideas, that would be great.

Thanks!

[danhannah]

These plastic squeeks are really tough. I have sprayed Armor-All in the crack with some success.

I have stuffed the fuzzy half of Velcro in the crack with more success.

Good Luck! let us know what happens.

[sfergie631]

While I am not driving the same model ( 2018 Southwind) I to have an annoying dash squeak that I have yet to locate. My dash setup is a bit different but also cat figure out how to take it apart.

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by danhannah

These plastic squeeks are really tough. I have sprayed Armor-All in the crack with some success.

I have stuffed the fuzzy half of Velcro in the crack with more success.

Good Luck! let us know what happens.

Yeah, I didn't think of the armor all trick. I could give that a try. The fuzzy side of velcro won't work for me because I can't get the velcro to the place that is squeaking without taking dash pieces off : (

[ScopeGuard]

I came across the fix on this forum. The self tapping screws are too short and screw into nothing other than the trim. Remove and replace with screws 1/2” to 3/4” longer. You’ll know they are screwing in from your drill/driver. The screws tap into a square tube frame, you can see it in spots from underneath the dash. It’s all metal tubing so so won’t hit anything important. Replace them all. Re-insert trim, all quiet. Also two big gaps at each end of dash on some models that allow air in. You can close off with insulation material.

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

I came across the fix on this forum. The self tapping screws are too short and screw into nothing other than the trim. Remove and replace with screws 1/2” to 3/4” longer. You’ll know they are screwing in from your drill/driver. The screws tap into a square tube frame, you can see it in spots from underneath the dash. It’s all metal tubing so so won’t hit anything important. Replace them all. Re-insert trim, all quiet. Also two big gaps at each end of dash on some models that allow air in. You can close off with insulation material.

Which screws are you referring to?

[ScopeGuard]

I’m sorry, remove that rubber trim strip that runs the width of the dash, screws are underneath. Strip pops in and out, I’ll look for a pic.

[ScopeGuard]

the problem is the screws are too short!!

there is a 2 x 2 square tube that the screw are susposed to go into..
they are a 1/2'' short and do not screw into the beam... the pic shows the stock screw vs new longer screws,,,,


new screws need to be 1 1/4"

unbelievable how quiet and solid the dash is after this repair...

the screws just scratch along the surface and never make the pieces solid as intended...also it seals the gap and no more air leak


while in that area you will also find that the winshield a pillars have big air holes that should be sealed to stop cold/hot air from getting in[/QUOTE]

[ScopeGuard]

[RRR]

I spent the better part of a day under the dash of mine tightening loose screws, nuts, and if able put Locktite Blue on them, finding screws screwed into nothing but air, putting screws into where missing, removing dash trim and putting a few more turns on the self-tapping screws, felt pads under rubbing and squeaky trim.

It took three days to recover the body but the noise reduction was impressive.

What is amazing that they can barely tighten a #8 self-tapping screw but take and over tighten a 1/4" self-tapping one. Like the ones that hold the microwave in - ask about that joke.

[wayno347]

Ah, the beauty of Fleetwood's crap workmanship on display for all the suckers to see and experience...

In my '16 Bounder, pushed the spongy material from an under carpet floor mat into both ends where the dash meets the wall. Seems to quite things down a bit.
Also forced the material under the top dash directly over the rear view camera screen.

Still squeaking: (1) the entry door
(2) the microwave
(3) my aging knees

[RRR]

Originally Posted by wayno347

Ah, the beauty of Fleetwood's crap workmanship on display for all the suckers to see and experience...

In my '16 Bounder, pushed the spongy material from an under carpet floor mat into both ends where the dash meets the wall. Seems to quite things down a bit.
Also forced the material under the top dash directly over the rear view camera screen.

Still squeaking: (1) the entry door
(2) the microwave
(3) my aging knees

My mirco drove the DW nuts. She finally stuffed paper plates and hot pads between the cabinets on either side of it.

When I figured out why it was squeaking, rattling and rolling it was two loose 1/4' self-taping screws that were over tightened causing them to start to fall out.

Mine has an approximately 1 1/2 inch square tube mounted to the ceiling of the slide with four 1/4" self-tapping screws. From the bottom of that is a piece of thin gauge angle screwed with self-tapping screws. (The only screws in the MW mounting that are actually tight.) Then on top of the MW is another piece of thin gauge angle that is screwed into the other angle after the MW is swung up into place with two 1/4" self-tappers. They were loose allowing the oven to shake and squeak.

I was just able to get a rivnut tool in the area and get two 1/4" blind nuts installed and got bolts with Locktite Blue tightened up. Stopped the racket. Even though there was pre-drilled holes for four screws only two were installed. (Why would there be pre-drilled holes for self-tappers?)

Then last week about 30 miles from home I discovered that three of the four self-tappers that hold the Square tubing to the ceiling were pulling out. Got those replaced with 1/4" rivnuts and covered the bolts with Locltite Blue.

As far as your squeaking door have you tried lubing the striker bolt with white lithium grease? Sounds crazy but stopped mine.

Good luck on knees haven't found that cure yet.

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

the problem is the screws are too short!!

there is a 2 x 2 square tube that the screw are susposed to go into..
they are a 1/2'' short and do not screw into the beam... the pic shows the stock screw vs new longer screws,,,,


new screws need to be 1 1/4"

unbelievable how quiet and solid the dash is after this repair...

the screws just scratch along the surface and never make the pieces solid as intended...also it seals the gap and no more air leak


while in that area you will also find that the winshield a pillars have big air holes that should be sealed to stop cold/hot air from getting in

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for posting all those pictures. I'm away from my RV for the next couple of weeks so can't play with it but a few questions if you don't mind....

So you're saying that you pulled up that plastic trim, replaced all the screws with longer, self tapping screws and that stopped the squeaking that you were getting in the CORNERS of the dashboard where the dash meets the house?

Also, when you pull up that row of screws, does the dash come apart in a way where you can "get in there" under the dash and start stuffing velcro, carpet pad, whatever, into the squeaky areas?

[ScopeGuard]

If you replace the screws and they tap into to brace and tighten, you should have no squeaks. Remove and replace the screws a couple at a time, not all at once.